[tcb] Re: Timing

  • From: sammie smith <bugcollections@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2010 14:42:38 -0700 (PDT)

Will's correct, as normal.  Just make sure you use some.  I have seen some from 
people who didn't and the fiber/plastic contact on the points will wear out 
rapidly if they run dry.

--- On Sat, 10/2/10, w.wood <evil.scientist.boo@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:


From: w.wood <evil.scientist.boo@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [tcb] Re: Timing
To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Saturday, October 2, 2010, 9:01 AM



Just use any type of grease you may have.  It won't make much if a difference 
as long as its not hard as a rock.
On Oct 2, 2010 8:34 AM, "Alma Jo Barrera" <patchmongrel1@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Die Electric grease.
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Gerald Livingston" <gerald.tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Friday, October 01, 2010 11:17 PM
> Subject: [tcb] Re: Timing
> 
> 
> Question at the top --- what do you guys use for rubbing-block grease.
> Points used to come with a little tube of stuff that looked like thick
> vaseline. Now they don't.
> 
> Well,
> 
> It's an all too common VW combo-problem. Can't have *ONE* thing go
> wrong at a time. It always has to be *TWO* (or more) things that
> exacerbate the issues.
> 
> 1. I didn't ADVANCE the timing like I said, I RETARDED it. I always get
> that backwards. I had it set at TDC to get the motor to sort of
> stumblingly run. The marks on the pulley are 7.5 and 10 BTDC. I had it
> set at 10 BTDC and it wouldn't catch.
> 
> 2. After getting it back to the stuttery backfiring but idling point we
> grabbed a can of ether. Making sure all the vacuum ports had tight caps
> and the air cleaner was firmly seated we sprayed aroung the carb base
> 
> no change
> 
> then we sprayed higher around the center of the body where the throttle
> shaft and accelerator pump cover are
> 
> zoom zoom. It idled faster. Still did a lot of backfiring and
> sputtering but it definitely picked up.
> 
> So, the carb IS sucking air somewhere. I ordered a replacement today.
> 
> Then, since I knew I was going to be waiting on the carb I decided we
> should do all the other "little stuff"
> 
> Made absolutely sure I was on the compression stroke and checked the
> valves on #2 again. .006 on both. No clue why it's 20psi below the
> other 3.
> 
> Put the valve covers back on again.
> 
> Installed and gapped the new points.
> 
> Hit the starter to make sure they were set right.
> 
> Zoom Zoom. Steady idle. No backfire or stuttering. Good throttle
> response (as good as it gets with a 009). Clipped on the strobe.
> Loosened the dizzy. Made an educated guess where 27ATDC was located.
> Revved it up and set it there.
> 
> Better throttle response. Better sounding. Static is back around 10BTDC
> where it should be. I bought a protractor and paint pen so I can get a
> little more accurate later.
> 
> So, EVERYBODY was right. It was a timing/ignition problem. It was also
> a carb problem that made the timing/ignition problem *MUCH* worse than
> it should have been. The old points are pitted but not severely enough
> to cause the major backfiring and loss of power that I experienced.
> Lightly pitted points in conjunction with a mild intake leak beat me to
> death though.
> 
> I'll get my pulley marks painted and swap in the new carb when it
> arrives. Hopefully Monday. 
> 
> I really need to sit down and solder the CDI together to stop future
> point pitting.
> 
> G2
> 
> On Fri, 1 Oct 2010 00:15:26 -0500
> Gerald Livingston <gerald.tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> 
>> Wouldn't happen to have a known good single port carb I could borrow a
>> few days to verify that would you? If a known good carb solves the
>> problem I'll order a replacement Monday and return yours at T@P. I'll
>> pay for USPS express shipping so it can be here Saturday if it's
>> mailed out Friday.
>> 
>> I went ahead and replaced the points with a new set that has weld
>> bonded full face contacts as opposed to the previous set that had one
>> contact with a hole all the way through the center as a rivet point.
>> 
>> My hands are cramping up now so the guy that helps me turn wrenches is
>> going to come over in the morning so we can close it all back up.
>> While we have the plugs out I'm going to verify the TDC mark using a
>> pencil in #1 cylinder and recheck the valve lash on #2 to make sure I
>> don't have the exhaust opening to early.
>> 
>> Gerald
>> 
>> On Thu, 30 Sep 2010 19:54:36 -0700 (PDT)
>> sammie smith <bugcollections@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>> 
>> > Me thinks you are on the right track. It's the carb. Don't like
>> > the difference on that one cylinder but 130 should work just fine.
>> > Should not be causing your problem.
>> > 
>> > --- On Thu, 9/30/10, Gerald Livingston <gerald.tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> > wrote:
>> > 
>> > 
>> > From: Gerald Livingston <gerald.tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> > Subject: [tcb] Re: Timing
>> > To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> > Date: Thursday, September 30, 2010, 8:02 PM
>> > 
>> > 
>> > Cold compression
>> > 
>> > 1 -- 150
>> > 2 -- 130 (something going on here)
>> > 3 -- 155
>> > 4 -- 150
>> > 
>> > all the push rods are in the sockets. Rockers move in and out fine.
>> > 
>> > Points have a little pitting but not horrible.
>> > 
>> > On Thu, 30 Sep 2010 15:39:35 -0500
>> > Gerald Livingston <gerald.tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>> > 
>> > > Pulled the line at the carb and turned it over --- good squirt.
>> > > Filter clear.
>> > > 
>> > > G2
>> > > 
>> > > On Thu, 30 Sep 2010 15:00:12 -0500
>> > > "Denis Dodson" <coocoo@xxxxxxx> wrote:
>> > > 
>> > > > I may be an idiot to ask, but could you have crap in your fuel
>> > > > line?
>> > > > 
>> > > > -----Original Message-----
>> > > > From: tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
>> > > > On Behalf Of Gerald Livingston
>> > > > Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 12:11 PM
>> > > > To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> > > > Subject: [tcb] Re: Timing
>> > > > 
>> > > > It tries. It stutters, stumbles, backfires. 
>> > > > 
>> > > > I asked about the run-on solenoid because the original German 30
>> > > > pict-3 doesn't have one, at all. Nothing to plug.
>> > > > 
>> > > > I got it to at least start again by advancing the timing back to
>> > > > the "wrong spot" (set static at "0" -- TDC). With timing at the
>> > > > proper 10 BTDC static I couldn't get it to start at all. I still
>> > > > can't get it to idle so I can put a gun on it and time to 27 -
>> > > > 30 total advance since it has a 009 installed.
>> > > > 
>> > > > This is annoying. It ran fine for 1000 miles. That seems to be
>> > > > my personal breaking point. That's about how many miles the Raby
>> > > > motor sitting in the broken-rear-end-Rivi has on it.
>> > > > 
>> > > > G2
>> > > > 
>> > > > On Thu, 30 Sep 2010 13:02:09 -0400
>> > > > "w.wood" <evil.scientist.boo@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>> > > > 
>> > > > > Well Gerald you can use a 30/31 pict or a 34 Pict with the
>> > > > > adapter as well. From the solenoid perspective you can go to
>> > > > > Lowes and get a brass plug that will fit it in lieu of the IAC
>> > > > > solenoid. I know I have a bunch of 30s/31s and 34s but I'm not
>> > > > > in a position to lend them out right now. I travel all week
>> > > > > and my parts runner is off in the USMC, go figure.
>> > > > > 
>> > > > > Simply put however I don't believe your problem is the carb
>> > > > > from your description. if you take the screws off the top,
>> > > > > check to see if the fuel is at least 3/4 the way up the bowl.
>> > > > > You could also have a stuck needle valve that could be causing
>> > > > > either starvation or fuel puddling which will make it run like
>> > > > > crap.
>> > > > > 
>> > > > > Either way a pipe cleaner and in about 20 minutes you can go
>> > > > > through all the passages. WHen you pull the throttle lever
>> > > > > does it try to run?
>> > > > > 
>> > > > > 
>> > > > > 
>> > > > > On Thu, Sep 30, 2010 at 12:18 PM, Gerald Livingston <
>> > > > > gerald.tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>> > > > > 
>> > > > > > I found a rebuilt/rebushed 30 PICT-3 for $95+shipping. Is
>> > > > > > the lack of an idle-air cutoff solenoid going to be a
>> > > > > > problem? (My carb is a 30/31 with the solenoid hole).
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > G2
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > On Wed, 29 Sep 2010 22:57:11 -0500
>> > > > > > Gerald Livingston <gerald.tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > > > Does anyone in Central/East Texas have a known good (as in
>> > > > > > > "I just pulled this off of a motor I tuned up yesterday)
>> > > > > > > 30 PICT carb I can borrow to eliminate mine as the
>> > > > > > > problem?
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > I need you to ba able to take it to the post office
>> > > > > > > tomorrow. I will email you a prepaid USPS Express label so
>> > > > > > > I can have it here on Friday.
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > I can't justify buying a new carb just to find out if the
>> > > > > > > carb is actually the problem. I'm still bleeding money on
>> > > > > > > keeping my 18 year old fed. Thankfully, he's supposed to
>> > > > > > > start a new job tomorrow or Friday.
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > Thanks all,
>> > > > > > >
>> > > > > > > G2
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > >
>> > > > > 
>> > > > > 
>> > > > 
>> > > > 
>> > > > 
>> > 
> 
> 

Other related posts: