Will Wood wrote:
Plenty rich I'm sure.I recommend at least 55 idles on a 1600. 60s are not uncommon. There's two variations of the ICTs in terms of venturi size so I can't say exactly but the mains should be at least 130. I have 135s in my 1641 in the notch with 55 idles. I was also wondering about the "not Stock" 1600, what's the compression ratio on the engine as well?
I will say this, I've also had a couple of Gene Berg temp dipsticks that I've had to recalibrate. There's instructions that come with it that cover this procedure.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Sawyer <mechmark@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Jun 15, 2006 11:11 AM To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [tcb] Re: Technical Question - Oil and Engine Heat
I don't know what jetting he is running but I do know that they are the Weber 34 ICT's
Will Wood <evilscientistboo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: I'd also ask what carbs are you running and what was the jetting, especially the idle jet numbers for the carbs?
-----Original Message----- From: Mark Sawyer Sent: Jun 15, 2006 10:06 AM To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [tcb] Re: Technical Question - Oil and Engine Heat
Try replacing the Scat pulley with a stock one and see if it makes any difference.
Eric Woodall <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: Yeah, nothing in the fan. Scat degree pulley. All seals and tin in place. I plan on getting at least a few hundred more miles on the engine before the trip... Thanks Mark, I'll be there on the 25th.
That's right on the money. Do you have all your engine to body seals in? I know this sounds stupid but did you check the fan for a cleaning rag getting sucked in? Are you running stock pulleys or a aftermarket degree wheel? I have seen degree wheels be a little smaller and cause a heating problem because the fan is not turning fast enough. It's starting to sound like you just need to get some more miles on the engine. I will be gone this weekend, but for who ever is going to Denis's with us, I will have a tech session at my house on the 25th. (I will also be reinstalling the vanagon engine again, I hope)---mark
Eric Woodall wrote: Dizzy = 010 (mech. adv) Timing = 28 (full advance)
What distributor are you running and what is the timing set at??
Eric Woodall wrote: Deck lid is not too hot to touch, although it is pretty damn hot...
Is the deck lid to hot to touch after you have been driving for a while?? The only reliable temp guage I have ever used is one that has the sending unit in place of the cap on the pressure relief valve. ASK Imports usually has them in stock.
Eric Woodall wrote: Engine size is 1600. A very un-stock 1600. I am contemplating unhooking my berg dipstick until the engine breaks in. The damn thing is making me crazy...
New engines naturally run hot until everything breaks in. Do not run a synthetic oil until after you 2nd or 3rd oil change. If you do, the rings will never seat properly. I forget what size engine you are running. With the miles you have on it now, I would add maybe a half of quart of Royal Purple Oil mixed in with my regular oil change. I did this to one of my engines that I built and it dropped my engine temp by 15 degrees. ---mark
Eric Woodall wrote: Hello list members, Been a while since I've been on the list! Good to be back! Here's the deal. I recently got my '66 Split on the road, with a New (not rebuilt) enine, new transaxle, new brakes, etc., etc., etc. I just had my Dual Weber ICT's rejetted to fit my engine specs.
I had Jeff (local vw mechanic guru) rejet the carbs, and diagnose what he thought was causing the bus to run hot. Right now I am running straight 40 weight oil, and my bus is still running hot around town (Gene Berg Dipstick).
Are my fellow Texas bus friends running multigrade oil? Are you all running multi grade synthetic oil? Do new engines run hotter until they're broken in? (only about 450 miles on this one)
I really don't want to get into a crazy heated debate about oil, a la type2.com list, but I am just curious.
I kind of need to sort this out before going on the long treck up to northwestern Arkansas at the end of the month.
