[tcb] Re: Technical Question - Oil and Engine Heat
- From: Will Wood <evilscientistboo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 10:47:13 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
I'd also ask what carbs are you running and what was the jetting, especially the idle jet numbers for the carbs?
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Sawyer
Sent: Jun 15, 2006 10:06 AM
To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [tcb] Re: Technical Question - Oil and Engine Heat
Try replacing the Scat pulley with a stock one and see if it makes any difference.
Eric Woodall <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Yeah, nothing in the fan.
Scat degree pulley.
All seals and tin in place.
I plan on getting at least a few hundred more miles on the engine before
the trip...
Thanks Mark, I'll be there on the 25th.
> That's right on the money. Do you have all your engine to body seals in? I
> know this sounds stupid but did you check the fan for a cleaning rag
> getting sucked in? Are you running stock pulleys or a aftermarket degree
> wheel? I have seen degree wheels be a little smaller and cause a heating
> problem because the fan is not turning fast enough. It's starting to sound
> like you just need to get some more miles on the engine. I will be gone
> this weekend, but for who ever is going to Denis's with us, I will have a
> tech session at my house on the 25th. (I will also be reinstalling the
> vanagon engine again, I hope)---mark
>
> Eric Woodall wrote: Dizzy = 010 (mech. adv)
> Timing = 28 (full advance)
>
>> What distributor are you running and what is the timing set at??
>>
>> Eric Woodall wrote: Deck lid is not too hot to
>> touch, although it is pretty damn hot...
>>
>>> Is the deck lid to hot to touch after you have been driving for a
>>> while??
>>> The only reliable temp guage I have ever used is one that has the
>>> sending
>>> unit in place of the cap on the pressure relief valve. ASK Imports
>>> usually
>>> has them in stock.
>>>
>>> Eric Woodall wrote: Engine size is 1600.
>>> A very un-stock 1600. I am contemplating unhooking my berg dipstick
>>> until
>>> the engine breaks in. The damn thing is making me crazy...
>>>
>>>> New engines naturally run hot until everything breaks in. Do not run a
>>>> synthetic oil until after you 2nd or 3rd oil change. If you do, the
>>>> rings
>>>> will never seat properly. I forget what size engine you are running.
>>>> With
>>>> the miles you have on it now, I would add maybe a half of quart of
>>>> Royal
>>>> Purple Oil mixed in with my regular oil change. I did this to one of
>>>> my
>>>> engines that I built and it dropped my engine temp by 15 degrees.
>>>> ---mark
>>>>
>>>> Eric Woodall wrote: Hello list members,
>>>> Been a while since I've been on the list! Good to be back!
>>>> Here's the deal. I recently got my '66 Split on the road, with a New
>>>> (not
>>>> rebuilt) enine, new transaxle, new brakes, etc., etc., etc.
>>>> I just had my Dual Weber ICT's rejetted to fit my engine specs.
>>>>
>>>> I had Jeff (local vw mechanic guru) rejet the carbs, and diagnose what
>>>> he
>>>> thought was causing the bus to run hot.
>>>> Right now I am running straight 40 weight oil, and my bus is still
>>>> running
>>>> hot around town (Gene Berg Dipstick).
>>>>
>>>> Are my fellow Texas bus friends running multigrade oil?
>>>> Are you all running multi grade synthetic oil?
>>>> Do new engines run hotter until they're broken in? (only about 450
>>>> miles
>>>> on this one)
>>>>
>>>> I really don't want to get into a crazy heated debate about oil, a la
>>>> type2.com list, but I am just curious.
>>>>
>>>> I kind of need to sort this out before going on the long treck up to
>>>> northwestern Arkansas at the end of the month.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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