Try replacing the Scat pulley with a stock one and see if it makes any difference. Eric Woodall <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: Yeah, nothing in the fan. Scat degree pulley. All seals and tin in place. I plan on getting at least a few hundred more miles on the engine before the trip... Thanks Mark, I'll be there on the 25th. > That's right on the money. Do you have all your engine to body seals in? I > know this sounds stupid but did you check the fan for a cleaning rag > getting sucked in? Are you running stock pulleys or a aftermarket degree > wheel? I have seen degree wheels be a little smaller and cause a heating > problem because the fan is not turning fast enough. It's starting to sound > like you just need to get some more miles on the engine. I will be gone > this weekend, but for who ever is going to Denis's with us, I will have a > tech session at my house on the 25th. (I will also be reinstalling the > vanagon engine again, I hope)---mark > > Eric Woodall wrote: Dizzy = 010 (mech. adv) > Timing = 28 (full advance) > >> What distributor are you running and what is the timing set at?? >> >> Eric Woodall wrote: Deck lid is not too hot to >> touch, although it is pretty damn hot... >> >>> Is the deck lid to hot to touch after you have been driving for a >>> while?? >>> The only reliable temp guage I have ever used is one that has the >>> sending >>> unit in place of the cap on the pressure relief valve. ASK Imports >>> usually >>> has them in stock. >>> >>> Eric Woodall wrote: Engine size is 1600. >>> A very un-stock 1600. I am contemplating unhooking my berg dipstick >>> until >>> the engine breaks in. The damn thing is making me crazy... >>> >>>> New engines naturally run hot until everything breaks in. Do not run a >>>> synthetic oil until after you 2nd or 3rd oil change. If you do, the >>>> rings >>>> will never seat properly. I forget what size engine you are running. >>>> With >>>> the miles you have on it now, I would add maybe a half of quart of >>>> Royal >>>> Purple Oil mixed in with my regular oil change. I did this to one of >>>> my >>>> engines that I built and it dropped my engine temp by 15 degrees. >>>> ---mark >>>> >>>> Eric Woodall wrote: Hello list members, >>>> Been a while since I've been on the list! Good to be back! >>>> Here's the deal. I recently got my '66 Split on the road, with a New >>>> (not >>>> rebuilt) enine, new transaxle, new brakes, etc., etc., etc. >>>> I just had my Dual Weber ICT's rejetted to fit my engine specs. >>>> >>>> I had Jeff (local vw mechanic guru) rejet the carbs, and diagnose what >>>> he >>>> thought was causing the bus to run hot. >>>> Right now I am running straight 40 weight oil, and my bus is still >>>> running >>>> hot around town (Gene Berg Dipstick). >>>> >>>> Are my fellow Texas bus friends running multigrade oil? >>>> Are you all running multi grade synthetic oil? >>>> Do new engines run hotter until they're broken in? (only about 450 >>>> miles >>>> on this one) >>>> >>>> I really don't want to get into a crazy heated debate about oil, a la >>>> type2.com list, but I am just curious. >>>> >>>> I kind of need to sort this out before going on the long treck up to >>>> northwestern Arkansas at the end of the month. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > >