[tcb] Re: Split Gas Tanks
- From: "Gerald V. Livingston II" <gvl2@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2004 09:39:18 -0500 (Central Standard Time)
I write about fixing buses because I don't have time to work on my own. I
have 3 VW's and drive a damned old Chevy truck because none of the VW's are
running. I have a Raby built engine that has been in a crate since last
June.
a '74 passenger bus that got as far as stripping the interior/glass on a
restoration, still has the engine/tranny in it (needs rebuild).
a '73 Riviera camper that I've had at 3 campouts now -- by TOWING it with
the Chevy.
a '69 bug that is so rusted it's starting to bow in the middle. Just got a
motor/tranny I could put in it too.
I write about the "right" way to fix things because I've done it all the
"other way". I put over 100,000 miles on the engine that's in the bug now
before it finally gave up. It'll probably still start now but it has no
power. That engine is one I built with junkyard parts on a short block that
had sucked #3 valve. I never split the case (because it was held together
by the JB Weld plugging the big chunk broken out of the top of the case)
after it sucked the valve. Just washed it out good, bought new
pistons/cylinders, found a set of heads that had been in a garage that
burned down (had to clean them with oven cleaner) and built it up from
that.
Like I said, I put over 100,000 miles on that rebuild. I had to adjust the
valves at least once a week, I had to pull the carb and dip clean it every
1000 miles or so, I had to reset the gap and timing once or twice a week, I
changed the oil once a month.
So now I try to steer people away from doing "just what is needed" to get
their VW back on the road. Unless you have a DEEP love for VW's driving one
that requires that much fiddling around with to keep it rolling will drive
you away.
Right now I'm working from 7am to midnight every day until midnight the
8th. I have the Rivi out in the parking lot with the Raby engine in the
cargo bay. I'm trying to figure out how to swap the tranny and install the
engine by myself during the 7 hours I have off each night. I want it
running before I gett off work Sunday night -- I'll cut corners I'm sure
(like the fact that the gas tank REALLY should be pulled and cleaned
<grin>).
G
On Wed, 4 Aug 2004 08:51:35 -0500 Denis <coocoo@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Damn, whever I read stuff on how to do a job "right" I find that It's
> like I
> use cave man technology. Gerald has step by step with product lists and
> instructions all the way down to safety instructions, my system is like
> "Ugh. take tank put rocks in and water, shake it up, put it back in drive
> away, Ugh" Me drive bus, it break, I fix, me drive, ugh.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Eric Woodall" <type2list@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2004 8:05 AM
> Subject: [tcb] Re: Split Gas Tanks
>
>
> > Dang Gerald that was a great email, thanks a lot!
> > At the end you mentioned a picture of a cleaned out tank, I think that
> might be a Richard Atwell picture.
> > I might try a radiator shop to remove all the stuff before
> re-sealing...
> >
> >
> > "Gerald V. Livingston II" <gvl2@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:The biggest thing
> is
> getting it clean. Resealing with the POR-15 protects
> > against further rust from inside and seals any holes that may already
> be
> > there up to about 1/8" big.
> >
> > If you have all the stuff it's a VERY straightforward process (see
> Dan's
> > message for some of the stuff needed).
> >
> > Probably want to start with the hot water and rocks to remove any loose
> > stuff so you don't have to use so much Marine Clean. Then use the
> marine
> > Clean. Follow all safety instructions with that stuff, it is heavy
> duty.
> It
> > will get rid of any remaining varnish and rust in the tank. After using
> the
> > Marine clean what you pour out will be really nasty stuff.
> >
> > After the Marine clean you should rinse the tank with hot water.
> > Follow that with a good hot water rinse for the tank.
> > Then take some really hot water and put it in the tank an slosh it
> aroud
> > really good.
> > After that....
> >
> > You get the idea. You want the water coming out looking clean enough to
> > drink (but don't do that).
> >
> > Look in all the holes you can find and see if there are any areas you
> can
> > see that are more rusty than everywhere else.
> >
> > Then use the Metal Ready as per instructions. Pour it in and do the
> tank
> > flip thing again. Coat everything. Metal ready is just a Zinc Phosphate
> > coating like Ospho. It's a "rust converter". If you saw any extra rusty
> > spots prop the tank so the MR covers them for a while. Rotate as
> needed to
> > give all rusty areas "extended treatment".
> >
> > Now go back up to the part about the hot water rinsing.
> >
> > When the water comes out clean you need to have a source of either
> WARM or
> > HIGH VOLUME air to blow through the tank to dry it completely. Warm AND
> > high volume would be great. I did the high volume thing:
> >
> >
> http://phorce1.sytes.net:8080/rootweb2/Buskatiers/Gerald.L/first-mini-res
> to-2002/4/album.html
> >
> > See photos 85 - 90.
> >
> > The tank needs to be COMPLETELY DRY! POR-15 cures with moisture. If
> there
> > are any damp spots inside you will end up with "nuggets" that cure
> faster
> > than the rest and may break off in the future and leave an unprotected
> > spot.
> >
> > Once it's DRY follow the instructions on the sealer can. Pour it in the
> > tank, rotate for full coverage, pour out the excess.
> >
> > Do not try to save any leftover tank sealer. This is Texas, read the
> part
> > above about how this stuff cures. Once you open the can you have to
> use it
> > RIGHT THEN. Even if you close the can back up it will have absorbed
> enough
> > moisture from the air that it will be rubbery in a day or so and rock
> solid
> > within a week.
> >
> > Don't get it on you or anything you value. I spilled some on the
> asphalt
> > driveway doing my tank. When I went to "kick it up" the next day I
> kicked
> a
> > huge chunk of driveway up instead.
> >
> > My brother and I thought that was fascinating. So, we did what comes
> > natural to guys when faced with something that's supposed to be
> > "indestructible" -- we tried to destroy it. We failed miserably. It was
> > just a chunk of "stuff". We used the biggest hammers we could find to
> try
> > to shatter it. We tried to pound nails into it (that did chip it but we
> > never got one to actually drive in). We dulled a couple of drill bits
> to
> > useless poking holes in it.
> >
> > As far as the inside of a fuel tank goes this stuff is definitely the
> > equivalent of "indestructible".
> >
> > Yes, it will take you 3 or 4 days (or more depending on drying time)
> to do
> > this. But it will NEVER have to be done again.
> >
> > A less verbose set of instructions is here:
> >
> > http://www.frost.co.uk/how_do_i.asp#3
> >
> >
> > And DO NOT try to use a blow dryer on your tank until AFTER you have
> done
> > both the Marine Clean and Metal Ready steps. No matter how long it sits
> > there will be some volatile fumes in there, maybe odorless. Breaking up
> the
> > varnish will release more.
> >
> > There was a link with pictures of a tank after someone used a blow
> dryer
> to
> > try to air it out after doing nothing more than rinsing it with hot
> water
> > several times. Pretty cool looking but I can't find the link now.
> >
> > Gerald
> >
> > On Tue, 3 Aug 2004 10:44:13 -0700 (PDT) Eric Woodall wrote:
> >
> > > So what is a good way to tell if my tank actually needs to be
> re-sealed.
> > > I am just assuming that it needs it because the tank was not
> connected
> > > to the engine when I bought the bus (fuel supply was a jerry can).
> > >
> > > If I take off the sending unit and the fuel outlet will I be able to
> see
> > > anything? I guess just for the extra insurance I should probably just
> > > re-seal it and forget it...
> > >
> > > Hey Gerald, is it a pretty straight forward process on re-sealing it?
> > > ----------------------------------
> > > Eric "Mr. Electric Wizard" Woodall
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