[tcb] Re: Gremlins
- From: "Denis Dodson" <coocoo@xxxxxxx>
- To: <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 09:20:14 -0500
it can be done with some nails and a big piece of plywood and a lot of time
From: tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:tcb-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf
Of kelly dosch
Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2011 5:06 AM
To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [tcb] Re: Gremlins
The owner of Bugoholics in Pasadena says there is a really good shop near
his that will actually just make a new harness and install it for a fraction
of the cost of ordering a new one. (imported labor
<http://mail.yimg.com/a/i/mesg/tsmileys2/05.gif> ) He said they're cheap,
fast, and they know what they're doing.
Actually, I think he said,"They do good work. They'll getcha in & out and
you can probably pay 'em with a case of beer."
_____
From: w.wood <evil.scientist.boo@xxxxxxxxx>
To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wed, May 11, 2011 1:21:51 AM
Subject: [tcb] Re: Gremlins
The Bays were the first VW bus with integrated all of the turn signal and
hi/low beam functions. It could be that the switch is just worn out. My
Step Dad's old bus used to have similar issues so
we replaced the switch with one from a bone yard. That cleared it up for
awhile then finally we replaced the dimmer relay and it fixed everything.
The bays were the first to actually get an honest relay in a bus. As all of
the other e-mails replying to this indicate, patience is your best friend
along with a good multimeter. Also, don't forget that the contacts, even
though they'll conduct current, won't do it well. Also, if your wiring has
been severely hacked by DPOs or FPOs (are they like APOs?) just get a new
harness; it'll save you tons of headaches and frustration.
On Tue, May 10, 2011 at 3:20 PM, Julie <julie.hey.ho.lets.go@xxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
This is probably a Chuck question since my '68 zebra Bus doesn't have normal
wiring and he is familiar with Denis' abnormal wiring. This Bus has glass
fuses and everything looks different.
At times on my driveway or at my mechanic's the horn, brake lights, brites
and low beams and turn signals have worked correctly and then they work on
quickie test drives but then on longer journeys (like to work) they get
freaky. Like the turn signals work but when I turn them off they go off but
the green triangles stay lit. Sometimes I can get these to turn off by
putting my headlights on and clicking them to brite to turn the green
triangles off. Or then sometimes the turn signals just quit.
Later (maybe hours or days later) after I make it to my destination, I start
to fiddle. I mess with the fuses up front, I mess with the wires in the
back, I mess with the wiring in the turn signal housing (some of the wires
in there are on their last leg, one is now unattached, I think it has to do
with switching from low to high beams) and usually I get it back to some
state of working. And then I test drive, it works well enough. And then I
drive to work and it goes goofy again and stops working.
So here is my theory, can the turn signal relay work normal sometimes like
after a period of rest but not work other times because it gets hot over a
longer drive?
Or do I need to call a priest and have an exorcism?
When the turn signals, horn and brake lights stop working all at the same
time I believe that has more to do with a fuse that gets loose.
My alternator light sometimes goes on when I am stopped at a traffic light
especially if I have my headlights on but when I start moving it does go
off. I thought perhaps a timing/idle problem but the mechanic worked on
that today and the green light is coming on again when stopped at traffic
lights even without the headlights on. I don't know if this has anything to
do with the turn signal gremlins.
Thanks for reading this babble, I can't believe you made it this far. I
like quirks but this Bus has a few too many.
Julie
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