[rollei_list] Re: TMax 100 Development - some Results
----- Original Message ----- From: "Jan Decher" <Jan.Decher@xxxxxxx> 
To: <rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 2:33 PM
Subject: [rollei_list] Re: TMax 100 Development - some Results 


Hi Everyone,
Here are two results from my TMax 100 development in 9.5 min in 1:1 D 
76 at 20° C.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mittelformat/2960314050/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mittelformat/2960315262/in/photostream/
Agitated the first full minute then 15 seconds out of every minute thereafter. Ca. 10 minutes in Ilford Rapid Fixer and 16 minute washing with Jobo Cascade. Dried after 1 minute Photo Flo 200 
treatment.
How important is the Kodak Hypo Clearing bath? So far I am pretty happy with the results, although I still prefer the results I got 
with Fuji Neopan 400.
I noticed on the right side of both images a row of spottings. Its 
also evident in this picture from an earlier roll:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mittelformat/2504229938/in/photostream/
Is this the dreaded roller reflection? If yes, what was the remedy this list agreed upon? Roller replacement by Harry Fleenor? Or get 
an FX ;-)
The hypo clearing agent reduces wash time and will remove some fixer reaction products that otherwise are not soluble. Without the wash aid Kodak recommends a 30 minute wash in running water, I've forgotten the minimum temperature but probably about 65F or a longer wash in cooler water. This is based on the use of conventional acid hardening fixer using white alum hardener. Since the Ilford fixer does not have an alum hardener in it the 15 minute wash is likely sufficient since the binding action of this particular hardener retards washing considerably. The action is specific to white alum when above about neutral pH. Experiments show that chrome-alum hardener (potassium chromium sulfate), which requires a considerably lower pH to work, does not retard washing time. Wash time when KHCA is used is 5 minutes in running water down to 50F regardless of whether a hardening fixer was used or not. The KHCA will also completely remove any residual sensitizing dye which otherwise leaves a sort of purplish stain.
I don't recognize the marks on the film. They are not typical of the roller reflections. The T-Max negative also has an irregular section at the top, near the center, that appears to have moir, perhaps this is an artifact of scanning. The marks at near the edges also do not appear to be surge marks. They look almost as though the film was sticking together during part of the development or fixing process. More detail about the type of tank (or whatever other method was used) would be helpful. Also, look at the surfaces of the film to see if the marks show up in relief, they may be drying marks although they are not typical of them. I don't think the camera is causing this.
BTW, for some time I've been using a final rinse suggested by a chemist friend. To one liter of water add half a capful of Photo-Flo (half the recommended amount) and about 30 ml of 70% Isopropyl alcohol. Soak the film in this mixture for about one minute and hang up to dry without squeegeeing. The combination of the Photo-Flo and alcohol improves the wetting properties of the Photo-Flo. 70% Isopropyl is plain rubbing alcohol, make sure you do not get "flavored" rubbing alcohol, some comes with oil of wintergreen and other undesirable additives. 

--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx

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