[rollei_list] Re: Old film. Now: Older Exposure Meters

Marv,

I'm afraid that your assessment of older light meters is in error.

Jerry

Marvin Wallace wrote:

> An interesting distinction here between the photographer and the collecter.
> A Rollei a 1960's Planar will give equal or better results than the modern
> equivalent; old film is not as good as modern film; older b/w papers are
> sometimes better because of the higher silver content.
> And ask for old light meters ! A modern light meter will give a more
> accurate measurement of light; so that the lighting conditions can be more
> accurately translated to film (modern film) which records better.
> I am always surprised that people use old meters the modern equivalents are
> much better.
> An analogy regarding the use of light meters would be, the USA making a
> Space Rocket and then using a compass as the guidance system.
> Marvin.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rollei_list-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:rollei_list-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Richard Knoppow
> Sent: 31 May 2005 05:12
> To: rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [rollei_list] Re: Old film
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Williams" <dwilli10@xxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, May 30, 2005 12:23 PM
> Subject: [rollei_list] Re: Old film
>
> > At 05:10 PM 5/28/2005, Dick wrote:
> > . . . . .
> >
> >>    Silver is more stable than dye but is actually not
> >> very
> >>stable unless toned. Silver sulfide is extremely stable.
> >>Silver sulfide images are the result of using any of
> >>several
> >>Sulfiding toners, often called Sepia toners. Kodak Brown
> >>Toner and the very similar Agfa Viradon are examples of
> >>such
> >>toners.
> >
> > I think I have a variety of prints, some of which may be
> > tintype, in a box
> > I picked up from my stepfather many years ago.  I think
> > some of them are
> > indeed tarnishing a bit.  Any suggestions.  (I haven't
> > even looked in there
> > in a couple of years, since some of the photos were in
> > mounts and I didn't
> > want to sort out the broken glass, guess it's about time.
> >
> > DAW
> >
> >
>    Tintypes, more properly Ferrotypes, are photos made by
> coating a very thin sensitive layer on polished metal. Since
> silver in very thin layers is reflective, a direct positive
> is had by making the backing black. The silver image looks
> white in comparison. Tintype coating may be gelatin but many
> were also made using collodion. Restoring them is really a
> job for a professional conservator.
>    Regular prints can show the effects of oxidation of the
> silver by "mirroring" or
> "bronzing". This is an effect where the image silver is
> oxidized, the oxide being extremely fine is able to migrate
> to the surface where it may be again reduced to metallic
> silver by other pollutants. The result is a noticeable shiny
> area especially over the denser portions of the image.
> negatives, in principle, are also subject to this redox
> effect but the image silver grains are so much larger than
> print grains that the effect is rare.
>    There are treatments that can remove the surface
> material. They consist in general of bleaching in a
> permanganate bleach and redeveloping. Any such treatment can
> destroy the print so the best procedure is to make the best
> copy negative or scan possible before trying any remedial
> treatment.
>    Kodak has a couple of good books on identifying and
> preserving old images. I have to search mine out to give you
> publication data. Again, its wise to consult a professional
> before attempting anything other than copying damaged old
> images.
>    I am not sure if your reference to broken glass refers
> glass slide mounts of glass plate negatives. The emulsions
> of broken glass plate negatives can often be transferred to
> a new support. There are techniques for stripping both
> gelatin emulsion and collodion (wet plate) coating but I am
> not an expert.
>
> ---
> Richard Knoppow
> Los Angeles, CA, USA
> dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
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