[rollei_list] Re: OT: development
- From: "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 10:33:56 -0700
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Davis" <jamesd@xxxxxxx>
To: <rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 9:51 AM
Subject: [rollei_list] OT: development
> Apologies for being slightly off topic, but I'm sure it's
> more on topic
> than in any other mailing list I'm subscribed to.
>
> I've run five films of Ilford Delta 100 through my
> Rolleiflex. The first
> I got done at a local lab as a control and the rest I've
> been learning
> to process at home as the 'local' lab isn't too convenient
> or give much
> value for money.
>
> The rolls I've developed have a slight purple tinge to
> them slightly
> whilst the lab developed roll is hardly purple if at all.
> I suspect that
> my temperature control isn't up to scratch - I haven't
> really been
> paying as much attention to it as I think I should. Is
> this a
> possibility or am I looking at completely the wrong thing?
>
> I've also noticed the problem with the frames not being
> quite so well
> aligned as mentioned earlier but I'm sure that'll
> disappear with
> experience. I've been enjoying getting to know the camera.
> :-)
>
> James
The practical answer is to treat the film with a sulfite
wash aid, like Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent, before washing.
The blue stain is probably residual sensitizing dye as is
the violet stain in T-Max films. While the presense of this
slight stain is attributed to incomplete fixing I think its
mostly due to the dye being bound to the gelatin by its pH
after the use of an acid fixer. It may also be bound by the
alum hardener if you are using a hardening fixing bath. The
use of the wash aid does several things, all of which tend
to release bound hypo, reaction products of fixing, and the
dye. T-Max films come out of the wash aid completely clear,
I suspect the Delta film will also.
You can do a better job of processing than the pro lab.
First of all you have a choice of the developer and other
chemistry. Secondly, you can adjust the processing to match
the film and shooting conditions you use. I would start with
a conventional developer and follow the manufacturer's
instructions for it and the film. Believe it or not Kodak,
Ilford, Agfa, Fuji, do know what they are doing and want you
to get the best results possible from their products.
The frame spacing from Rollei cameras has little to do
with operator skill, its a matter of the condition of the
camera. Spacing should be reasonably even in a camera in
good condition. It will never be exactly uniform because
there are slight variations in the film and perhaps the
camera mechanism. The one rollei I have that spaces very
evenly is my 2.8E since it was worked over by Harry Fleenor
some years ago. Large variations in film metering suggest
that there is a problem with the wind mechanism, probably no
more than needing a cleaning and relubrication.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
---
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