On May 20, 2005, at 7:01 PM, Richard Knoppow wrote: > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Allen Zak" <azak@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > To: <rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> > Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 3:06 PM > Subject: [rollei_list] Re: OT: development > > >> >> On May 20, 2005, at 4:21 PM, Richard Knoppow wrote: >> >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: "Bob Shell" <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxx> >>> To: <rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> >>> Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 12:17 PM >>> Subject: [rollei_list] Re: OT: development >>> >>> >>>> >>>> On Friday, May 20, 2005, at 02:57 PM, James Davis >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Sorry to follow myself up, I presume that the Ilford >>>>> equivalent (for my >>>>> local store stocks Ilford) is Ilford Wash Aid? It's not >>>>> clear from >>>>> their >>>>> literature that it's sulfite based. >>>>> >>>> >>>> I never use a wash aid with film. Fixing the film >>>> longer >>>> and washing >>>> properly will get rid of any residual dye. The wash aid >>>> won't hurt >>>> anything, but I don't think it is really necessary. I >>>> do >>>> use it on >>>> fiber based paper prints, though. >>>> >>>> Bob >>>> >>>> --- >>> It has the same benefit for film as for paper in that >>> it >>> makes some othewise insoluble fixing reaction products >>> soluble, or at least releases them when they are bound up >>> to >>> image silver or the gelatin. This has the effect of >>> extending fixer capacity and insuring complete fixation. >>> Wash aid also helps to conserve water where that is >>> desirable by reducing film washing time from 30 minutes >>> to 5 >>> minutes. >>> >>> --- >>> Richard Knoppow >>> Los Angeles, CA, USA >>> dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx >> >> Ilford recommends fixing with non-hardening rapid fixer, >> no wash aid, >> then washing with a technique that usually takes about 5 >> minutes or >> less and uses about three pints (@ 1.5 liters) of water >> per roll of >> film, assuming SS Nikor style tanks and reels. That's >> what I have been >> doing for the last decade or so. It is probably too early >> to determine >> how well my negatives will last, but I'm also old enough >> to not really >> care. Fortunately, my earlier B&W was processed strictly >> to Kodak >> specs, which included a wash aid ( Perma Wash) and >> therefore will >> outlast all meaning. >> >> Allen Zak >> >> --- >> Rollei List > > > I am not certain what is in Perma-Wash. At least one wash > aid on the market seems to be composed of a detergent. I > have no idea if this stuff works. I have the vaguest memory > of reading an article or paper on detergents as wash aids > long ago but have not seen anyting recently. Lets say I am > suspicious of it. > The test for completeness of washing is the Silver > Nitrate test. There are others which are most sensitive but > the Silver Nitrate test will show whether the prints have > excessive hypo in them. The method is very simple but a more > elaborate version, in which the stain spots are fixed, can > be used with a densitometer for quantitative measurements. > All this stuff is in Kodak literature somewhere. > Ilford's procedure is premised on the idea that fixing > time should be so short that hypo can not work its way into > the paper fibers. Washing is a diffusion process except for > this condition of paper base. Once the hypo becomes adsorbed > onto the interstices of the fibers they tend to bind there > and it is at least partially a frictional process to remove > them. Sulfite acts as an ion exchange for thiosulfate so > tends to force it out of the fibers. Ilford found that if > the fixing process could be completed in less than a minute, > preferably in no more than 30 seconds, the hypo did not > become bound up in the fibers. After 2 minutes the deed is > done and washing must be done conventionally. One problem is > that no all paper will fix out in one minute or less. > Ilford recommends a ten minute treatment in sulfite wash > aid followed by a five minute wash. Ilford also has a water > saving method of using successive baths of water. Kodak has > a similar regimen but Ilford's probably uses less water. > Such a system of successive baths can give perfectly > archival washing but has no advantage over running water > other than conservation of water and utility where running > water is not available. > > --- > Richard Knoppow > Los Angeles, CA, USA > dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx The procedure I described was for film, upon which there is no absorption of fixer other than the emulsion. Quickie paper fixi/wash seemed suitable for RC but more problematical with FB, so for those I stayed with standard methods. Perma Wash was pretty common way back when, probably because it came packaged as a liquid and was more convenient to mix than KHCA. Most large volume processors around here used the stuff. Allen Zak --- Rollei List - Post to rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx - Subscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with 'subscribe' in the subject field OR by logging into www.freelists.org - Unsubscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with 'unsubscribe' in the subject field OR by logging into www.freelists.org - Online, searchable archives are available at //www.freelists.org/archives/rollei_list