[rollei_list] Re: OT: Question re shutter CLA and Ronsonol

Richard,

Please recall that the original questor had a lens und shutter that
was not on a camera.  He CLEARLY said that it was on a Century
Graphic!  All he has to do is take it off the lensboard, unscrew the
lens cells and remove the front cover.  I'm sure that you and I have
done that more than once.

I would NEVER suggest that he do that on an assembled Rollei.

Jerry

Richard Knoppow wrote:

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ardeshir Mehta" <ardeshir@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 2:56 PM
> Subject: [rollei_list] Re: OT: Question re shutter CLA and
> Ronsonol
>
> >
> > On Wednesday, January 12, 2005, at 08:21  AM, Richard
> > Urmonas wrote:
> >
> >> Nooooooooo.  No solvent.  Either have a proper CLA done,
> >> or put up
> >> with it as it is. Putting solvent inside just moves the
> >> gunk around.
> >> You may get the shutter working OK for a while, but it
> >> will soon gum
> >> up again. Further the solvent could move gunk onto the
> >> shutter blades
> >> in which case you will have to send it for a proper CLA.
> >
> > I FULLY agree.
> >
> > That said, however, in the case of my 3.5 Tessar-equipped
> > Rolleiflex
> > K4/50 Automat, whose shutter I gummed up by stupidly
> > injecting WD-40
> > into it (guys! Learn from my mistakes!), I can still
> > loosen the shutter
> > to work just PERFECTLY by injecting a small quantity of
> > Ronsonol into
> > it. (I am lucky in the fact that this early model has a
> > slot on the
> > lower left side of the lens, through which Ronsonol CAN be
> > injected
> > into the shutter mechanism).
> >
> > I can even flood the shutter with Ronsonol, and then drain
> > the excess
> > out through the slot - but then Ronsonol gets on the lens
> > elements.
> > (Not to worry, it all evaporates eventually, leaving not a
> > wrack
> > behind). So I've been using just a few drops of Ronsonol
> > lately, so as
> > not to get any of it on the lens.
> >
> > The effect of loosening up the shutter lasts only for a
> > few hours, but
> > that much time still allows me to shoot a roll, or indeed
> > quite a few
> > rolls, before it starts gumming up again!
> >
> > So until I can afford to ship the camera off to Harry for
> > a full
> > overhaul - maybe in a month or two, maybe more - I can
> > still USE the
> > camera.
> >
> > Cheers.
> >
> >
>     I think you were darn lucky! First of all that the WD-40
> didn't get all over everything and secondly that a squirt of
> Ronsonol fixed it.
>     Ronsonol is quite pure Naphtha. It IS suitable as a
> shutter cleaning solvent, I used it, but only on shutter
> parts when the shutter has been opened up. Generally I
> follow it with a flush of 99% Isopropyl alcohol.
> Unfortunately, the best cleaning solvents for shutters are
> now either environmental hazards (trichlor) or are just
> plain too toxic to use in any sort of casual manner (carbon
> tet). A shutter can sometimes be cleaned without a total
> disassembly but its difficult to get all the residue off the
> shutter blades. Because they operate with no clearance and
> no lubrication shutter blades are particularly sensitive to
> residue.
>    Most shutters are intended to be lubricated in a few
> specified locations. Compur shutters require a very small
> amount of fine oil, like watch oil, on the trunions of the
> speed controller gears and a touch of very light grease on a
> couple of sliding parts. Ilex shutters are intended to run
> dry. If a Compur is properly cleaned it should run dry, the
> lubricant increases its life. Modern synthetic lubricants
> are very much longer lived than the older ones made from
> animal fats but don't last forever.
>    Instructions for cleaining Compur shutters is widely
> available in the form of reprint factory guides. Information
> on Kodak and Wollensak shutters, and a few Ilex shutters is
> harder to find but available.
>    The problem with shutter cleaning on a Rollei is that one
> must partially disassemble the camera to get the shutter out
> and putting everything back afterward. That's a lot of work.
>
> ---
> Richard Knoppow
> Los Angeles, CA, USA
> dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx


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