[pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- From: "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 14:45:50 -0800
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shannon Stoney" <sstoney@xxxxxxx>
To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 12:10 PM
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
>
I'll try that. What do you mean by minimal agitation?
My normal
agitation is 10 seconds once every 60 seconds, as per
Ilford's
directions.
That's fine with LF. The minimal agitation is more
important with 35mm and I
forgot that you are exclusively LF (aren't you?). I use
12-13 min for TX or
TMY and it come out fine but, DON'T REUSE IT. It has
compensating effect at
this dilution so you will probably see no more blown
highlights. The gamma
will be a bit lower but I think you'll like the tonal
range.
Right now I'm processing some MF film: HP5+. I like a
long scale. The paper scale with the enlarger I use now,
and my last few boxes of Agfa paper, is about 1.3, I guess
because of the diffusion head.
So for MF film, what would minimal agitation be?
--shannon
Shannon, the idea of "minimum" agitation comes from the
idea that a highly diluted developer becomes partially
exhausted in the highlight areas where it develops the most
silver. This exhaustion is supposed to reduce the amount of
development there resulting in lower contrast highlights.
Under some circumstances this can work but in general lack
of agitation results in uneven development. To get the best
results from a compensating developer it must really be used
with stagnent development, meaning NO agitation. This also
requries the film to be horizontal so that there are no
directional effects from diffusing reaction products causing
convection.
The degree of development is partly dependant on the
amount of agitation so, if the charts supplied by the film
or developer manufacturer are to work the agitation method
specified on must be followed. Other agitation methods can
be used but there may be some descrepency in the contrast
predicted by the time/temperature chart.
Acutance is a very small scale effect causing an
effective increase in the contrast at the borders of high
and low density areas. It is caused by diffusion of reaction
products laterally through the emulsion. Because the
diffusion path to the surface of the emulsion is often
longer this effect can occur to some degree even when the
film is agitated continuously. For the most part acutance
effects are due to a combination of the developer and
emulsion properties.
As far as "scale" nearly any film will record a much
longer scale of brightness than can be printed on a
reflection print. I don't know of any modern film which has
a real "shoulder" on its curve unless exposed many stops
beyond normal. The idea is to expose and develop the film so
that the the range of tones recorded on the "normal" part of
the film characteristic curve are sufficient to give a
fairly linear reproduction of the mid-grays in the scene.
This is what the eye expects to see. Lowering the contrast
of the highlights will result in "blown out" highlights
because the result is too low contrast there to satisfy the
eye. Burning in, either manually or by masking, is about the
only choice if you want to have a reflection print which
gives the illusion of a longer brightness range than it is
capable of.
Overall contrast of a negative is controlled by choosing
the development time. Once this is done the effective film
speed can be determined which will put the minimum
brightness point of the scene to be photographed onto the
toe at a point where its contrast is high enough to yield
sufficient detail. This must really be worked out
experimentally although its made easier by the fact that B&W
film has a very large latitude for overexposure. By latitude
I mean that the range of exposure which produces the same
tone rendition on the print.
The difference between a diffusion printer and a
condenser enlarger of the usual partly diffusing sort
(Omega, Bessler, etc.) is about one paper grade difference
for the same negative. This is _exactly_ compensated for by
choosing the paper contrast grade appropriately. One can
also choose to vary the negative contrast so that negatives
will print on Grade-2 paper. This is done by adjusting the
development time and exposure.
I think you should try conventional means of development
and agitation before experimenting with "compensating" type
developers.
Iford and Kodak agitation, while different, are very
similar in their effect on development, I don't think it
makes much difference in results.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
=============================================================================================================
To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your
account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,)
and unsubscribe from there.
- Follow-Ups:
- [pure-silver] spotting warm tone paper
- From: Shannon Stoney
- References:
- [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- From: Koch, Gerald
- [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- From: Shannon Stoney
- [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- From: John Black
- [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- From: Shannon Stoney
- [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- From: John Black
- [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- From: Shannon Stoney
Other related posts:
- » [pure-silver] re-using DDX
- » [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- » [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- » [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- » [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- » [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- » [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- » [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- » [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- » [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- » [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- » [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- » [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- » [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- » [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- » [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- » [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- » [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- » [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- » [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- » [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
>That's fine with LF. The minimal agitation is more important with 35mm and I
I'll try that. What do you mean by minimal agitation? My normal
agitation is 10 seconds once every 60 seconds, as per Ilford's
directions.
forgot that you are exclusively LF (aren't you?). I use 12-13 min for TX or
TMY and it come out fine but, DON'T REUSE IT. It has compensating effect at
this dilution so you will probably see no more blown highlights. The gamma
will be a bit lower but I think you'll like the tonal range.
Right now I'm processing some MF film: HP5+. I like a long scale. The paper scale with the enlarger I use now, and my last few boxes of Agfa paper, is about 1.3, I guess because of the diffusion head.
So for MF film, what would minimal agitation be?
--shannon
- [pure-silver] spotting warm tone paper
- From: Shannon Stoney
- [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- From: Koch, Gerald
- [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- From: Shannon Stoney
- [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- From: John Black
- [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- From: Shannon Stoney
- [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- From: John Black
- [pure-silver] Re: re-using DDX
- From: Shannon Stoney