[pure-silver] Re: holga focus and how do you scan a negative properly
- From: Gianni Rondinini <freelists@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2007 22:26:11 +0100
B P ha scritto:
Gianni,
hi becky.
first of all, claudio was right: i use the dslr to make reproductions of
negatives and color slides, not prints. for prints, a flatbed scanner
works acceptably well (if the print isn't larger than 8x12", of course).
i have looked at your print and it seems to me the light came too much
from the sides of the print. you may try to have a light source being,
at the same time,
- more diffused and
- as perpendicular to the print as possible.
this will lead to the lest paper texture to appear in the digital image.
problem with lint on the print. I read from Shannon that I can use a
swiffer so I could try that before scanning or copping prints, next
yes, a swiffer will clean the print from dust and it's always advisable
to use one; however in the photo you uploaded there is some dust and
much paper texture.
time. I liked the ease of using the copy stand but then found that the
work to try and "fix" the image afterwards, was too much work. I'll go
yes, it is for sure too much work. i was suggesting to shot at the
negatives and do the 'print job' in digital darkroom because it's a very
fast thing to do, but if you take a digital image of a print and then
have to clean up the digital file, it's an unacceptable waste of time.
of course, if you decide to try shooting with a dslr at your negatives
or slides, you need to have a retro-illuminated work plane. we use a
lupo (an old italian, i think, company) which comes with a 5000k light
source. i've, then, got a laser-cut sheet metal which allows for very
precise positioning of the film, so that we can digitalize many images
in an evening.
put one of the copies from the copy stand, back up for you to see. Maybe
you can tell me what I did wrong.
my opinion is that most/all of the texture you got will disappear if you
use a better lighting system (apart from the little dust there is on the
pring. if you're using a couple of flashes it's harder to see what will
be in the final image until you move it from the camera to a computer,
but if a continuous light system is available, you'll see with your eyes
the best way to enlight your print on reproduction stand.
the hardest part will be achieving the correct toning on the digital
file, because colors seen by other people depend on color profile for
your and their monitors; however, everybody knows this and nobody will
complain for a digital b&w image with a lith tone that doesn't look like
'real' lith tone.
i hope this helps: unfortunately my english isn't as good as i wish and
i can't tell you much more than this.
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