[pure-silver] Re: duplicate info
- From: "Eric Neilsen Photography" <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2005 19:37:47 -0500
Marc and Mark, Glass? Sure it is great if you use a very controlled
environment. Terrible if you screw up. Does the photo have stains? A slight
color? Pay close attention as your eye will let a bit of a yellow or orange
color go, but your film will capture it and turn your white to gray and you
will lose detail in the highlights as you try and make a ?new white?. It is
great to use a black felt background. Why? It simply allows you to shot and
SEE just a speck of detail in your shadow values and then allows you to
adjust your development to place your high lights. Is it a glossy paper or
a textured surface? Cracks or smooth? This can help you to determine the
type of lighting that will work. Outdoors in open shade can be good, but it
can also lead to slightly blue light? That might be OK, unless there is a
faded blue pen or stain.
Treat it as a science of photography; light has color and quality, use both
for you.
Just my two cents,
Eric Neilsen Photography
4101 Commerce Street
Suite 9
Dallas, TX 75226
http://e.neilsen.home.att.net
http://ericneilsenphotography.com
_____
From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of mark
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 11:08 AM
To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: duplicate info
Marc
The photo and the camera need to be perfectly aligned.
I would use a waist level viewer.
The magnet idea is great, I used to use it all the time.
You want soft diffuse light. Outdoors in open shade is good. It would
probably be more convienent to work indoors though. Try working in an area (
a small room) with white walls and ceilings and bouncing several lights into
them away from the photo. When done right this produces a controllable and
gentle light.
I would NEVER use glass over the photo. Far too many problems.
I would meter the 4 corners of the print and the center. This will allow you
to tweak the lights to get an even coverage of the photo. Small differences
from one to the other are fine.
I would consider using the 80mm lens and shoot the image just alittle fat.
If you do use a 50mm then watch for distortion. If you use an extension tube
you must increase your exposure so a bit of bracketing would be a good idea.
I would lock the mirror up and use a cable release.
Lastly I would leave the copy setup in place until I proofed the negatives
or shoot a polaroid. In fact polaroid positive/negative B+W film can produce
an excellent copy neg. I guess it is still made?
Good luck
Mark Carney
----- Original Message -----
From: Marc <mailto:marc.peeters@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Peeters
To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 3:49 PM
Subject: [pure-silver] duplicate info
Subject: duplicate info
I need some information for what I can expect for the next job.
At this moment it is to hot here in Belgium for going into ma darkroom. We
have about 30°C during the day which mean in my darkroom 6-7° more.
But a friend of the family asked me to make a new picture for his
grandfather. The picture was made in the year 35. There is no negative so I
need to make a new one. Dimensions of the pictures are 50cm x 70 cm (+- 20
x 26). He asked me to make a new picture with the same size.
I'm planning to make a new negative with my 6x6 Hasselblad. Which lens can
I use for the best result 50 - 80 ore 150 ?? Is it better to use it with
rings (I have 10 and 21). Do I need to put a glass on the picture before I
make a new negative or gives this to much reflections ??
I usually use T-max 100, is this OK or is there something better for these
things ??
And what can I expect from the general result ?? Will it have the same
sharpness or much less ??
Thanks a lot
Marc
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