[pure-silver] Re: What happens when XTOL dies

  • From: Jim Brick <jim@xxxxxxxxx>
  • To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 17:52:50 -0800

Sorry to hear about your trouble. I've never had Xtol die on me BUT, I've had friends who have. They say that it either develops normally, or it does not work at all. Nothing in the middle. Like a switch - on or off. But I have no personal experience here.

One thing I learned a very long time ago, is... If in a situation where you are using a film that you are not used to using, and you also do not know how to develop it, you always shoot another quick roll of the situation (in your case, the stage, etc.) and then cut this roll (36 exp 35mm or 220) into four equal pieces. then develop one piece, in what you think is is the correct developer/time/temp, and take a look. If you get bad results (like you did) you then try something else on the next quarter piece. Hopefully, by the time you have finished all four pieces, you will have the answer and be able to develop the real film properly.

Sorry about your loss...

:-(

A couple of other things come to mind. From past experience, both Delta 3200 and TMax 3200 are not true 3200 films. They rely on push processing to achieve this speed. They are ASA 800 speed films when developed in normal developers. ASA 3200 is a 2 stop push for these films. On the other hand, Fuji 1600 is a true 1600 speed film and easily pushes to 3200 without a whimper. And Xtol works great on this film.

The other thing is (and I am not saying that you did this) that when shooting rock type concerts, in camera meters, unless narrow spot meters, are pretty much useless. They see and are terribly biased by the bright stage lights. Using an averaging meter under these circumstances is the same as rating your 3200 film at ASA 12800 - at least a two stop push over 3200. Or even more! And TMX3200 is actually an ASA 800 film, so, setting your meter at 3200 and reading a bright stage with an averaging meter is sure death for the images - or the lack thereof. Here's what Kodak says, and the Kodak web site has development procedures for TMX 3200.

"
KODAK PROFESSIONAL T-MAX P3200 Film is specially designed to be used as a multi-speed film. The speed you use depends on your application; make tests to determine the appropriate speed.


The nominal speed is EI 1000 when the film is processed in KODAK PROFESSIONAL T-MAX Developer or KODAK PROFESSIONAL T-MAX RS Developer and Replenisher, or EI 800 when it is processed in other Kodak black-and-white developers. It was determined in a manner published in ISO standards. For ease in calculating exposure and for consistency with the commonly used scale of film-speed numbers, the nominal speed has been rounded to EI 800.

Because of its great latitude, you can expose this film at EI 1600 and yield negatives of high quality. There will be no change in the grain of the final print, but there may be a slight loss of shadow detail. When you need a higher speed, you can expose this film at EI 3200 or 6400. At these speeds, there will be a slight increase in contrast and graininess with additional loss of shadow detail. (See the processing tables for adjusted development times.)
"


Jim


At 07:54 PM 2/24/2006 -0500, Justin F. Knotzke wrote:


I just souped my TMAX 3200 in XTOL 1+1 for 18.5 mins at 20c and they are horribly thin.. to the point that I can barely see any images.

Either I exposed completely wrong, or my XTOL is dead. What happens to XTOL when it dies?

Major pisser too since the band was hoping to use those images for an CD backing.

J

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