[pure-silver] Sepia Toners
- From: "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 14:44:30 -0800
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bogdan Karasek" <bkarasek@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 5:41 AM
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Sodium Hydroxide = Red Devil Lye
Hello Richard,
The formula for the Sepia toner is from the
"digitaltruth.com" site, under technical data section
where they list 130 darkroom formulas; second down from
the "massive dev chart". They have one formula for Sepia
toner..... that's the one I want to try.
I'm trying to find a replacement for the Kodak Sepia Toner
that was discontinued. Kodak now only sells Sepia toner
II which I don't like.
Cheers,
Bogdan
I am once again in posession of some reference
material. In fact, its a new (to me) 1945 edition of the
_Photo-Lab-Index_ I picked up today at a swap meet here.
This one seems to have been updated for a time but most of
the original material is still there.
There are some intersting toning formulas in it, a
couple that I don't remember seeing before. I am posting a
couple of bleach and redevelop formulas because Bogdan asked
about this type of toner. None I can find here use sodium
hydroxide.
Kodak published several Sepia toner formulas but only
one is for paper. The others are for motion picture prints
or lantern slides. Perhaps these would also work for paper.
Kodak T-7a Sepia Toner
Stock Bleaching Solution A
Potassium ferricyanide 75.0 grams
Potassium bromide 75.0 grams
Potassium oxalate 195.0 grams
Acetic acid, 28% 40.0 ml
Water to make 2.0 liters
Stock Redeveloping Solution B
Sodium sulfide, desiccated 45.0 grams
Water to make 500.0 ml
Prepare bleaching bath as follows:
Stock solution A 500.0 ml
Water 500.0 ml
Prepare redeveloper as follows:
Stock solution B 125.0 ml
Water to make 1.0 liter
Bleach until there is only a faint trace of the halftones
remains and the black of the shadows has disappeared. Then
rinse thoroughly in cold water. This should take about one
minute.
Then redevelop in in the redeveloper. This should take about
30 seconds.
Wash toned prints for about 30 minutes in running water.
Note: The instructions require a hardening bath
following re-development. Some modern papers may still need
this, others will not. The hardener recommended is the stock
hardener for Kodak F-1 fixer diluted 1:16
Defender Re-Development Sepia Toner 4-T
Bleaching Solution
Water 1.0 liter
Potassium ferricyanide 13.7 grams
Potassium bromide 27.4 grams
Strong ammonia water (28%) 1.3 ml
Re-Developing Solution
Sodium sulfide, saturated solution* 7.8 ml
Potassium alum, saturated solution** 1.0 liter
*To make as saturated solution of sodium sulfide dissolve
15.0 grams of the sulfide, fused, or 42.0 grams of sodium
sulfide, crystals, in 100.0 ml of water at 65F.
**To make a saturated solution of alum dissolve 100.0 grams
of alum in 1.0 liter of water at 68F.
To use bleach prints in the bleacher until the image is
only faintly visible. Then wash until all traces of yellow
stain are removed.
Then redevelop in the redeveloping solution until the image
is completely redeveloped. Then wash thoroughly and dry.
Prints on rough surface paper should be dried before
bleaching.
Ansco (Agfa) 221 Sepia Toner
Solution 1 (Bleach)
Water (at 125F or 52C) 750.0 ml
Potassium ferricyanide 50.0 grams
Potassium bromide 10.0 grams
Sodium carbonate, monohydrated 20.0 grams
Water to make 1.0 liter
Solution 2 (Redeveloper)
Sodium sulfide, desiccated 45.0 grams
Water to make 500.0 ml
For use as described below dilute 1 part solution 2 with 8
parts water.
Bleach in the bleaching solution until the image is
converted to a very light brown color (should take about 1
minute). Then wash for about 10 to 15 minutes and redevelop
in solution 2 (re-developer). Redevelopment should take
about 1 minute. After toning prints should be washed for
about 30 minutes. If the toner leaves sediment which results
in finger marks or streaks on the print it should be
immersed for a few seconds in a 3% solution of acetic acid
after which a 10 minute wash is necessary.
3% is about double the strength of a normal stop bath.
These are what I have on hand at the moment.
I do not know what the purpose of the oxalate in the
Kodak formula is for.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
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- Follow-Ups:
- [pure-silver] Re: Sepia Toners
- From: Bogdan Karasek
- [pure-silver] Re: Sepia Toners
- From: Eric Nelson
- References:
- [pure-silver] Sodium Hydroxide = Red Devil Lye
- From: Bogdan Karasek
- [pure-silver] Re: Sodium Hydroxide = Red Devil Lye
- From: Richard Knoppow
- [pure-silver] Re: Sodium Hydroxide = Red Devil Lye
- From: Bogdan Karasek
Other related posts:
- » [pure-silver] Sepia Toners
- » [pure-silver] Re: Sepia Toners
- » [pure-silver] Re: Sepia Toners
- » [pure-silver] Re: Sepia Toners
- » [pure-silver] Re: Sepia Toners
- » [pure-silver] Re: Sepia Toners
- » [pure-silver] Re: Sepia Toners
- » [pure-silver] Re: Sepia Toners
- » [pure-silver] Re: Sepia Toners
- » [pure-silver] Re: Sepia Toners
- » [pure-silver] Re: Sepia Toners
Hello Richard,The formula for the Sepia toner is from the "digitaltruth.com" site, under technical data section where they list 130 darkroom formulas; second down from the "massive dev chart". They have one formula for Sepia toner..... that's the one I want to try.
I'm trying to find a replacement for the Kodak Sepia Toner that was discontinued. Kodak now only sells Sepia toner II which I don't like.
Cheers, Bogdan
- [pure-silver] Re: Sepia Toners
- From: Bogdan Karasek
- [pure-silver] Re: Sepia Toners
- From: Eric Nelson
- [pure-silver] Sodium Hydroxide = Red Devil Lye
- From: Bogdan Karasek
- [pure-silver] Re: Sodium Hydroxide = Red Devil Lye
- From: Richard Knoppow
- [pure-silver] Re: Sodium Hydroxide = Red Devil Lye
- From: Bogdan Karasek