[pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs

I use rapid fix one-shot, but I only need 60 ml stock solution per film.
When I develop several films, the 2nd bath becomes the 1st for the next
film. I had bad experiences with under-fixed Tgrain films in the past.





Regards



Ralph W. Lambrecht

http://www.darkroomagic.com







On 2006-06-01 00:55, "Eric Nelson" <emanmb@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> I guess my point is one could be scientific about it
> and test clearing times and so forth (perfectly valid
> methods),  but by using a time like 2 3 minute baths
> or one 5 minute bath, one can cover all the bases
> easily and use our higher mental skills to figure ut
> whats for dinner instead. =)
> Kodak Rapid fix has a capacity of 60 rolls of T grain
> film or 120 rolls of non-t grain film per gallon.  I
> mark off the rolls run on my 1/2 gallon bottle and
> once I hit 30, it's time for a new batch. I don't
> differentiate between film types.
> Eric
> --- "Ralph W. Lambrecht" <info@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> wrote:
> 
>> I was also not able to measure a loss of shadow
>> density until 8 minutes in
>> rapid fix. All my films are always fixed twice for 3
>> minutes.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Regards
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Ralph W. Lambrecht
>> 
>> http://www.darkroomagic.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On 2006-06-01 00:00, "Eric Nelson"
>> <emanmb@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>> 
>>> Maybe the techs at Kodak Professional are crazy
>> but
>>> they've told me several time that the "too long in
>> the
>>> fixing bath" issue we were all taught to fear, is
>> a
>>> myth insofar as film is concerned.  i.e. that the
>>> shadow/midtone whatever info would be
>> lost/dissolved
>>> or whatever if fixed for too long.  They said they
>> ran
>>> tests and fixxing could be as long as 6 minutes in
>>> Rapid Fix. 
>>> 
>>> Given that, I standardized with 5 minutes for
>> fixing
>>> here, and; I NEVER fix more than 30 rolls per 1/2
>>> gallon, I use HCA with agitation (Jobo) for 1-3
>>> minutes. A minute is fine but longer won't hurt
>>> anything, and I NEVER have purple negs whether it
>> be
>>> T-Max or otherwise.
>>> 
>>> Different films will have a different color.
>> PlusX
>>> looks blue for example, and a stack of processed
>> Tri-x
>>> sheet film waiting to be sleeved has that purple
>>> color, yet individually the sheets look perfect.
>>> Eric   
>>> 
>>> --- Richard Knoppow <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> From: "Adrienne Moumin"
>>>> <photowonder2010@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>>>> To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>>> Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 1:42 PM
>>>> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> Belated & heartfelt thanks to all who took the
>>>> time to 
>>>>> respond, it took me a bit to bounce back after
>> all
>>>> the 
>>>>> holiday weekend schlepping!
>>>>> 
>>>>> From her comments, I think my friend is using
>> both
>>>> TMax 
>>>>> and Tri-X.  I think after all of everyone's help
>>>> she 
>>>>> shouldn't have the problem again!
>>>>> 
>>>>> As is often the case in life as well as
>>>> photography, an
>>>>> answer begets another question in reference  to
>>>> this 
>>>>> excerpt:
>>>>> 
>>>>> The old rule of thumb still holds, measure the
>>>> clearing
>>>>> time and fix for double this time. The old rule
>> is
>>>> also 
>>>>> that
>>>>> the fixer should be discarded when clearing time
>>>> doubles.
>>>>> This might be OK for a two bath system but IMO
>> is
>>>> well
>>>>> beyond the safe limit for a single bath.
>>>>> 
>>>>> ---
>>>>> Richard Knoppow
>>>>> Los Angeles, CA, USA
>>>>> dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> How does one know when the clearing time should
>> be
>>>> 
>>>>> increased?
>>>>> 
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>> Adrienne Moumin
>>>> 
>>>>    By fixing out a scrap of film occasionally.
>> Use a
>>>> scrap 
>>>> of the film you originally tested with. Soak it
>> in
>>>> plain 
>>>> water for 2 or 3 minutes (longer is OK) and then
>> fix
>>>> it and 
>>>> watch to see when the cloudiness disappears. The
>>>> reason for 
>>>> soaking in water is that the rate of fixing for
>> wet
>>>> film is 
>>>> different from dry film. Since the film is wet in
>>>> practice 
>>>> it should be wet when testing.
>>>> 
>>>>    Its important to understand that clearing is
>> not
>>>> the same 
>>>> as fixing. The film can be visually clear and
>> still
>>>> have 
>>>> enough halide left in it to cause trouble later.
>>>> However, 
>>>> the time it takes to clear is a good indication
>> of
>>>> the 
>>>> amount of silver dissolved in the hypo.
>>>> 
>>>>    Another test is to use a solution of Potassium
>>>> Iodide. 
>>>> When this is added to fixer it combines with the
>>>> silver to 
>>>> form Silver Iodide in the form of a cream colored
>>>> cloud. The 
>>>> amount of dissolved silver which results in a
>> cloud
>>>> which is 
>>>> not immedediately dissipated depends on the
>> dilution
>>>> of the 
>>>> test solution. Kodak gives instructions for
>> testing
>>>> both 
>>>> single and double baths but I think there is an
>>>> error in the 
>>>> instructions for the two bath system. I have not
>>>> been able 
>>>> to substantiate this. In any case, its easy to
>> see
>>>> when film 
>>>> clears and its a more direct test.
>>>> 
>>>>    The degree of fixing can also be tested using
>> a
>>>> solution 
>>>> of either Sodium sulfide or Kodak Rapid Selenium
>>>> Toner, 
>>>> diluted 1:9.   The Sulfide test is standard. KRST
>>>> can be 
>>>> used provided the film or paper is well washed
>>>> because it 
>>>> fails if there is a lot of residual hypo.
>>>>    A drop or two of the test solution is placed
>> on a
>>>> clear 
>>>> area of the film or paper and allowed to stand
>> for
>>>> about 2 
>>>> minutes. It is then rinsed off. There should be
>> no
>>>> residual 
>>>> stain. Both Sulfide and Selenium will "tone"
>> silver
>>>> halide 
>>>> or incomplete fixer reaction products as readily
>> as
>>>> metallic 
>>>> silver so any stain will indicate the presence of
>>>> silver in 
>>>> some form. Since this method tests the actual
>>>> performance of
>>>> the fixer it is probably the best test. When this
>>>> test is 
>>>> used on paper I suggest using a scrap that has
>> been
>>>> processed along with the prints. The reason is
>> that
>>>> prints 
>>>> or film that has been tested should be washed
>>>> following the 
>>>> test, which is, of course, not necessary when a
>>>> scrap is 
>>>> used. Also, the stain, if it develops, is
>> permanent.
>>>> The 
>>>> film or paper can be re-fixed in fresh fixer but
>>>> refixing 
>>>> will not remove the stain.
>>>>    This residual silver test should be run on a
>>>> routine 
>>>> basis where permanence is of concern. Also, it
>> will
>>>> show up 
>>>> prints that will give problems when toned ahead
>> of
>>>> time.
>>>> 
>>>> ---
>>>> Richard Knoppow
>>>> Los Angeles, CA, USA
>>>> dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> 
>> 
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>>> 
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