[pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs

I guess my point is one could be scientific about it
and test clearing times and so forth (perfectly valid
methods),  but by using a time like 2 3 minute baths
or one 5 minute bath, one can cover all the bases
easily and use our higher mental skills to figure ut
whats for dinner instead. =)
Kodak Rapid fix has a capacity of 60 rolls of T grain
film or 120 rolls of non-t grain film per gallon.  I
mark off the rolls run on my 1/2 gallon bottle and
once I hit 30, it's time for a new batch. I don't
differentiate between film types. 
Eric
--- "Ralph W. Lambrecht" <info@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:

> I was also not able to measure a loss of shadow
> density until 8 minutes in
> rapid fix. All my films are always fixed twice for 3
> minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> 
> 
> Ralph W. Lambrecht
> 
> http://www.darkroomagic.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On 2006-06-01 00:00, "Eric Nelson"
> <emanmb@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> 
> > Maybe the techs at Kodak Professional are crazy
> but
> > they've told me several time that the "too long in
> the
> > fixing bath" issue we were all taught to fear, is
> a
> > myth insofar as film is concerned.  i.e. that the
> > shadow/midtone whatever info would be
> lost/dissolved
> > or whatever if fixed for too long.  They said they
> ran
> > tests and fixxing could be as long as 6 minutes in
> > Rapid Fix. 
> > 
> > Given that, I standardized with 5 minutes for
> fixing
> > here, and; I NEVER fix more than 30 rolls per 1/2
> > gallon, I use HCA with agitation (Jobo) for 1-3
> > minutes. A minute is fine but longer won't hurt
> > anything, and I NEVER have purple negs whether it
> be
> > T-Max or otherwise.
> > 
> > Different films will have a different color. 
> PlusX
> > looks blue for example, and a stack of processed
> Tri-x
> > sheet film waiting to be sleeved has that purple
> > color, yet individually the sheets look perfect.
> > Eric   
> > 
> > --- Richard Knoppow <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> wrote:
> > 
> >> 
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Adrienne Moumin"
> >> <photowonder2010@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> >> To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >> Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 1:42 PM
> >> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
> >> 
> >> 
> >>> Belated & heartfelt thanks to all who took the
> >> time to 
> >>> respond, it took me a bit to bounce back after
> all
> >> the 
> >>> holiday weekend schlepping!
> >>> 
> >>> From her comments, I think my friend is using
> both
> >> TMax 
> >>> and Tri-X.  I think after all of everyone's help
> >> she 
> >>> shouldn't have the problem again!
> >>> 
> >>> As is often the case in life as well as
> >> photography, an 
> >>> answer begets another question in reference  to
> >> this 
> >>> excerpt:
> >>> 
> >>> The old rule of thumb still holds, measure the
> >> clearing
> >>> time and fix for double this time. The old rule
> is
> >> also 
> >>> that
> >>> the fixer should be discarded when clearing time
> >> doubles.
> >>> This might be OK for a two bath system but IMO
> is
> >> well
> >>> beyond the safe limit for a single bath.
> >>> 
> >>> ---
> >>> Richard Knoppow
> >>> Los Angeles, CA, USA
> >>> dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >>> 
> >>> 
> >>> How does one know when the clearing time should
> be
> >> 
> >>> increased?
> >>> 
> >>> Thanks,
> >>> Adrienne Moumin
> >> 
> >>    By fixing out a scrap of film occasionally.
> Use a
> >> scrap 
> >> of the film you originally tested with. Soak it
> in
> >> plain 
> >> water for 2 or 3 minutes (longer is OK) and then
> fix
> >> it and 
> >> watch to see when the cloudiness disappears. The
> >> reason for 
> >> soaking in water is that the rate of fixing for
> wet
> >> film is 
> >> different from dry film. Since the film is wet in
> >> practice 
> >> it should be wet when testing.
> >> 
> >>    Its important to understand that clearing is
> not
> >> the same 
> >> as fixing. The film can be visually clear and
> still
> >> have 
> >> enough halide left in it to cause trouble later.
> >> However, 
> >> the time it takes to clear is a good indication
> of
> >> the 
> >> amount of silver dissolved in the hypo.
> >> 
> >>    Another test is to use a solution of Potassium
> >> Iodide. 
> >> When this is added to fixer it combines with the
> >> silver to 
> >> form Silver Iodide in the form of a cream colored
> >> cloud. The 
> >> amount of dissolved silver which results in a
> cloud
> >> which is 
> >> not immedediately dissipated depends on the
> dilution
> >> of the 
> >> test solution. Kodak gives instructions for
> testing
> >> both 
> >> single and double baths but I think there is an
> >> error in the 
> >> instructions for the two bath system. I have not
> >> been able 
> >> to substantiate this. In any case, its easy to
> see
> >> when film 
> >> clears and its a more direct test.
> >> 
> >>    The degree of fixing can also be tested using
> a
> >> solution 
> >> of either Sodium sulfide or Kodak Rapid Selenium
> >> Toner, 
> >> diluted 1:9.   The Sulfide test is standard. KRST
> >> can be 
> >> used provided the film or paper is well washed
> >> because it 
> >> fails if there is a lot of residual hypo.
> >>    A drop or two of the test solution is placed
> on a
> >> clear 
> >> area of the film or paper and allowed to stand
> for
> >> about 2 
> >> minutes. It is then rinsed off. There should be
> no
> >> residual 
> >> stain. Both Sulfide and Selenium will "tone"
> silver
> >> halide 
> >> or incomplete fixer reaction products as readily
> as
> >> metallic 
> >> silver so any stain will indicate the presence of
> >> silver in 
> >> some form. Since this method tests the actual
> >> performance of 
> >> the fixer it is probably the best test. When this
> >> test is 
> >> used on paper I suggest using a scrap that has
> been
> >> processed along with the prints. The reason is
> that
> >> prints 
> >> or film that has been tested should be washed
> >> following the 
> >> test, which is, of course, not necessary when a
> >> scrap is 
> >> used. Also, the stain, if it develops, is
> permanent.
> >> The 
> >> film or paper can be re-fixed in fresh fixer but
> >> refixing 
> >> will not remove the stain.
> >>    This residual silver test should be run on a
> >> routine 
> >> basis where permanence is of concern. Also, it
> will
> >> show up 
> >> prints that will give problems when toned ahead
> of
> >> time.
> >> 
> >> ---
> >> Richard Knoppow
> >> Los Angeles, CA, USA
> >> dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >> 
> >> 
> >
>
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> > 
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