[pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- From: "Adrienne Moumin" <photowonder2010@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 16:42:10 -0400
Belated & heartfelt thanks to all who took the time to respond, it took me a
bit to bounce back after all the holiday weekend schlepping!
From her comments, I think my friend is using both TMax and Tri-X. I think
after all of everyone's help she shouldn't have the problem again!
As is often the case in life as well as photography, an answer begets
another question in reference to this excerpt:
The old rule of thumb still holds, measure the clearing
time and fix for double this time. The old rule is also that
the fixer should be discarded when clearing time doubles.
This might be OK for a two bath system but IMO is well
beyond the safe limit for a single bath.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
How does one know when the clearing time should be increased?
Thanks,
Adrienne Moumin
***************************************
on the web at: www.picturexhibit.com
Additional work at Art@Large, NYC:
http://tinyfineart.com/artists3/amou/amou.htm
***************************************
From: FreeLists Mailing List Manager <ecartis@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Reply-To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: pure-silver digest users <ecartis@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: pure-silver Digest V3 #146
Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 02:05:00 -0400 (EDT)
pure-silver Digest Tue, 30 May 2006 Volume: 03 Issue: 146
In This Issue:
[pure-silver] clip test
[pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
[pure-silver] Re: clip test
[pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
[pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ...
[pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ...
[pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ...
[pure-silver] Re: Increasing Grain
[pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ...
[pure-silver] Re: Increasing Grain
[pure-silver] storing developer solutions (was Re: Re: HC 11
[pure-silver] catching up (was Re: Re: Adox)
[pure-silver] Uncle Dick's Marriage Counseling
[pure-silver] catching up II (was Re: Re: Adox)
[pure-silver] Re: Adox
[pure-silver] catching up (Re: Re: Adox)
[pure-silver] Re: catching up (Re: Re: Adox)
[pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ...
[pure-silver] Re: catching up (Re: Re: Adox)
[pure-silver] Re: catching up (Re: Re: Adox)
[pure-silver] Re: storing developer solutions
[pure-silver] Re: catching up II
[pure-silver] Efke 25 speed (was catching up (Re: Re: Adox)
[pure-silver] Re: storing developer solutions
[pure-silver] Re: storing developer solutions (was Re: Re: H
[pure-silver] Re: Efke 25 speed (was catching up (Re: Re: A
[pure-silver] Re: catching up II
[pure-silver] Re: catching up II
[pure-silver] Re: Efke 25 speed (was catching up (Re: Re: A
[pure-silver] was:catching up II, now digi latitude
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 06:53:31 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [pure-silver] clip test
From: sstoney@xxxxxxx
> sstoney@xxxxxxx wrote:
>> I just shot a roll of arista.edu ultra in 35mm format. My regular
>> developer is DDX 1:4. The box does not give times for DDX. Does
anyone
>> have an idea of what time would be good to start with? The box gives
>> times for Arista 76 (like D76), Arista premium liquid developer 1:9,
>> TMAX
>> developer 1:4, and Marathon film developer. Are any of these pretty
>> close
>> to DDX? The speed of the film is 100.
>>
>> thanks,
>>
>> --shannon
>>
>>
> If you can ---do a clip test of about 3 frames at the start of the role
> with DDX at the average time of all the ones you mention. That will give
> you an idea on whether to increase or reduce development.
How do you do a clip test?
--shannon
------------------------------
From: "Gareth Jolly" <garethjolly@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 22:03:43 +1000
Found my Film Developing Cookbook (by Anchell & Troop) and can now be
slightly more helpful
- Developers or stop baths high in potassium salts can therefore
significantly lengthen fixing time.
- This is because the presence of potassium salts in the fixing process can
significantly lengthen fixing time. The reason is that they partially
convert ammonium or sodium thiosulfate to potassium thiosulfate
The film developing cookbook recommends
- not using a stop bath based on potassium metabisulfite or another
potassium salt
- if using a water stop, either have at least 60 seconds rinse in running
water or five complete changes - before placing in the fixer
See page 107
Regards
Gareth
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 9:00 AM
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Foy" <dfoy@xxxxxxxx>
> To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 12:26 PM
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
>
>
>> Assuming it's not T-Max, possibly it's not a sensitizing dye, but
rather
>> an anti-halation dye between the emulsion and the base. It should
>> decolorize in the fixer, and failing that it should wash out with
water.
>> Sometimes it doesn't.
>>
>> David Foy
>>
> T-Max and Delta films are not the only ones with persistent
sensitizing
> dyes.
> Anti-halation dye, in most B&W films, is in the back coating and is
> decolorized by the sulfite in both developer and fixing bath. Color
films
> typically have an anti-halation layer as you describe, between the
> emulsion and subbing layer. This is actually a more effective place to
> have it since it eliminates reflection from the top surface of the
support
> as well as the back surface. In addition, it prevents fogging from light
> conducted along the support.
> Residual dye in the emulsion can come from a small amount of residual
> silver halide due to inadequate fixing, or, sometimes the dye seems
simply
> to bind to the gelatin. While the tint on T-Max is often blamed on
> incomplete fixing I have found that extended fixing times do not seem to
> cure it. Rather treating with a sulfite wash aid, and probably any
> alkaline bath, will cause the bond to break and the stuff is washed out.
> This may be due to the change in electrical charge in the emulsion from
> going to an alkaline pH.
> Since wash aid is nearly all sulfite it should also decolorize
> anti-halation dye but I would be suspicious about access of processing
> solutions to the back of the film when the anti-halation dye is present.
> Inadequate fixing can also result in a "stain" or fog on the film.
This
> will usually be removed by refixing in _fresh_ fixer. The residual
silver
> halides and fixer reaction products from incomplete fixing begin to
change
> wtih time so refixing should be done as soon after the original fixing
as
> possible. After a few weeks there may be reaction products that have
> changed so that they can no longer be made soluble.
> Fixing is a complex process that takes place in stages although the
> transformation is continuous from stage to stage. The insoluble silver
> halide of the emulsion is eventually made soluble so it will wash out in
> the fixer and subsequent wash. A certain number of free thiosulfate ions
> are necessary to completely react the halide into a soluble form. If the
> fixer is partially exhausted there may not be enough free ions available
> to carry out this reaction no matter how long fixing is continued.
> The capacity of a single bath to fix out to archival levels is quite
> limited. It is strongly recommended that a two bath fixing system be
> adopted. Film and paper are fixed for half the total time in each bath.
> The bulk of silver comes out in the first bath leaving the second one
> fairly fresh. This method will usually result in complete fixing and is
> significantly more economical than a single bath because its capacity is
> from 4 to 10 times as great.
> A sulfite wash aid will also aid in releasing some reaction products
> which will otherwise be bound to the gelatin or to the image silver.
Since
> sensitizing dye can be bound to these materials the treatment will also
> get rid of the dye.
> Ammonium thiosulfate fixer has a greater capacity than Sodium
> Thiosulfate fixer but is still limited in capacity so even when using it
a
> two bath system is wise. Ammonium thiosulfate (rapid fixer) has a higher
> tollerance for Iodide ions from film than Sodium fixer but complete,
> archival, fixing can be done using either type.
> The old rule of thumb still holds, measure the clearing time and fix
> for double this time. The old rule is also that the fixer should be
> discarded when clearing time doubles. This might be OK for a two bath
> system but IMO is well beyond the safe limit for a single bath.
>
> ---
> Richard Knoppow
> Los Angeles, CA, USA
> dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
=============================================================================================================
> To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your
> account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you
> subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
>
------------------------------
From: Nick Zentena <zentena@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: clip test
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 08:19:42 -0400
On Tuesday 30 May 2006 07:53, sstoney@xxxxxxx wrote:
> > sstoney@xxxxxxx wrote:
> >
> > If you can ---do a clip test of about 3 frames at the start of the
role
> > with DDX at the average time of all the ones you mention. That will
give
> > you an idea on whether to increase or reduce development.
>
> How do you do a clip test?
Clip part of the roll off and develop it.
Nick
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 08:22:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
From: Ryuji Suzuki <rs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Unless they are talking about a very large amount of carryover, weak
fix, etc. that is not an issue. Especially with rapid fix, don't worry
about that stuff. Several Ilford developers contain a lot of potassium
salts but they don't cause problems when used as directed.
Also, this is unrelated to purplish negs. Purplish color often come
from the film base itself. Nothing can reduce that.
Sensitizing dye can be washed out by longer washing aid treatment and
longer washing time.
Antihalation dye is nothing to worry about. They are washed out by
presoak, or bleached by the developer.
There is one more suspected cause of bluish color in some cases, and
I'm investigating a way to reduce it... will follow when I get more
definite results.
From: "Gareth Jolly" <garethjolly@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 22:03:43 +1000
> Found my Film Developing Cookbook (by Anchell & Troop) and can now be
> slightly more helpful
>
> - Developers or stop baths high in potassium salts can therefore
> significantly lengthen fixing time.
> - This is because the presence of potassium salts in the fixing process
can
> significantly lengthen fixing time. The reason is that they partially
> convert ammonium or sodium thiosulfate to potassium thiosulfate
>
> The film developing cookbook recommends
>
> - not using a stop bath based on potassium metabisulfite or another
> potassium salt
> - if using a water stop, either have at least 60 seconds rinse in
running
> water or five complete changes - before placing in the fixer
>
> See page 107
>
> Regards
> Gareth
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 09:42:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sauerwald Mark <mark_sauerwald@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ...
I too mix the stock solution, and then put it in 2oz
glass bottles, which I fill to the brim so that when
capped, there is no air in the bottle. I never use
partial bottles and just mix it up as I need it. Most
common is one little bottle plus water to make 16oz -
which is enough for most of what I do.
--- EJ Neilsen <ej@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I live in the camp of mixing up my HC110 bottle to a
> stock solution and then
> making working dilution from that. The only time in
> 30 years of using it
> that I have not had consistent results when was
> someone else mixed it and
> didn't mix the stock solution well.
>
> As for determining weight or density, take a vessel_
> 100ml graduate,
> 1) weight it = tare weight,
> 2) fill it with 100ml weight it = tare weight +
> solution weight,
>
> 2-1 = X solution weight/100ml
>
> Divide X by 100 and get g/ml,
>
> And on and on until you set up a system to measure
> weigh and mix...
>
>
> So much simpler to just make a stock solution and
> move on.
>
> Eric
>
>
> Eric Neilsen Photography
> 4101 Commerce Street
> Suite 9
> Dallas, TX 75226
> http://e.neilsen.home.att.net
> http://ericneilsenphotography.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:pure-silver-
> > bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Luis Miguel
> Castañeda
> > Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 3:39 PM
> > To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: [pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ...
> >
> >
> > On 28/05/2006, at 19:00, Georges Giralt wrote:
> >
> > > So, anyone knows for sure the density of HC 110
> syrup ?
> > > Or am I obliged to devise it myself ?
> >
> > There it was two kinds of syrup European and US
> (not sure if there
> > are two still), so it depends.
> > A syringe always worked fine for me, Simple
> calculation up to the
> > volume in ml will give you a consistent result for
> every dilution.
> >
> > my 2 cents.
> >
>
==========================================================================
> > ===================================
> > To unsubscribe from this list, go to
> www.freelists.org and logon to your
> > account (the same e-mail address and password you
> set-up when you
> > subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
>
>
============================================================================================================To
> unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org
> and logon to your account (the same e-mail address
> and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and
> unsubscribe from there.
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ...
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 12:59:35 -0400
From: "Koch, Gerald" <gkoch02@xxxxxxxxxx>
I have no problems measuring HC-110 concentrate using a polyethylene 10
ml graduated cylinder. The only thing that is a bit unusual is that
there is little or no meniscus. I dilute 1:50 for convenience and use
the times recommended for dilution H (2X dilution B).
The diluted stock solution has limited keeping properties while the
concentrate is eternal. I forget Kodak's recomendation, 3 months for
partially filled bottles?
Jerry
------------------------------
From: "EJ Neilsen" <ej@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ...
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 12:18:37 -0500
Which is why it goes in a bottle you can squeeze the air out of to keep it
fresh(er).
EJ
Eric Neilsen Photography
4101 Commerce Street, Suite 9
Dallas, TX 75226
214-827-8301
http://ericneilsenphotography.com
Skype : ejprinter
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:pure-silver-
> bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Koch, Gerald
> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 12:00 PM
> To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ...
>
> I have no problems measuring HC-110 concentrate using a
> polyethylene 10
> ml graduated cylinder. The only thing that is a bit unusual is
> that
> there is little or no meniscus. I dilute 1:50 for convenience
> and use
> the times recommended for dilution H (2X dilution B).
>
> The diluted stock solution has limited keeping properties while
> the
> concentrate is eternal. I forget Kodak's recomendation, 3
> months for
> partially filled bottles?
>
> Jerry
> ====================================To unsubscribe from this
> list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the
> same e-mail address and password you set-up when you
> subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 10:29:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Robert Krawiec <robk64@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Increasing Grain
I tired this combination at results are great.
I read somewhere ages ago that Kodak 3200 in Universal
PQ developer is meant to produce amazing grain, but I
can't find any info on this...Anyone tried it?
Rob
--- Gianni Rondinini <bugbarbeq@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> use rodinal and grains will be as big as golf balls
> when printed on
> 8x10 :)
>
> regards,
> --
> Gianni Rondinini (30, tanti, RA)
> Nikon user - Bmw driver
> http://bugbarbeq.deviantart.com
>
============================================================================================================To
> unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org
> and logon to your account (the same e-mail address
> and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and
> unsubscribe from there.
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ...
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 13:34:57 -0400
From: "Koch, Gerald" <gkoch02@xxxxxxxxxx>
Bottles that are soft enough to squeeze may not be the best to use since
they may allow oxygen to diffuse into the contents. The accordian style
sold in photo stores are particularly bad in this respect. PET or PETE
bottles while more rigid and not really squeezable are probably a better
choice.
-----Original Message-----
From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of EJ Neilsen
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 1:19 PM
To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ...
Which is why it goes in a bottle you can squeeze the air out of to keep
it fresh(er).
EJ=20
Eric Neilsen Photography
4101 Commerce Street, Suite 9
Dallas, TX 75226
214-827-8301
http://ericneilsenphotography.com
=20
Skype : ejprinter
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:pure-silver-=20
> bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Koch, Gerald
> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 12:00 PM
> To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ...
>=20
> I have no problems measuring HC-110 concentrate using a polyethylene=20
> 10 ml graduated cylinder. The only thing that is a bit unusual is
> that
> there is little or no meniscus. I dilute 1:50 for convenience
> and use
> the times recommended for dilution H (2X dilution B).
>=20
> The diluted stock solution has limited keeping properties while the
> concentrate is eternal. I forget Kodak's recomendation, 3
> months for
> partially filled bottles?
>=20
> Jerry
> =
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3DTo unsubscribe from this list, go=20
> to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail=20
> address and password you set-up when you
> subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your
account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you
subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
------------------------------
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Increasing Grain
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 13:40:05 -0400
From: "Koch, Gerald" <gkoch02@xxxxxxxxxx>
I remember seeing a very effective portrait which used grain to great
effect. The photographer developed the film in hot Dektol and then
placed the film in a cold stop bath to reticulate the film. This
enhanced the grain effect.
-----Original Message-----
From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Stein
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 6:54 PM
To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [pure-silver] Increasing Grain
Dear Friends,
I want to experiment with Ilford Delta 3200 film in 35mm size with
the=20
view to simulating the grainy effects seen in some bromoil works. Any=20
suggestions as to how the grain could be increased?
Thank you.
Uncle Dick=20
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your
account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you
subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 12:56:20 -0600
From: David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] storing developer solutions (was Re: Re: HC 110
question
Winemaking stores sell high-barrier Mylar "bags" meant to hold home-made
wine. They're the same bags used in the bag-in-a-box "box wines."
I realize that no-one on this list has ever sunk to the depths of
drinking the kinds of wines that come in boxes, so I probably should
explain in considerable depth exactly what these are...
but what with the pressures of time etc etc, I must defer to another
day...also let me make it clear that *I* have had no personal experience
with these so-called "wines." Yuk.
These bags work exceptionally well. You can exclude all of the air, and
because they are a laminate of high-density polyester and metal foil,
their gas permeability is extremely low, much lower than any plastic
bottle with the possible exception of rigid PET. I base this statement
on what the manufacturers say about the laminate material, and what
bottle manufacturers say about PET and HDPE. It's all googleable for the
curious.
I store 5-litre quantities of my own Bluefire HR developer concentrate
in them between bottling runs. Longevity tests indicate zero loss of
activity in nearly two years (same with full, capped rigid PET bottles),
versus an insignificant yet measurable loss associated with full, capped
HDPE. I use them to store HC-110 stock for months at a time, and have
not yet seen any obvious oxygen problems.
They're very inexpensive, something like $4 for a 5-litre bag. They're
very easy to wash and re-use.
David Foy
Koch, Gerald wrote:
> Bottles that are soft enough to squeeze may not be the best to use since
> they may allow oxygen to diffuse into the contents. The accordian style
> sold in photo stores are particularly bad in this respect. PET or PETE
> bottles while more rigid and not really squeezable are probably a better
> choice.
...
> quoting someone: Which is why it goes in a bottle you can squeeze the
air out of to keep
> it fresh(er).
>
...
>
...
>> who quoted someone else: The diluted stock solution has limited keeping
properties while the
>> concentrate is eternal. I forget Kodak's recomendation, 3
>> months for
>> partially filled bottles?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 13:20:10 -0600
From: David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] catching up (was Re: Re: Adox)
The Adox trademark in Canada is owned and registered by me. In Germany
and the US, it's owned and registered by Mirko Böddecker of Fotoimpex in
Berlin.
In the US, it was originally registered by John Minakais of J&C but his
registration is currently suspended pending what seems to be a review in
light of Mirko's registration. Complicated stuff. As most people on this
list would know, Mirko and John are affiliated.
Agfa (who had owned the mark) let it lapse. I did not know that Mirko
and John were reactivating it; they did not know I was. Our
registrations kicked in at more or less the same time, which is how we
found out about each other. So here we are.
David Foy
Nick Zentena wrote:
> On Thursday 18 May 2006 16:08, Justin F. Knotzke wrote:
>> Anyone heard of this company called Adox?
>>
>> http://www.adox.net/Products.htm
>>
>> They appear to be in Canada.. of all the god forsaken places!
>
>
> I don't think that's Adox. It's the Frugal photographer.
>
> http://www.frugalphotographer.com/index.htm
>
> http://www.efkefilm.com/
>
> Efke I think owns the Adox name now. I guess the Adox in Canada some
how got
> the name for Canada?
>
> Nick
>
=============================================================================================================
> To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your
account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you
subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 15:25:59 -0400
From: "Justin F. Knotzke" <jknotzke@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Uncle Dick's Marriage Counseling
I have been thinking, and thinking again about maybe making the jump
into wedding photography.
I decided to ask the venerable Uncle Dick for his Wisdom on the
subject. In all honesty, I expected a small email full of wit and advice
but nothing like a 13 part series!
With Uncle's permission, I decided to put it online for all to see.
It's fantastic, hilarious and very insightful.
Uncle, thanks again. After reading, and re-reading your lessons I
think I might actually take a stab at it.
Thanks again.
You can read it all here: http://www.knotzke.ca/weddings/
If you see any typos, broken links, things out of whack, please let
me know.
J
--
Justin F. Knotzke
jknotzke@xxxxxxxxxx
http://www.shampoo.ca
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 13:27:34 -0600
From: David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] catching up II (was Re: Re: Adox)
The film is Agfa microfilm, spooled for me by Tura when they were still
in business, and edge-marked by them as "Pan Line." The next batch will
be spooled here and edge-marked "Bluefire Police."
It is well suited to pictorial photography when paired with a suitable
developer.
It is not sold as Adox, but as Bluefire Police. You are correct that it
is bad business to confuse customers.
David Foy
Ryuji Suzuki wrote:
> From: "Justin F. Knotzke" <jknotzke@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [pure-silver] Adox
> Date: Thu, 18 May 2006 16:08:45 -0400
>
>> Anyone heard of this company called Adox?
>
> I think it's a bad business decision on them to confuse market and
> potential users. Current b&w silver-halide photographers are not that
> naive as to believe the name means the same Adox technology.
>
> Their main product seems to be a respooled "line film" type graphic
> art film, for which they provide very little information. It says
> "single thin, hard, monodisperse ultra-fine grained" but if this is
> indeed true (plausible, for line film emulsion) it's clearly different
> from old Adox film, and also such single thin hard monodisperse
> emulsion is unsuitable for pictorial in-camera negative
> applications. If they have enough technology to make such emulsion, I
> don't understand why they don't extend it to make fine medium speed
> pictorial film. Emulsion part is not that difficult. High quality
> multilayer coating, drying and spooling in total darkness are the
> problem.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 13:33:44 -0600
From: David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Adox
The films your URL points to are Ilford FP4+ and HP5+ in custom packaging.
I believe Mirko Boeddeker will soon be making the former Efke KB25 and
KB100 (and R25 and R100) films available again in Adox branded
packaging. I am unclear about whether this will be packaging of existing
factory stocks of the Efke films, taken from storage, or a new coating.
David Foy
Jim Brick wrote:
> At 04:08 PM 5/18/2006 -0400, Justin F. Knotzke wrote:
>> Anyone heard of this company called Adox?
>>
>> http://www.adox.net/Products.htm
>>
>> They appear to be in Canada.. of all the god forsaken places!
>>
>> J
>
>
> I attended Brooks Institute of Photography 1959 - 1961. My roll film of
> choice, at school, was Adox KB14 and R14 (35mm & 120).
>
> It is available again from J and C Photo:
>
> http://www.jandcphoto.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=93
>
> in both 35mm and 120.
>
> I used Adox KB & R 14 for at least a decade. Great film. I don't believe
> that the current Adox film is exactly the same, but as soon as I use-up
> my current batch of Efke film, I'll try it again.
>
> Jim
>
=============================================================================================================
>
> To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your
> account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you
> subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 13:42:25 -0600
From: David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] catching up (Re: Re: Adox)
Fotokemika did not outsource much. They coated and packaged films and
papers in Croatia, at plants in Zagreb and Samobor, from 1948 until last
year. The two exceptions I know of were their Efkecolor 35mm films (from
Fuji) and their Efke b/w 400 speed film (from Ilford). There may have
been outsourced papers that I am not aware of.
David Foy
Tim Rudman wrote:
> As I understand they are sourced from both fotokemika and classic arts -
> which in turn were forte.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Georges Giralt
> Sent: 19 May 2006 12:27
> To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Adox
>
> Tim, As you seem to have good contact with Fotoimpex, could you please
tell
> us if the Adox papers are, now, Efke (like Emaks and Varicon) or as
> previously Forte papers ?
> I've a fridge full of PolyKaltton and PolyWarmtone from Forte (bought at
> Fotoimpex under the Classic or Adox names) and, when I'll had to re
> order, I'll want to know if it will be a close match or really different
?
> TIA !
> Tim Rudman a écrit :
>> This is correct. Mirko Boeddeker at FotoImpex in Berlin (+ association
>> with
>> JandC) is exporting it.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 21:58:14 +0200
From: "Edward C. Zimmermann" <edz@xxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: catching up (Re: Re: Adox)
Quoting David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx>:
> Fotokemika did not outsource much. They coated and packaged films and
> papers in Croatia, at plants in Zagreb and Samobor, from 1948 until last
> year.
Are they no longer coating?
--
--
Edward C. Zimmermann, Basis Systeme netzwerk, Munich
------------------------------
From: "EJ Neilsen" <ej@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ...
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 14:59:36 -0500
Yes, The old accordion bottles are terrible for holding their "new shape".
They were good for large volume quick use type storage like a working
solution that was going to get exhausted on the next use; a paper developer
that was still good and you planned on a few prints the next day.
Eric
Eric Neilsen Photography
4101 Commerce Street, Suite 9
Dallas, TX 75226
214-827-8301
http://ericneilsenphotography.com
Skype : ejprinter
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:pure-silver-
> bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Koch, Gerald
> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 12:35 PM
> To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ...
>
> Bottles that are soft enough to squeeze may not be the best to
> use since
> they may allow oxygen to diffuse into the contents. The
> accordian style
> sold in photo stores are particularly bad in this respect. PET
> or PETE
> bottles while more rigid and not really squeezable are probably
> a better
> choice.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of EJ
> Neilsen
> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 1:19 PM
> To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ...
>
>
> Which is why it goes in a bottle you can squeeze the air out of
> to keep
> it fresh(er).
>
> EJ
>
> Eric Neilsen Photography
> 4101 Commerce Street, Suite 9
> Dallas, TX 75226
> 214-827-8301
> http://ericneilsenphotography.com
>
> Skype : ejprinter
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:pure-silver-
> > bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Koch, Gerald
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 12:00 PM
> > To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: [pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ...
> >
> > I have no problems measuring HC-110 concentrate using a
> polyethylene
> > 10 ml graduated cylinder. The only thing that is a bit
> unusual is
> > that
> > there is little or no meniscus. I dilute 1:50 for
> convenience
> > and use
> > the times recommended for dilution H (2X dilution B).
> >
> > The diluted stock solution has limited keeping properties
> while the
> > concentrate is eternal. I forget Kodak's recomendation, 3
> > months for
> > partially filled bottles?
> >
> > Jerry
> > ====================================To unsubscribe from this
> list, go
> > to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-
> mail
> > address and password you set-up when you
> > subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
>
> ===============================================================
> =========
> =====================================
> To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and
> logon to your
> account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when
> you
> subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
> ====================================To unsubscribe from this
> list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the
> same e-mail address and password you set-up when you
> subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 14:36:29 -0600
From: David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: catching up (Re: Re: Adox)
I don't know. Fotokemika (the company that dated from 1948) was
liquidated in 2004. That's why I used the past tense.
During the liquidation Mirko Boeddeker and some Fotokemika employees
formed a successor company, called Fotokemika Nova, which is registered
at the same Samobor address as before liquidation.
There was a post elsewhere on this list saying "Efke" had re-established
themselves near Samobor, the implication being they're continuing the
factory business. I assume this new entity is the source of Mirko's Adox
brand films and papers. I don't know if they are coating, or are still
packaging from existing factory stocks out of the freezer. I assume
their coating capacity is intact, but I don't actually know that.
David Foy
Edward C. Zimmermann wrote:
> Quoting David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx>:
>
>> Fotokemika did not outsource much. They coated and packaged films and
>> papers in Croatia, at plants in Zagreb and Samobor, from 1948 until
last
>> year.
>
> Are they no longer coating?
>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 16:42:42 -0400
From: <genej2@xxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: catching up (Re: Re: Adox)
I'm just concerned about Efke 25. There's really nothing else quite like
it IMO. Any problem with availability. I have a few rolls left in the
freezer but will need more soon.
--
Be Just And Fear Not
---- David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I don't know. Fotokemika (the company that dated from 1948) was
> liquidated in 2004. That's why I used the past tense.
>
> During the liquidation Mirko Boeddeker and some Fotokemika employees
> formed a successor company, called Fotokemika Nova, which is registered
> at the same Samobor address as before liquidation.
>
> There was a post elsewhere on this list saying "Efke" had re-established
> themselves near Samobor, the implication being they're continuing the
> factory business. I assume this new entity is the source of Mirko's Adox
> brand films and papers. I don't know if they are coating, or are still
> packaging from existing factory stocks out of the freezer. I assume
> their coating capacity is intact, but I don't actually know that.
>
> David Foy
>
> Edward C. Zimmermann wrote:
> > Quoting David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx>:
> >
> >> Fotokemika did not outsource much. They coated and packaged films and
> >> papers in Croatia, at plants in Zagreb and Samobor, from 1948 until
last
> >> year.
> >
> > Are they no longer coating?
> >
>
=============================================================================================================
> To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your
account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you
subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 16:47:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: storing developer solutions
From: Ryuji Suzuki <rs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
From: David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] storing developer solutions (was Re: Re: HC 110
question ...)
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 12:56:20 -0600
> These bags work exceptionally well. You can exclude all of the air, and
> because they are a laminate of high-density polyester and metal foil,
> their gas permeability is extremely low, much lower than any plastic
> bottle with the possible exception of rigid PET. I base this statement
> on what the manufacturers say about the laminate material, and what
> bottle manufacturers say about PET and HDPE. It's all googleable for the
> curious.
Mylar is a trademark and the material used for Mylar products is
PET. I'm surprised that the bag/bottle manufacturer didn't tell you
that.
Gas permeability is a property of the material but the actual gas
barrier property depends on the thickness IN ADDITION to the
material. So thick PET bottle is better than those bags, as long as
air is not allowed in the bottle.
One common way to increase the barrier property is to use foil
lamination. Unless it is further laminated, puncture resistance may be
compromised. Well made aluminized PET bags are quite good.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 16:49:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: catching up II
From: Ryuji Suzuki <rs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
From: David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] catching up II (was Re: Re: Adox)
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 13:27:34 -0600
> It is well suited to pictorial photography when paired with a suitable
> developer.
And... low contrast image scene?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 15:01:52 -0600
From: David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Efke 25 speed (was catching up (Re: Re: Adox)
Go here: http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?pid=1000001795
Freestyle seems to have the full line in stock. The prices are excellent.
David Foy
genej2@xxxxxxx wrote:
> I'm just concerned about Efke 25. There's really nothing else quite
like it IMO. Any problem with availability. I have a few rolls left in
the freezer but will need more soon.
> --
> Be Just And Fear Not
>
> ---- David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx> wrote:
>> I don't know. Fotokemika (the company that dated from 1948) was
>> liquidated in 2004. That's why I used the past tense.
>>
>> During the liquidation Mirko Boeddeker and some Fotokemika employees
>> formed a successor company, called Fotokemika Nova, which is registered
>> at the same Samobor address as before liquidation.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 23:06:29 +0200
From: Georges Giralt <georges.giralt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: storing developer solutions
Ryuji Suzuki a écrit :
> From: David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [pure-silver] storing developer solutions (was Re: Re: HC 110
question ...)
> Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 12:56:20 -0600
>
>
>>These bags work exceptionally well. You can exclude all of the air, and
>>because they are a laminate of high-density polyester and metal foil,
>>their gas permeability is extremely low, much lower than any plastic
>>bottle with the possible exception of rigid PET. I base this statement
>>on what the manufacturers say about the laminate material, and what
>>bottle manufacturers say about PET and HDPE. It's all googleable for the
>>curious.
>
>
> Mylar is a trademark and the material used for Mylar products is
> PET. I'm surprised that the bag/bottle manufacturer didn't tell you
> that.
>
> Gas permeability is a property of the material but the actual gas
> barrier property depends on the thickness IN ADDITION to the
> material. So thick PET bottle is better than those bags, as long as
> air is not allowed in the bottle.
>
> One common way to increase the barrier property is to use foil
> lamination. Unless it is further laminated, puncture resistance may be
> compromised. Well made aluminized PET bags are quite good.
>
Hi !
As a French, I am accustomed to wine makers, and wine transportation.
When one goes to a wine maker and want to buy wine cheaply, the solution
is to buy 33 liters at a time in one of these bags called a "cubitainer"
which I think is a trademark. When at home the guy has to bottle it as
soon as possible because the wine will turn bad in a couple of days.
I will not put my products in such bags (if they're the same as yours,
which is unclear) and ask for permanence or air resistance.... If it's
wrrong for wine, it's not good for HC110 ;-) Afterwards, there is also
sulfite in some wines ;-)
I've devised the density of HC110 concentrate by wheighting a full new 1
litre bottle and an empty one. This sunday I'll make some experiments
using a triple beam balance and let you know how it goes.... (it is easy
to wheigh out because I use 1500 cc of chemistry in my Jobo tank used
outside the CPE2 ! (this helps for getting big arms))
HAve a nice day !
--
Ce message est constitué d'au moins 50 % d'électrons recyclés.
Aucun électron n'a été blessé ou forcé d'aucune manière
pendant l'écriture de ce message. S'il vous plaît aidez nous
à conserver nos ressources, recyclez vos électrons !
------------------------------
From: "EJ Neilsen" <ej@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: storing developer solutions (was Re: Re: HC 110
ques
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 16:06:35 -0500
They also work as pillows on canoe trips down the river. The first stop
however, does require you to drink a little : ) With a small group a small
bag/box wine can go quickly.
And yes, I do use those in my darkroom or something like them, for many
solutions. I should have said that bottles have been used more for diluted
solution that may be used over the next few days, and the bags are mostly
what I use for long term storage.
Eric Neilsen Photography
4101 Commerce Street, Suite 9
Dallas, TX 75226
214-827-8301
http://ericneilsenphotography.com
Skype : ejprinter
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:pure-silver-
> bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of David Foy
> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 1:56 PM
> To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [pure-silver] storing developer solutions (was Re: Re:
> HC 110 question ...)
>
> Winemaking stores sell high-barrier Mylar "bags" meant to hold
> home-made
> wine. They're the same bags used in the bag-in-a-box "box
> wines."
>
> I realize that no-one on this list has ever sunk to the depths
> of
> drinking the kinds of wines that come in boxes, so I probably
> should
> explain in considerable depth exactly what these are...
> but what with the pressures of time etc etc, I must defer to
> another
> day...also let me make it clear that *I* have had no personal
> experience
> with these so-called "wines." Yuk.
>
> These bags work exceptionally well. You can exclude all of the
> air, and
> because they are a laminate of high-density polyester and metal
> foil,
> their gas permeability is extremely low, much lower than any
> plastic
> bottle with the possible exception of rigid PET. I base this
> statement
> on what the manufacturers say about the laminate material, and
> what
> bottle manufacturers say about PET and HDPE. It's all
> googleable for the
> curious.
>
> I store 5-litre quantities of my own Bluefire HR developer
> concentrate
> in them between bottling runs. Longevity tests indicate zero
> loss of
> activity in nearly two years (same with full, capped rigid PET
> bottles),
> versus an insignificant yet measurable loss associated with
> full, capped
> HDPE. I use them to store HC-110 stock for months at a time,
> and have
> not yet seen any obvious oxygen problems.
>
> They're very inexpensive, something like $4 for a 5-litre bag.
> They're
> very easy to wash and re-use.
>
> David Foy
>
> Koch, Gerald wrote:
> > Bottles that are soft enough to squeeze may not be the best
> to use since
> > they may allow oxygen to diffuse into the contents. The
> accordian style
> > sold in photo stores are particularly bad in this respect.
> PET or PETE
> > bottles while more rigid and not really squeezable are
> probably a better
> > choice.
> ...
>
> > quoting someone: Which is why it goes in a bottle you can
> squeeze the air out of to keep
> > it fresh(er).
> >
> ...
> >
> ...
> >> who quoted someone else: The diluted stock solution has
> limited keeping properties while the
> >> concentrate is eternal. I forget Kodak's recomendation, 3
> >> months for
> >> partially filled bottles?
> ===============================================================
> ==============================================
> To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and
> logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you
> set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 23:10:19 +0200
From: Georges Giralt <georges.giralt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Efke 25 speed (was catching up (Re: Re: Adox)
David Foy a écrit :
> Go here: http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?pid=1000001795
> Freestyle seems to have the full line in stock. The prices are
excellent.
>
> David Foy
>
Efke film in Adox boxes is listed as availlable at Fotoimpex in Berlin
and at Retrophotographic in UK. It will make no sense for Fotoimpex to
invest in a company if this one has lost it's coating plant, IMHO.
I've in my fridge Efke sheet films in Efke boxes and in Adox boxes. same
stuff ! And great stuff BTW! I love a lot the 100 ISO one in sheet and
120 size.
Some of our German speakers can ask Mirko at Fotoimpex forum, just to be
sure ?
Have a nice day !
--
Ce message est constitué d'au moins 50 % d'électrons recyclés.
Aucun électron n'a été blessé ou forcé d'aucune manière
pendant l'écriture de ce message. S'il vous plaît aidez nous
à conserver nos ressources, recyclez vos électrons !
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 00:03:15 +0200
From: "Edward C. Zimmermann" <edz@xxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: catching up II
Quoting Ryuji Suzuki <rs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>:
> From: David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [pure-silver] catching up II (was Re: Re: Adox)
> Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 13:27:34 -0600
>
> > It is well suited to pictorial photography when paired with a suitable
> > developer.
>
> And... low contrast image scene?
No need. With a suitable developer and not "pushing" microfilm one can get
a
comparatively good latitude. Negatives might look thin to the eye but print
well and provide good tonality.
Have a look at some of these MINOX (that's 8x11mm negatives!) scans:
http://www.8x11film.com/spur/bilder01.html
http://www.8x11film.com/spur/bildergast02.html
(scans really don't do them justice)
--
--
Edward C. Zimmermann, Basis Systeme netzwerk, Munich
Office Leo (R&D):
Leopoldstrasse 53-55, D-80802 Munich,
Federal Republic of Germany
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 18:35:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: catching up II
From: Ryuji Suzuki <rs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Well, none of those images are as high contrast as my favorite subject
matters, such as nightscape, snow, bright reflections, etc... and many
of these things don't have "accurate" metering methods, so wide
latitude is important. (Another reason why I shoot film.)
From: "Edward C. Zimmermann" <edz@xxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: catching up II
Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 00:03:15 +0200
> Have a look at some of these MINOX (that's 8x11mm negatives!) scans:
>
> http://www.8x11film.com/spur/bilder01.html
> http://www.8x11film.com/spur/bildergast02.html
>
> (scans really don't do them justice)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 23:26:27 -0400
From: Bogdan Karasek <bkarasek@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Efke 25 speed (was catching up (Re: Re: Adox)
Hi,
Concerning the mention that EFKE and ADOX are the same. I recently
ordred a half-dozen boxes of different sheet size Efke 100 and 25. For
some sizes , they have only ADOX (6x9cm). I think that I got the last
two boxes of EFKE and 2 boxes of ADOX in 6x9. When I ordered , they
told me that it was the same film. I've tried the EFKE and I like it
very much. So far< ihave used it only in 120 format and I have to
compare it with APX 25 in 120 format. Still have 150 rolls in the
fridge. Abd film goes fast.
Tomorrow I will check to see if the notches are the same on the
different sheets of film.
Also interesting film because of the variety of sizes of sheet film they
have available, in English and Metric sizes, 4x5", 6x9cm, 9x12cm...... I
will have the same film for 120, 4x5, 5x7, 8x10. Makes life a little
easier when you can deal with the same film across the various sizes. :)
Cheers,
Bogdan
Georges Giralt wrote:
> David Foy a écrit :
>
>> Go here: http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?pid=1000001795
>> Freestyle seems to have the full line in stock. The prices are
excellent.
>>
>> David Foy
>>
> Efke film in Adox boxes is listed as availlable at Fotoimpex in Berlin
> and at Retrophotographic in UK. It will make no sense for Fotoimpex to
> invest in a company if this one has lost it's coating plant, IMHO.
> I've in my fridge Efke sheet films in Efke boxes and in Adox boxes. same
> stuff ! And great stuff BTW! I love a lot the 100 ISO one in sheet and
> 120 size.
> Some of our German speakers can ask Mirko at Fotoimpex forum, just to be
> sure ?
> Have a nice day !
--
________________________________________________________________
Bogdan Karasek
Montréal, Québec e-mail: bkarasek@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Canada
"I photograph my reality"
__________________________________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 0:08:02 -0400
From: <genej2@xxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] was:catching up II, now digi latitude
You are not joking. I've been using a Canon XT digital for my ballet gig,
and I've really come to appreciate how tolerant film is. Digital is a
little like shooting slide film all the time.
--
Be Just And Fear Not
---- Ryuji Suzuki <rs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Well, none of those images are as high contrast as my favorite subject
> matters, such as nightscape, snow, bright reflections, etc... and many
> of these things don't have "accurate" metering methods, so wide
> latitude is important. (Another reason why I shoot film.)
>
> From: "Edward C. Zimmermann" <edz@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: catching up II
> Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 00:03:15 +0200
>
> > Have a look at some of these MINOX (that's 8x11mm negatives!) scans:
> >
> > http://www.8x11film.com/spur/bilder01.html
> > http://www.8x11film.com/spur/bildergast02.html
> >
> > (scans really don't do them justice)
>
=============================================================================================================
> To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your
account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you
subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
------------------------------
End of pure-silver Digest V3 #146
*********************************
=============================================================================================================
To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your
account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,)
and unsubscribe from there.
- Follow-Ups:
- [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- From: Richard Knoppow
Other related posts:
- » [pure-silver] Purple-Tinted Negs
- » [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- » [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- » [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- » [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- » [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- » [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- » [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- » [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- » [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- » [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- » [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- » [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- » [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- » [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- » [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- » [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- » [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- » [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- » [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- » [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- » [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- » [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- » [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- » [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
How does one know when the clearing time should be increased?
From: FreeLists Mailing List Manager <ecartis@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Reply-To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx To: pure-silver digest users <ecartis@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: pure-silver Digest V3 #146 Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 02:05:00 -0400 (EDT)
pure-silver Digest Tue, 30 May 2006 Volume: 03 Issue: 146
In This Issue:
[pure-silver] clip test
[pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
[pure-silver] Re: clip test
[pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
[pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ...
[pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ...
[pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ...
[pure-silver] Re: Increasing Grain
[pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ...
[pure-silver] Re: Increasing Grain
[pure-silver] storing developer solutions (was Re: Re: HC 11
[pure-silver] catching up (was Re: Re: Adox)
[pure-silver] Uncle Dick's Marriage Counseling
[pure-silver] catching up II (was Re: Re: Adox)
[pure-silver] Re: Adox
[pure-silver] catching up (Re: Re: Adox)
[pure-silver] Re: catching up (Re: Re: Adox)
[pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ...
[pure-silver] Re: catching up (Re: Re: Adox)
[pure-silver] Re: catching up (Re: Re: Adox)
[pure-silver] Re: storing developer solutions
[pure-silver] Re: catching up II
[pure-silver] Efke 25 speed (was catching up (Re: Re: Adox)
[pure-silver] Re: storing developer solutions
[pure-silver] Re: storing developer solutions (was Re: Re: H
[pure-silver] Re: Efke 25 speed (was catching up (Re: Re: A
[pure-silver] Re: catching up II
[pure-silver] Re: catching up II
[pure-silver] Re: Efke 25 speed (was catching up (Re: Re: A
[pure-silver] was:catching up II, now digi latitude----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 06:53:31 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [pure-silver] clip test From: sstoney@xxxxxxx
> sstoney@xxxxxxx wrote:
>> I just shot a roll of arista.edu ultra in 35mm format. My regular
>> developer is DDX 1:4. The box does not give times for DDX. Does anyone
>> have an idea of what time would be good to start with? The box gives
>> times for Arista 76 (like D76), Arista premium liquid developer 1:9,
>> TMAX
>> developer 1:4, and Marathon film developer. Are any of these pretty
>> close
>> to DDX? The speed of the film is 100.
>>
>> thanks,
>>
>> --shannon
>>
>>
> If you can ---do a clip test of about 3 frames at the start of the role
> with DDX at the average time of all the ones you mention. That will give
> you an idea on whether to increase or reduce development.
How do you do a clip test?
--shannon
------------------------------
From: "Gareth Jolly" <garethjolly@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 22:03:43 +1000
Found my Film Developing Cookbook (by Anchell & Troop) and can now be slightly more helpful
- Developers or stop baths high in potassium salts can therefore significantly lengthen fixing time. - This is because the presence of potassium salts in the fixing process can significantly lengthen fixing time. The reason is that they partially convert ammonium or sodium thiosulfate to potassium thiosulfate
The film developing cookbook recommends
- not using a stop bath based on potassium metabisulfite or another potassium salt - if using a water stop, either have at least 60 seconds rinse in running water or five complete changes - before placing in the fixer
See page 107
Regards Gareth
----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 9:00 AM Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Foy" <dfoy@xxxxxxxx>
> To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 12:26 PM
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
>
>
>> Assuming it's not T-Max, possibly it's not a sensitizing dye, but rather
>> an anti-halation dye between the emulsion and the base. It should
>> decolorize in the fixer, and failing that it should wash out with water.
>> Sometimes it doesn't.
>>
>> David Foy
>>
> T-Max and Delta films are not the only ones with persistent sensitizing
> dyes.
> Anti-halation dye, in most B&W films, is in the back coating and is
> decolorized by the sulfite in both developer and fixing bath. Color films
> typically have an anti-halation layer as you describe, between the
> emulsion and subbing layer. This is actually a more effective place to
> have it since it eliminates reflection from the top surface of the support
> as well as the back surface. In addition, it prevents fogging from light
> conducted along the support.
> Residual dye in the emulsion can come from a small amount of residual
> silver halide due to inadequate fixing, or, sometimes the dye seems simply
> to bind to the gelatin. While the tint on T-Max is often blamed on
> incomplete fixing I have found that extended fixing times do not seem to
> cure it. Rather treating with a sulfite wash aid, and probably any
> alkaline bath, will cause the bond to break and the stuff is washed out.
> This may be due to the change in electrical charge in the emulsion from
> going to an alkaline pH.
> Since wash aid is nearly all sulfite it should also decolorize
> anti-halation dye but I would be suspicious about access of processing
> solutions to the back of the film when the anti-halation dye is present.
> Inadequate fixing can also result in a "stain" or fog on the film. This
> will usually be removed by refixing in _fresh_ fixer. The residual silver
> halides and fixer reaction products from incomplete fixing begin to change
> wtih time so refixing should be done as soon after the original fixing as
> possible. After a few weeks there may be reaction products that have
> changed so that they can no longer be made soluble.
> Fixing is a complex process that takes place in stages although the
> transformation is continuous from stage to stage. The insoluble silver
> halide of the emulsion is eventually made soluble so it will wash out in
> the fixer and subsequent wash. A certain number of free thiosulfate ions
> are necessary to completely react the halide into a soluble form. If the
> fixer is partially exhausted there may not be enough free ions available
> to carry out this reaction no matter how long fixing is continued.
> The capacity of a single bath to fix out to archival levels is quite
> limited. It is strongly recommended that a two bath fixing system be
> adopted. Film and paper are fixed for half the total time in each bath.
> The bulk of silver comes out in the first bath leaving the second one
> fairly fresh. This method will usually result in complete fixing and is
> significantly more economical than a single bath because its capacity is
> from 4 to 10 times as great.
> A sulfite wash aid will also aid in releasing some reaction products
> which will otherwise be bound to the gelatin or to the image silver. Since
> sensitizing dye can be bound to these materials the treatment will also
> get rid of the dye.
> Ammonium thiosulfate fixer has a greater capacity than Sodium
> Thiosulfate fixer but is still limited in capacity so even when using it a
> two bath system is wise. Ammonium thiosulfate (rapid fixer) has a higher
> tollerance for Iodide ions from film than Sodium fixer but complete,
> archival, fixing can be done using either type.
> The old rule of thumb still holds, measure the clearing time and fix
> for double this time. The old rule is also that the fixer should be
> discarded when clearing time doubles. This might be OK for a two bath
> system but IMO is well beyond the safe limit for a single bath.
>
> ---
> Richard Knoppow
> Los Angeles, CA, USA
> dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> =============================================================================================================
> To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your
> account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you
> subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
>
------------------------------
From: Nick Zentena <zentena@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: clip test Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 08:19:42 -0400
On Tuesday 30 May 2006 07:53, sstoney@xxxxxxx wrote: > > sstoney@xxxxxxx wrote:
> >
> > If you can ---do a clip test of about 3 frames at the start of the role
> > with DDX at the average time of all the ones you mention. That will give
> > you an idea on whether to increase or reduce development.
>
> How do you do a clip test?
Clip part of the roll off and develop it.
Nick
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 08:22:52 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs From: Ryuji Suzuki <rs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Unless they are talking about a very large amount of carryover, weak fix, etc. that is not an issue. Especially with rapid fix, don't worry about that stuff. Several Ilford developers contain a lot of potassium salts but they don't cause problems when used as directed.
Also, this is unrelated to purplish negs. Purplish color often come from the film base itself. Nothing can reduce that.
Sensitizing dye can be washed out by longer washing aid treatment and longer washing time.
Antihalation dye is nothing to worry about. They are washed out by presoak, or bleached by the developer.
There is one more suspected cause of bluish color in some cases, and I'm investigating a way to reduce it... will follow when I get more definite results.
From: "Gareth Jolly" <garethjolly@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 22:03:43 +1000
> Found my Film Developing Cookbook (by Anchell & Troop) and can now be
> slightly more helpful
>
> - Developers or stop baths high in potassium salts can therefore
> significantly lengthen fixing time.
> - This is because the presence of potassium salts in the fixing process can
> significantly lengthen fixing time. The reason is that they partially
> convert ammonium or sodium thiosulfate to potassium thiosulfate
>
> The film developing cookbook recommends
>
> - not using a stop bath based on potassium metabisulfite or another
> potassium salt
> - if using a water stop, either have at least 60 seconds rinse in running
> water or five complete changes - before placing in the fixer
>
> See page 107
>
> Regards
> Gareth
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 09:42:56 -0700 (PDT) From: Sauerwald Mark <mark_sauerwald@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ...
I too mix the stock solution, and then put it in 2oz glass bottles, which I fill to the brim so that when capped, there is no air in the bottle. I never use partial bottles and just mix it up as I need it. Most common is one little bottle plus water to make 16oz - which is enough for most of what I do.
--- EJ Neilsen <ej@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I live in the camp of mixing up my HC110 bottle to a > stock solution and then > making working dilution from that. The only time in > 30 years of using it > that I have not had consistent results when was > someone else mixed it and > didn't mix the stock solution well. > > As for determining weight or density, take a vessel_ > 100ml graduate, > 1) weight it = tare weight, > 2) fill it with 100ml weight it = tare weight + > solution weight, > > 2-1 = X solution weight/100ml > > Divide X by 100 and get g/ml, > > And on and on until you set up a system to measure > weigh and mix... > > > So much simpler to just make a stock solution and > move on. > > Eric > > > Eric Neilsen Photography > 4101 Commerce Street > Suite 9 > Dallas, TX 75226 > http://e.neilsen.home.att.net > http://ericneilsenphotography.com > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > [mailto:pure-silver- > > bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Luis Miguel > Castañeda > > Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 3:39 PM > > To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > > Subject: [pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ... > > > > > > On 28/05/2006, at 19:00, Georges Giralt wrote: > > > > > So, anyone knows for sure the density of HC 110 > syrup ? > > > Or am I obliged to devise it myself ? > > > > There it was two kinds of syrup European and US > (not sure if there > > are two still), so it depends. > > A syringe always worked fine for me, Simple > calculation up to the > > volume in ml will give you a consistent result for > every dilution. > > > > my 2 cents. > > > ========================================================================== > > =================================== > > To unsubscribe from this list, go to > www.freelists.org and logon to your > > account (the same e-mail address and password you > set-up when you > > subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there. > > ============================================================================================================To > unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org > and logon to your account (the same e-mail address > and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and > unsubscribe from there. >
__________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ... Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 12:59:35 -0400 From: "Koch, Gerald" <gkoch02@xxxxxxxxxx>
I have no problems measuring HC-110 concentrate using a polyethylene 10 ml graduated cylinder. The only thing that is a bit unusual is that there is little or no meniscus. I dilute 1:50 for convenience and use the times recommended for dilution H (2X dilution B).
The diluted stock solution has limited keeping properties while the concentrate is eternal. I forget Kodak's recomendation, 3 months for partially filled bottles?
Jerry
------------------------------
From: "EJ Neilsen" <ej@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ... Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 12:18:37 -0500
Which is why it goes in a bottle you can squeeze the air out of to keep it fresh(er).
EJ
Eric Neilsen Photography 4101 Commerce Street, Suite 9 Dallas, TX 75226 214-827-8301 http://ericneilsenphotography.com
Skype : ejprinter > -----Original Message----- > From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:pure-silver- > bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Koch, Gerald > Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 12:00 PM > To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: [pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ... > > I have no problems measuring HC-110 concentrate using a > polyethylene 10 > ml graduated cylinder. The only thing that is a bit unusual is > that > there is little or no meniscus. I dilute 1:50 for convenience > and use > the times recommended for dilution H (2X dilution B). > > The diluted stock solution has limited keeping properties while > the > concentrate is eternal. I forget Kodak's recomendation, 3 > months for > partially filled bottles? > > Jerry > ====================================To unsubscribe from this > list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the > same e-mail address and password you set-up when you > subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 10:29:17 -0700 (PDT) From: Robert Krawiec <robk64@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Increasing Grain
I tired this combination at results are great.
I read somewhere ages ago that Kodak 3200 in Universal PQ developer is meant to produce amazing grain, but I can't find any info on this...Anyone tried it?
Rob
--- Gianni Rondinini <bugbarbeq@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> use rodinal and grains will be as big as golf balls > when printed on > 8x10 :) > > regards, > -- > Gianni Rondinini (30, tanti, RA) > Nikon user - Bmw driver > http://bugbarbeq.deviantart.com > ============================================================================================================To > unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org > and logon to your account (the same e-mail address > and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and > unsubscribe from there. >
__________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ... Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 13:34:57 -0400 From: "Koch, Gerald" <gkoch02@xxxxxxxxxx>
Bottles that are soft enough to squeeze may not be the best to use since they may allow oxygen to diffuse into the contents. The accordian style sold in photo stores are particularly bad in this respect. PET or PETE bottles while more rigid and not really squeezable are probably a better choice.
-----Original Message----- From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of EJ Neilsen Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 1:19 PM To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ...
Which is why it goes in a bottle you can squeeze the air out of to keep it fresh(er).
EJ=20
Eric Neilsen Photography 4101 Commerce Street, Suite 9 Dallas, TX 75226 214-827-8301 http://ericneilsenphotography.com =20 Skype : ejprinter > -----Original Message----- > From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:pure-silver-=20 > bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Koch, Gerald > Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 12:00 PM > To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: [pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ... >=20 > I have no problems measuring HC-110 concentrate using a polyethylene=20 > 10 ml graduated cylinder. The only thing that is a bit unusual is > that > there is little or no meniscus. I dilute 1:50 for convenience > and use > the times recommended for dilution H (2X dilution B). >=20 > The diluted stock solution has limited keeping properties while the > concentrate is eternal. I forget Kodak's recomendation, 3 > months for > partially filled bottles? >=20 > Jerry > = =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3DTo unsubscribe from this list, go=20 > to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail=20 > address and password you set-up when you > subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
------------------------------
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Increasing Grain Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 13:40:05 -0400 From: "Koch, Gerald" <gkoch02@xxxxxxxxxx>
I remember seeing a very effective portrait which used grain to great effect. The photographer developed the film in hot Dektol and then placed the film in a cold stop bath to reticulate the film. This enhanced the grain effect.
-----Original Message----- From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Stein Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 6:54 PM To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [pure-silver] Increasing Grain
Dear Friends,
I want to experiment with Ilford Delta 3200 film in 35mm size with the=20 view to simulating the grainy effects seen in some bromoil works. Any=20 suggestions as to how the grain could be increased?
Thank you.
Uncle Dick=20
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 12:56:20 -0600
From: David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] storing developer solutions (was Re: Re: HC 110 question
Winemaking stores sell high-barrier Mylar "bags" meant to hold home-made wine. They're the same bags used in the bag-in-a-box "box wines."
I realize that no-one on this list has ever sunk to the depths of drinking the kinds of wines that come in boxes, so I probably should explain in considerable depth exactly what these are... but what with the pressures of time etc etc, I must defer to another day...also let me make it clear that *I* have had no personal experience with these so-called "wines." Yuk.
These bags work exceptionally well. You can exclude all of the air, and because they are a laminate of high-density polyester and metal foil, their gas permeability is extremely low, much lower than any plastic bottle with the possible exception of rigid PET. I base this statement on what the manufacturers say about the laminate material, and what bottle manufacturers say about PET and HDPE. It's all googleable for the curious.
I store 5-litre quantities of my own Bluefire HR developer concentrate in them between bottling runs. Longevity tests indicate zero loss of activity in nearly two years (same with full, capped rigid PET bottles), versus an insignificant yet measurable loss associated with full, capped HDPE. I use them to store HC-110 stock for months at a time, and have not yet seen any obvious oxygen problems.
They're very inexpensive, something like $4 for a 5-litre bag. They're very easy to wash and re-use.
David Foy
Koch, Gerald wrote: > Bottles that are soft enough to squeeze may not be the best to use since > they may allow oxygen to diffuse into the contents. The accordian style > sold in photo stores are particularly bad in this respect. PET or PETE > bottles while more rigid and not really squeezable are probably a better > choice. ...
> quoting someone: Which is why it goes in a bottle you can squeeze the air out of to keep
> it fresh(er).
>
...
>
...
>> who quoted someone else: The diluted stock solution has limited keeping properties while the
>> concentrate is eternal. I forget Kodak's recomendation, 3
>> months for
>> partially filled bottles?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 13:20:10 -0600 From: David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx> Subject: [pure-silver] catching up (was Re: Re: Adox)
The Adox trademark in Canada is owned and registered by me. In Germany and the US, it's owned and registered by Mirko Böddecker of Fotoimpex in Berlin.
In the US, it was originally registered by John Minakais of J&C but his registration is currently suspended pending what seems to be a review in light of Mirko's registration. Complicated stuff. As most people on this list would know, Mirko and John are affiliated.
Agfa (who had owned the mark) let it lapse. I did not know that Mirko and John were reactivating it; they did not know I was. Our registrations kicked in at more or less the same time, which is how we found out about each other. So here we are.
David Foy
Nick Zentena wrote:
> On Thursday 18 May 2006 16:08, Justin F. Knotzke wrote:
>> Anyone heard of this company called Adox?
>>
>> http://www.adox.net/Products.htm
>>
>> They appear to be in Canada.. of all the god forsaken places!
>
>
> I don't think that's Adox. It's the Frugal photographer.
>
> http://www.frugalphotographer.com/index.htm
>
> http://www.efkefilm.com/
>
> Efke I think owns the Adox name now. I guess the Adox in Canada some how got
> the name for Canada?
>
> Nick
> =============================================================================================================
> To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 15:25:59 -0400 From: "Justin F. Knotzke" <jknotzke@xxxxxxxxxx> Subject: [pure-silver] Uncle Dick's Marriage Counseling
I have been thinking, and thinking again about maybe making the jump into wedding photography.
I decided to ask the venerable Uncle Dick for his Wisdom on the subject. In all honesty, I expected a small email full of wit and advice but nothing like a 13 part series!
With Uncle's permission, I decided to put it online for all to see. It's fantastic, hilarious and very insightful.
Uncle, thanks again. After reading, and re-reading your lessons I think I might actually take a stab at it.
Thanks again.
You can read it all here: http://www.knotzke.ca/weddings/
If you see any typos, broken links, things out of whack, please let me know.
J
-- Justin F. Knotzke jknotzke@xxxxxxxxxx http://www.shampoo.ca
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 13:27:34 -0600 From: David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx> Subject: [pure-silver] catching up II (was Re: Re: Adox)
The film is Agfa microfilm, spooled for me by Tura when they were still in business, and edge-marked by them as "Pan Line." The next batch will be spooled here and edge-marked "Bluefire Police." It is well suited to pictorial photography when paired with a suitable developer. It is not sold as Adox, but as Bluefire Police. You are correct that it is bad business to confuse customers.
David Foy
Ryuji Suzuki wrote: > From: "Justin F. Knotzke" <jknotzke@xxxxxxxxxx> > Subject: [pure-silver] Adox > Date: Thu, 18 May 2006 16:08:45 -0400 > >> Anyone heard of this company called Adox? > > I think it's a bad business decision on them to confuse market and > potential users. Current b&w silver-halide photographers are not that > naive as to believe the name means the same Adox technology. > > Their main product seems to be a respooled "line film" type graphic > art film, for which they provide very little information. It says > "single thin, hard, monodisperse ultra-fine grained" but if this is > indeed true (plausible, for line film emulsion) it's clearly different > from old Adox film, and also such single thin hard monodisperse > emulsion is unsuitable for pictorial in-camera negative > applications. If they have enough technology to make such emulsion, I > don't understand why they don't extend it to make fine medium speed > pictorial film. Emulsion part is not that difficult. High quality > multilayer coating, drying and spooling in total darkness are the > problem.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 13:33:44 -0600 From: David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Adox
The films your URL points to are Ilford FP4+ and HP5+ in custom packaging. I believe Mirko Boeddeker will soon be making the former Efke KB25 and KB100 (and R25 and R100) films available again in Adox branded packaging. I am unclear about whether this will be packaging of existing factory stocks of the Efke films, taken from storage, or a new coating.
David Foy
Jim Brick wrote:
> At 04:08 PM 5/18/2006 -0400, Justin F. Knotzke wrote:
>> Anyone heard of this company called Adox?
>>
>> http://www.adox.net/Products.htm
>>
>> They appear to be in Canada.. of all the god forsaken places!
>>
>> J
>
>
> I attended Brooks Institute of Photography 1959 - 1961. My roll film of
> choice, at school, was Adox KB14 and R14 (35mm & 120).
>
> It is available again from J and C Photo:
>
> http://www.jandcphoto.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=93
>
> in both 35mm and 120.
>
> I used Adox KB & R 14 for at least a decade. Great film. I don't believe
> that the current Adox film is exactly the same, but as soon as I use-up
> my current batch of Efke film, I'll try it again.
>
> Jim
> =============================================================================================================
>
> To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your
> account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you
> subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 13:42:25 -0600 From: David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx> Subject: [pure-silver] catching up (Re: Re: Adox)
Fotokemika did not outsource much. They coated and packaged films and papers in Croatia, at plants in Zagreb and Samobor, from 1948 until last year. The two exceptions I know of were their Efkecolor 35mm films (from Fuji) and their Efke b/w 400 speed film (from Ilford). There may have been outsourced papers that I am not aware of.
David Foy
Tim Rudman wrote:
> As I understand they are sourced from both fotokemika and classic arts -
> which in turn were forte.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Georges Giralt
> Sent: 19 May 2006 12:27
> To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Adox
>
> Tim, As you seem to have good contact with Fotoimpex, could you please tell
> us if the Adox papers are, now, Efke (like Emaks and Varicon) or as
> previously Forte papers ?
> I've a fridge full of PolyKaltton and PolyWarmtone from Forte (bought at
> Fotoimpex under the Classic or Adox names) and, when I'll had to re
> order, I'll want to know if it will be a close match or really different ?
> TIA !
> Tim Rudman a écrit :
>> This is correct. Mirko Boeddeker at FotoImpex in Berlin (+ association
>> with
>> JandC) is exporting it.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 21:58:14 +0200 From: "Edward C. Zimmermann" <edz@xxxxxxx> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: catching up (Re: Re: Adox)
Quoting David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx>:
> Fotokemika did not outsource much. They coated and packaged films and > papers in Croatia, at plants in Zagreb and Samobor, from 1948 until last > year.
Are they no longer coating?
-- -- Edward C. Zimmermann, Basis Systeme netzwerk, Munich
------------------------------
From: "EJ Neilsen" <ej@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ... Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 14:59:36 -0500
Yes, The old accordion bottles are terrible for holding their "new shape". They were good for large volume quick use type storage like a working solution that was going to get exhausted on the next use; a paper developer that was still good and you planned on a few prints the next day.
Eric
Eric Neilsen Photography 4101 Commerce Street, Suite 9 Dallas, TX 75226 214-827-8301 http://ericneilsenphotography.com
Skype : ejprinter
> -----Original Message----- > From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:pure-silver- > bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Koch, Gerald > Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 12:35 PM > To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: [pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ... > > Bottles that are soft enough to squeeze may not be the best to > use since > they may allow oxygen to diffuse into the contents. The > accordian style > sold in photo stores are particularly bad in this respect. PET > or PETE > bottles while more rigid and not really squeezable are probably > a better > choice. > > -----Original Message----- > From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > [mailto:pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of EJ > Neilsen > Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 1:19 PM > To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: [pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ... > > > Which is why it goes in a bottle you can squeeze the air out of > to keep > it fresh(er). > > EJ > > Eric Neilsen Photography > 4101 Commerce Street, Suite 9 > Dallas, TX 75226 > 214-827-8301 > http://ericneilsenphotography.com > > Skype : ejprinter > > -----Original Message----- > > From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:pure-silver- > > bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Koch, Gerald > > Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 12:00 PM > > To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > > Subject: [pure-silver] Re: HC 110 question ... > > > > I have no problems measuring HC-110 concentrate using a > polyethylene > > 10 ml graduated cylinder. The only thing that is a bit > unusual is > > that > > there is little or no meniscus. I dilute 1:50 for > convenience > > and use > > the times recommended for dilution H (2X dilution B). > > > > The diluted stock solution has limited keeping properties > while the > > concentrate is eternal. I forget Kodak's recomendation, 3 > > months for > > partially filled bottles? > > > > Jerry > > ====================================To unsubscribe from this > list, go > > to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e- > mail > > address and password you set-up when you > > subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there. > > =============================================================== > ========= > ===================================== > To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and > logon to your > account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when > you > subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there. > ====================================To unsubscribe from this > list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the > same e-mail address and password you set-up when you > subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 14:36:29 -0600 From: David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: catching up (Re: Re: Adox)
I don't know. Fotokemika (the company that dated from 1948) was liquidated in 2004. That's why I used the past tense.
During the liquidation Mirko Boeddeker and some Fotokemika employees formed a successor company, called Fotokemika Nova, which is registered at the same Samobor address as before liquidation.
There was a post elsewhere on this list saying "Efke" had re-established themselves near Samobor, the implication being they're continuing the factory business. I assume this new entity is the source of Mirko's Adox brand films and papers. I don't know if they are coating, or are still packaging from existing factory stocks out of the freezer. I assume their coating capacity is intact, but I don't actually know that.
David Foy
Edward C. Zimmermann wrote:
> Quoting David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx>:
>
>> Fotokemika did not outsource much. They coated and packaged films and
>> papers in Croatia, at plants in Zagreb and Samobor, from 1948 until last
>> year.
>
> Are they no longer coating?
>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 16:42:42 -0400 From: <genej2@xxxxxxx> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: catching up (Re: Re: Adox)
I'm just concerned about Efke 25. There's really nothing else quite like it IMO. Any problem with availability. I have a few rolls left in the freezer but will need more soon.
--
Be Just And Fear Not
---- David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I don't know. Fotokemika (the company that dated from 1948) was
> liquidated in 2004. That's why I used the past tense.
>
> During the liquidation Mirko Boeddeker and some Fotokemika employees
> formed a successor company, called Fotokemika Nova, which is registered
> at the same Samobor address as before liquidation.
>
> There was a post elsewhere on this list saying "Efke" had re-established
> themselves near Samobor, the implication being they're continuing the
> factory business. I assume this new entity is the source of Mirko's Adox
> brand films and papers. I don't know if they are coating, or are still
> packaging from existing factory stocks out of the freezer. I assume
> their coating capacity is intact, but I don't actually know that.
>
> David Foy
>
> Edward C. Zimmermann wrote:
> > Quoting David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx>:
> >
> >> Fotokemika did not outsource much. They coated and packaged films and
> >> papers in Croatia, at plants in Zagreb and Samobor, from 1948 until last
> >> year.
> >
> > Are they no longer coating?
> >
> =============================================================================================================
> To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 16:47:16 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [pure-silver] Re: storing developer solutions From: Ryuji Suzuki <rs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
From: David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] storing developer solutions (was Re: Re: HC 110 question ...)
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 12:56:20 -0600
> These bags work exceptionally well. You can exclude all of the air, and > because they are a laminate of high-density polyester and metal foil, > their gas permeability is extremely low, much lower than any plastic > bottle with the possible exception of rigid PET. I base this statement > on what the manufacturers say about the laminate material, and what > bottle manufacturers say about PET and HDPE. It's all googleable for the > curious.
Mylar is a trademark and the material used for Mylar products is PET. I'm surprised that the bag/bottle manufacturer didn't tell you that.
Gas permeability is a property of the material but the actual gas barrier property depends on the thickness IN ADDITION to the material. So thick PET bottle is better than those bags, as long as air is not allowed in the bottle.
One common way to increase the barrier property is to use foil lamination. Unless it is further laminated, puncture resistance may be compromised. Well made aluminized PET bags are quite good.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 16:49:48 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [pure-silver] Re: catching up II From: Ryuji Suzuki <rs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
From: David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx> Subject: [pure-silver] catching up II (was Re: Re: Adox) Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 13:27:34 -0600
> It is well suited to pictorial photography when paired with a suitable > developer.
And... low contrast image scene?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 15:01:52 -0600 From: David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx> Subject: [pure-silver] Efke 25 speed (was catching up (Re: Re: Adox)
Go here: http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?pid=1000001795 Freestyle seems to have the full line in stock. The prices are excellent.
David Foy
genej2@xxxxxxx wrote:
> I'm just concerned about Efke 25. There's really nothing else quite like it IMO. Any problem with availability. I have a few rolls left in the freezer but will need more soon.
> --
> Be Just And Fear Not
>
> ---- David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx> wrote:
>> I don't know. Fotokemika (the company that dated from 1948) was
>> liquidated in 2004. That's why I used the past tense.
>>
>> During the liquidation Mirko Boeddeker and some Fotokemika employees
>> formed a successor company, called Fotokemika Nova, which is registered
>> at the same Samobor address as before liquidation.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 23:06:29 +0200 From: Georges Giralt <georges.giralt@xxxxxxx> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: storing developer solutions
Ryuji Suzuki a écrit :
> From: David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [pure-silver] storing developer solutions (was Re: Re: HC 110 question ...)
> Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 12:56:20 -0600
>
>
>>These bags work exceptionally well. You can exclude all of the air, and
>>because they are a laminate of high-density polyester and metal foil,
>>their gas permeability is extremely low, much lower than any plastic
>>bottle with the possible exception of rigid PET. I base this statement
>>on what the manufacturers say about the laminate material, and what
>>bottle manufacturers say about PET and HDPE. It's all googleable for the
>>curious.
>
>
> Mylar is a trademark and the material used for Mylar products is
> PET. I'm surprised that the bag/bottle manufacturer didn't tell you
> that.
>
> Gas permeability is a property of the material but the actual gas
> barrier property depends on the thickness IN ADDITION to the
> material. So thick PET bottle is better than those bags, as long as
> air is not allowed in the bottle.
>
> One common way to increase the barrier property is to use foil
> lamination. Unless it is further laminated, puncture resistance may be
> compromised. Well made aluminized PET bags are quite good.
>
Hi !
As a French, I am accustomed to wine makers, and wine transportation.
When one goes to a wine maker and want to buy wine cheaply, the solution
is to buy 33 liters at a time in one of these bags called a "cubitainer"
which I think is a trademark. When at home the guy has to bottle it as
soon as possible because the wine will turn bad in a couple of days.
I will not put my products in such bags (if they're the same as yours,
which is unclear) and ask for permanence or air resistance.... If it's
wrrong for wine, it's not good for HC110 ;-) Afterwards, there is also
sulfite in some wines ;-)
I've devised the density of HC110 concentrate by wheighting a full new 1
litre bottle and an empty one. This sunday I'll make some experiments
using a triple beam balance and let you know how it goes.... (it is easy
to wheigh out because I use 1500 cc of chemistry in my Jobo tank used
outside the CPE2 ! (this helps for getting big arms))
HAve a nice day !
--
Ce message est constitué d'au moins 50 % d'électrons recyclés.
Aucun électron n'a été blessé ou forcé d'aucune manière
pendant l'écriture de ce message. S'il vous plaît aidez nous
à conserver nos ressources, recyclez vos électrons !
------------------------------
From: "EJ Neilsen" <ej@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: storing developer solutions (was Re: Re: HC 110 ques
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 16:06:35 -0500
They also work as pillows on canoe trips down the river. The first stop however, does require you to drink a little : ) With a small group a small bag/box wine can go quickly.
And yes, I do use those in my darkroom or something like them, for many solutions. I should have said that bottles have been used more for diluted solution that may be used over the next few days, and the bags are mostly what I use for long term storage.
Eric Neilsen Photography 4101 Commerce Street, Suite 9 Dallas, TX 75226 214-827-8301 http://ericneilsenphotography.com
Skype : ejprinter > -----Original Message----- > From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:pure-silver- > bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of David Foy > Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 1:56 PM > To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: [pure-silver] storing developer solutions (was Re: Re: > HC 110 question ...) > > Winemaking stores sell high-barrier Mylar "bags" meant to hold > home-made > wine. They're the same bags used in the bag-in-a-box "box > wines." > > I realize that no-one on this list has ever sunk to the depths > of > drinking the kinds of wines that come in boxes, so I probably > should > explain in considerable depth exactly what these are... > but what with the pressures of time etc etc, I must defer to > another > day...also let me make it clear that *I* have had no personal > experience > with these so-called "wines." Yuk. > > These bags work exceptionally well. You can exclude all of the > air, and > because they are a laminate of high-density polyester and metal > foil, > their gas permeability is extremely low, much lower than any > plastic > bottle with the possible exception of rigid PET. I base this > statement > on what the manufacturers say about the laminate material, and > what > bottle manufacturers say about PET and HDPE. It's all > googleable for the > curious. > > I store 5-litre quantities of my own Bluefire HR developer > concentrate > in them between bottling runs. Longevity tests indicate zero > loss of > activity in nearly two years (same with full, capped rigid PET > bottles), > versus an insignificant yet measurable loss associated with > full, capped > HDPE. I use them to store HC-110 stock for months at a time, > and have > not yet seen any obvious oxygen problems. > > They're very inexpensive, something like $4 for a 5-litre bag. > They're > very easy to wash and re-use. > > David Foy > > Koch, Gerald wrote: > > Bottles that are soft enough to squeeze may not be the best > to use since > > they may allow oxygen to diffuse into the contents. The > accordian style > > sold in photo stores are particularly bad in this respect. > PET or PETE > > bottles while more rigid and not really squeezable are > probably a better > > choice. > ... > > > quoting someone: Which is why it goes in a bottle you can > squeeze the air out of to keep > > it fresh(er). > > > ... > > > ... > >> who quoted someone else: The diluted stock solution has > limited keeping properties while the > >> concentrate is eternal. I forget Kodak's recomendation, 3 > >> months for > >> partially filled bottles? > =============================================================== > ============================================== > To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and > logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you > set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 23:10:19 +0200 From: Georges Giralt <georges.giralt@xxxxxxx> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Efke 25 speed (was catching up (Re: Re: Adox)
David Foy a écrit :
> Go here: http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?pid=1000001795
> Freestyle seems to have the full line in stock. The prices are excellent.
>
> David Foy
>
Efke film in Adox boxes is listed as availlable at Fotoimpex in Berlin
and at Retrophotographic in UK. It will make no sense for Fotoimpex to
invest in a company if this one has lost it's coating plant, IMHO.
I've in my fridge Efke sheet films in Efke boxes and in Adox boxes. same
stuff ! And great stuff BTW! I love a lot the 100 ISO one in sheet and
120 size.
Some of our German speakers can ask Mirko at Fotoimpex forum, just to be
sure ?
Have a nice day !
--
Ce message est constitué d'au moins 50 % d'électrons recyclés.
Aucun électron n'a été blessé ou forcé d'aucune manière
pendant l'écriture de ce message. S'il vous plaît aidez nous
à conserver nos ressources, recyclez vos électrons !
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 00:03:15 +0200 From: "Edward C. Zimmermann" <edz@xxxxxxx> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: catching up II
Quoting Ryuji Suzuki <rs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>:
> From: David Foy <dfoy@xxxxxxxx> > Subject: [pure-silver] catching up II (was Re: Re: Adox) > Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 13:27:34 -0600 > > > It is well suited to pictorial photography when paired with a suitable > > developer. > > And... low contrast image scene?
No need. With a suitable developer and not "pushing" microfilm one can get a
comparatively good latitude. Negatives might look thin to the eye but print
well and provide good tonality.
Have a look at some of these MINOX (that's 8x11mm negatives!) scans:
http://www.8x11film.com/spur/bilder01.html http://www.8x11film.com/spur/bildergast02.html
(scans really don't do them justice)
-- -- Edward C. Zimmermann, Basis Systeme netzwerk, Munich Office Leo (R&D): Leopoldstrasse 53-55, D-80802 Munich, Federal Republic of Germany
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 18:35:13 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [pure-silver] Re: catching up II From: Ryuji Suzuki <rs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Well, none of those images are as high contrast as my favorite subject matters, such as nightscape, snow, bright reflections, etc... and many of these things don't have "accurate" metering methods, so wide latitude is important. (Another reason why I shoot film.)
From: "Edward C. Zimmermann" <edz@xxxxxxx> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: catching up II Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 00:03:15 +0200
> Have a look at some of these MINOX (that's 8x11mm negatives!) scans: > > http://www.8x11film.com/spur/bilder01.html > http://www.8x11film.com/spur/bildergast02.html > > (scans really don't do them justice)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 23:26:27 -0400 From: Bogdan Karasek <bkarasek@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Efke 25 speed (was catching up (Re: Re: Adox)
Hi,
Concerning the mention that EFKE and ADOX are the same. I recently ordred a half-dozen boxes of different sheet size Efke 100 and 25. For some sizes , they have only ADOX (6x9cm). I think that I got the last two boxes of EFKE and 2 boxes of ADOX in 6x9. When I ordered , they told me that it was the same film. I've tried the EFKE and I like it very much. So far< ihave used it only in 120 format and I have to compare it with APX 25 in 120 format. Still have 150 rolls in the fridge. Abd film goes fast.
Tomorrow I will check to see if the notches are the same on the different sheets of film.
Also interesting film because of the variety of sizes of sheet film they have available, in English and Metric sizes, 4x5", 6x9cm, 9x12cm...... I will have the same film for 120, 4x5, 5x7, 8x10. Makes life a little easier when you can deal with the same film across the various sizes. :)
Cheers, Bogdan
Georges Giralt wrote:
> David Foy a écrit :
>
>> Go here: http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?pid=1000001795
>> Freestyle seems to have the full line in stock. The prices are excellent.
>>
>> David Foy
>>
> Efke film in Adox boxes is listed as availlable at Fotoimpex in Berlin
> and at Retrophotographic in UK. It will make no sense for Fotoimpex to
> invest in a company if this one has lost it's coating plant, IMHO.
> I've in my fridge Efke sheet films in Efke boxes and in Adox boxes. same
> stuff ! And great stuff BTW! I love a lot the 100 ISO one in sheet and
> 120 size.
> Some of our German speakers can ask Mirko at Fotoimpex forum, just to be
> sure ?
> Have a nice day !
-- ________________________________________________________________ Bogdan Karasek Montréal, Québec e-mail: bkarasek@xxxxxxxxxxxx Canada
"I photograph my reality" __________________________________________________________________
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 0:08:02 -0400 From: <genej2@xxxxxxx> Subject: [pure-silver] was:catching up II, now digi latitude
You are not joking. I've been using a Canon XT digital for my ballet gig, and I've really come to appreciate how tolerant film is. Digital is a little like shooting slide film all the time.
--
Be Just And Fear Not
---- Ryuji Suzuki <rs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Well, none of those images are as high contrast as my favorite subject
> matters, such as nightscape, snow, bright reflections, etc... and many
> of these things don't have "accurate" metering methods, so wide
> latitude is important. (Another reason why I shoot film.)
>
> From: "Edward C. Zimmermann" <edz@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: catching up II
> Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 00:03:15 +0200
>
> > Have a look at some of these MINOX (that's 8x11mm negatives!) scans:
> >
> > http://www.8x11film.com/spur/bilder01.html
> > http://www.8x11film.com/spur/bildergast02.html
> >
> > (scans really don't do them justice)
> =============================================================================================================
> To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
------------------------------
End of pure-silver Digest V3 #146 *********************************
- [pure-silver] Re: Purple-Tinted Negs
- From: Richard Knoppow