[pure-silver] Re: Phototec times for Tri-x and Tmax 100

You can do lots of sensitometric tests but if your technical skills and/or 
equipment doesn't allow them, you can work in a simpler manner.

Depending your enlarger type and setup, development varies.
A diffusion enlarger requires an increased development compared to a condenser 
model to obtain a similar print on the same paper grade.
There are other parameters involved, so just consider them as a whole.

My common practice is to expose a film under "normal" (there's room for 
interpretation here) light and contrast (i.e. sunny day), then to adjust the 
development time to be able to print the neg on a normal paper grade with my 
enlarger.
If I need to use a harder grade, then I probably need to develop a bit more, if 
it's on a softer grade, then I probably need to develop less. 
As my development procedure is very standardized (I use a Jobo processor which 
helps), for the first roll, I start with the manufacturer time/temp adjusted by 
a "certain percentage" based on my previous tests on other films of the same 
make. Result is usually very acceptable and then fine-tune the time on 
following developments.

But don't worry that much, what you need is to remain within acceptable limits 
so your neg has all the informations you want to print.

You may discuss days and days on aspects like grain size versus development 
time, the difference of potassium versus sodium carbonate or  the effect of a 
neutral fixing bath on gelatin but, at some point, we're supposed to be 
photographers and not to live 24/24 in our darkroom ... :-)

Claudio Bonavolta
http://www.bonavolta.ch

----- Message d'origine -----
De: Janet Cull <jcull@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 09:19:42 -0400
Sujet: [pure-silver] Re: Phototec times for Tri-x and Tmax 100
À: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx

>
>On Aug 26, 2008, at 3:08 AM, mail1 wrote:
>
>> I have rarely found list times correct, although they will get you  
>> started
>> in the right direction.
>
>
>I don't know how to adjust times according to what I see, minutely.   
>Of course I'd know if it's badly overdeveloped (which I've done) or  
>badly underdeveloped (which I've also done), but if it's close I  
>haven't a clue.  (I even started a little film club here, hoping  
>there would be darkroom people with more experience, so I could learn  
>hands-on.  I'd love someone to hold my negatives and tell me  
>specifics.  Unfortunately, there's only one young man who has done  
>some darkroom time.)
>
>I routinely need to give more development time to my 120 film, but  
>35mm is usually right on... as far as I can tell.
>
>  
>   
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