[pure-silver] Re: Photo 101

Although I was taught to make contact sheets in the manner I originally described (with the clear areas of the film just barely visible), I must admit that Jonathan's reasoning makes more sense. Time to reform.
I do find contact sheets extremely useful, and it would never enter my mind not to make one, even when the urge to get straight to printing a newly developed roll of film tempts me to skip it. 

--Ben


On Sep 26, 2008, at 1:59 PM, mail1 wrote:
I consider the clear ends and edge of the film as base plus fog, and when proofing I print this as black. If the edge is visible I consider the proof 
sheet under exposed, and this will provide misleading information to
determine if the film has been properly exposed or developed. If the shadow detail is too dark the film may be under exposed. If the high light are gray the film might be under developed, and if the high lights are washed out the film may be over developed. I am speaking in very general terms here because 
a change in paper grade changes this relationship. Also the Subject
Brightness Ratio of the original scene plays a big role here.

Jonathan Ayers   [mail1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]

-----Original Message-----
From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Dr. Benjamin R. McRee 
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2008 6:42 AM
To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Photo 101

Justin,
I've always found that a properly exposed contact sheet (printed so that the 
clear base at the ends and edges is just visible) helps a great deal.

--Ben


----- Original Message -----
From: "Justin F. Knotzke" <jknotzke@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2008 9:30:28 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: [pure-silver] Photo 101
I am in the process of souping rolls of film, 120, shot while in Yosemite park. So lots of pine and rock.. I bracketed all of the shots and used a red filter for many of them.. I've got a big weekend of printing ahead of me and I want to waste as little time as possible as I have 10 prints to produce.
How do you go about evaluating your negs ? How do you chose which of your bracketed shots to go ahead and print ? Looking at the negs, they go from thinner to thicker. The thickest shots are the ones were I can make out most 
of the elements in the image. But is that the best frame to print ?
Just curious as to what people do when trying to decide which frame to print.. Obviously test prints is the best way, but there still needs to be a 
narrowing of possibilities..

  Thanks

  J
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