[pure-silver] Re: Photo 101

I know, Justin.  I hate doing those too.  I don't know why.


On Sep 26, 2008, at 9:47 AM, Justin F. Knotzke wrote:



  Ah ha, that's not a half bad idea. Thanks.

   J

------Original Message------
From: Dr. Benjamin R. McRee
Sender: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: Pure Silver
ReplyTo: Pure Silver
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Photo 101
Sent: Sep 26, 2008 09:41

Justin,
I've always found that a properly exposed contact sheet (printed so that th= e clear base at the ends and edges is just visible) helps a great deal. 

--Ben


----- Original Message -----
From: "Justin F. Knotzke" <jknotzke@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2008 9:30:28 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: [pure-silver] Photo 101
=C2=A0=C2=A0 I am in the process of souping rolls of film, 120, shot while = in Yosemite park. So lots of pine and rock.. I bracketed all of the shots a= nd used a red filter for many of them.. I've got a big weekend of printing = ahead of me and I want to waste as little time as possible as I have 10 pri= 
nts to produce.=20
=C2=A0=C2=A0 How do you go about evaluating your negs ? How do you chose wh= ich of your bracketed shots to go ahead and print ? Looking at the negs, th= ey go from thinner to thicker. The thickest shots are the ones were I can m= ake out most of the elements in the image. But is that the best frame to pr= 
int ?=20
=C2=A0=C2=A0 Just curious as to what people do when trying to decide which = frame to print.. Obviously test prints is the best way, but there still nee= 
ds to be a narrowing of possibilities..=20
=C2=A0=20
=C2=A0 Thanks=20

=C2=A0 J=20
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