[pure-silver] Re: Old Paper Developer Question

DEAR ERIC,
        I once printed a show of 45 16X20s on Oriental Seagull graded paper
using Amidol.  I found that using a little citric acid to stabilize it kept
it very active for just over four hours.  I used to mix a "before lunch"
batch and an "after lunch" batch.  The last few days before the framing
deadline I also mixed an "after dinner" batch!  (LOL)
        It is a great developer giving wonderful blacks but it certainly
demands discipline to make use of its limited life.  Not as convenient as
modern developers.  
                CHEERS!
                        BOB

-----Original Message-----
From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Eric Nelson
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 1:26 AM
To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Old Paper Developer Question

I can't speak to the anti-fog abilities of glycin or
amidol based developers, but in my experince, amidol
developers oxidize REALLY fast and amidol itself isn't
cheap.  I'm talking literally 2 hours of life and a
limited number of prints.
Eric

--- Don Sweet <don@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> I have few boxes of 25+ year old enlarging paper,
> including Ilfobrom and Portriga Rapid.  It is
> unopened, so I decided before blazing away I should
> look for some information about how to best to
> process it, particularly to minimise fog. First I
> sourced some benzotriazole which I thought could
> just be added to Dektol or Neutol or Bromophen
> developer.  
> 
> Then following links from the UnblinkingEye website
> I found some suggestions that both amidol-based or
> glycin-based developers are more resistant to fog
> than the usual MQ or PQ blends.  Does anyone know if
> that is right, and whether either of them is likely
> to be a better developer for my old paper?
> 
> Thanks
> Don Sweet



 
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