[pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
- From: Janet Cull <jcull@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2008 17:05:05 -0400
My thinking's good as a drunks too. I didn't think of the meter
thing, but I did think of the air in the tires. Guess that's cause I
wasn't in the truck!
On Aug 27, 2008, at 2:37 PM, Mark Blackwell wrote:
Janet you didn't think of it because it was simple and often the
simple things are the easiest to overlook.
Reminds me of an old story my dad told me when we crossed a low
bridge years and years ago. He was stuck behind this truck that
was just a little bit too tall to fit under the bridge. It was
less than an inch too high, but an inch was as good as a mile.
Thing is there was no where for the truck to turn around. It was
stuck and even if it could turn around the alternate route would
have added many many hours to the trip. People caught in the jam
up started coming up with ideas to get the truck down just that
little bit. It took a drunk that happened to be passing by to come
up with the answer. My dad was laughing when the guy staggered up
to the truck, looked up at the bridge, swung around to look at the
side of the truck hanging on to the front fender to keep from
falling, then said "Let some air out of the tires and it will go
right through."
They did, and it worked. The trucker gave the drunk another half
pint of booze and everyone was happy. Just a few miles down the
road, a stop at a gas station and the air was put back in the
tires. It was so simple it was easy to overlook. In photography
I have found the best solutions are really often the simple ones,
but they are often hard to catch.
Now I guess that makes me the drunk in this case, but its too bad
you can't mail booze. Oh well. Let us know if you find some major
differences. You have my curiosity up now.
--- On Wed, 8/27/08, Janet Cull <jcull@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
From: Janet Cull <jcull@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wednesday, August 27, 2008, 12:45 PM
Mark, Thanks for taking the time to answer. I will try the
two
meters, testing one against the other. I don't know
why I didn't
think of that. I did have the shutter tested on both my
Zeiss lenses
and they're fine. Thanks again.
Janet
On Aug 26, 2008, at 10:48 PM, Mark Blackwell wrote:
I use a Minolta IVF I believe and it has an adjustment
buried in
the back so a tech could make the adjustments IIRC.
Mine can be either a reflective or incident light
meter, but to be
a reflective meter it requires an additional
attachment. Unless
you are using the extra attachment that makes it a
spot meter, then
its a incident meter and that introduces a number of
issues.
Let me suggest a couple of tests. Richard please
chime in here if
you see some things that would help.
First is if you can do it on a bright sunny day it
would be best.
Why? With that bright sunny day you have the sunny 16
rule to keep
you close. If you have a big difference between the
meters, on a
bright sunny day the most likely one to be reading
properly is the
one closest to the sunny 16. Without that all you
have is two
different meter readings.
Second compare the readings with the in external meter
and the
reading of the in camera with the camera pointed at a
gray card
with the full frame covered by the card. If the
meters readings
are close, it likely isn't the meters unless there
is a drastic
difference between what they read and the sunny 16.
If you find a
problem, Id probably just take them both to the shop.
At that
point the tech can tell you not only that they are off
and by how
much. If they can't correct the problem with an
in camera
adjustment, you can compensate for the difference
yourself.
I ran into this a few years ago and found another way
to foul up. I
had been doing a lot of 35 mm with in camera metering,
then moved
to one that had an external meter. I stuck a filter
on the lens
and forgot to compensate for the filter factor. Then
it took me a
while to figure out why I had thin negatives. Very
very unlikely
in your particular situation, but something to check
if others
happen to run into this type of thing somewhere down
the line.
One other possibility is that the problem isn't in
the metering,
but in the shutter. A slow shutter is more common, in
that time
and use tends to make springs less effective and junk
ect and all
sorts of things that happen via normal use can slow
the shutter
down, particularly at slow shutter speeds. I have
heard of a
shutter getting hung up at a higher speed than the
dial would
show. It would let you move the dial to 1/125th of a
second, but
the mechanics were stuck on 1/250th. If the shutter
is electronic
it would be highly unlikely. I guess it might still
drag, but the
electronics eliminate a lot of mechanical things that
can go wrong.
My old 4x5 shutter is about a stop slow at slower
speeds. As the
speed increase the drag drops off so there really
isn't much of an
effect the way I play with the camera. To fix it
would cost way
more than the camera is worth. I just adapt.
Now if you find that all that checks out, then Id use
what ever
processing you need to get what you are looking for in
a negative.
--- On Tue, 8/26/08, Richard Knoppow
<dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
From: Richard Knoppow
<dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tuesday, August 26, 2008, 5:34 PM
----- Original Message -----
From: <eroustom@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 3:14 PM
Subject: [pure-silver] Metering 135 vs 120
There is for me. I'm assuming
it's a
difference in
metering. My 35s
have built in meters while I use a Minolta
IVF for
the
mf. The
exposures seem to be very different so I
always
have to
add
developing time for my 120 film. I shoot
TMax
(finishing
off some
old film) and TriX.
That's an interesting problem. Why not
chase down
the
metering issue, and leave a variable out of
processing?
Your minolta is an ambient light meter (I
think), and
your
camera's TTL meter is an incident meter?
I've noticed some situations that have
given me
readings
two stops off from each other when using my
handheld
meter
against the TTL in my Canon bodies. But I
assume
it's how
I'm using the meter(s), so I work to find
the same
reading, or try to reason out why that's
happening.
Sometimes the lens (I use a 24, a 35, a 50, or
100)
brings
in less or more light to the TTL meter at the
back -
or so
it seems - or they average differently,
whereas the
handheld meter has no lens in front of it.
But an exposure value for Zone V, or 18% gray,
for a a
given ISO should be the same from meter to
meter, no?
Can anyone more experienced chime in on this?
Elias
Some meters seem to be calibrated for 12% mid
gray. In
general, however, a reflected light meter should
read the
same from an evenly illuminated 18% gray card that
fills
its
field of view as an incident light meter reading
the
illumination. There are some variations on this,
for
instance, my ancient Weston Master II does not
agree with
either my Luna Pro or with a Sekonic Studio Deluxe
(Norwood
pattern) meter. This is with the correct
equivalent Weston
speed set. I've come to the conclusion that
either
Weston
included a fudge factor in its speeds or that the
calculator
is set up for some other reflectance for the
pointer value
than 18%. In any case, I get the identical
readings when
the
Weston speed is set for about half of the speed
translated
from ISO speeds. I have a second Weston meter of a
different
type which shares this characteristic. My old GE
meter
agrees with the two more modern meters. To be
clear, the
Luna Pro and Sekonic agree exactly for both
incident and
reflected light.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
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- References:
- [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
- From: Mark Blackwell
Other related posts:
- » [pure-silver] Metering 135 vs 120
- » [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
- » [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
- » [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
- » [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
- » [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
- » [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
- » [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
- » [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
- » [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
Reminds me of an old story my dad told me when we crossed a low bridge years and years ago. He was stuck behind this truck that was just a little bit too tall to fit under the bridge. It was less than an inch too high, but an inch was as good as a mile.
Thing is there was no where for the truck to turn around. It was stuck and even if it could turn around the alternate route would have added many many hours to the trip. People caught in the jam up started coming up with ideas to get the truck down just that little bit. It took a drunk that happened to be passing by to come up with the answer. My dad was laughing when the guy staggered up to the truck, looked up at the bridge, swung around to look at the side of the truck hanging on to the front fender to keep from falling, then said "Let some air out of the tires and it will go right through."
They did, and it worked. The trucker gave the drunk another half pint of booze and everyone was happy. Just a few miles down the road, a stop at a gas station and the air was put back in the tires. It was so simple it was easy to overlook. In photography I have found the best solutions are really often the simple ones, but they are often hard to catch.
Now I guess that makes me the drunk in this case, but its too bad you can't mail booze. Oh well. Let us know if you find some major differences. You have my curiosity up now.
--- On Wed, 8/27/08, Janet Cull <jcull@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
From: Janet Cull <jcull@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120 To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wednesday, August 27, 2008, 12:45 PM Mark, Thanks for taking the time to answer. I will try the two meters, testing one against the other. I don't know why I didn't think of that. I did have the shutter tested on both my Zeiss lenses and they're fine. Thanks again. Janet On Aug 26, 2008, at 10:48 PM, Mark Blackwell wrote:I use a Minolta IVF I believe and it has an adjustmentburied inthe back so a tech could make the adjustments IIRC. Mine can be either a reflective or incident lightmeter, but to bea reflective meter it requires an additionalattachment. Unlessyou are using the extra attachment that makes it aspot meter, thenits a incident meter and that introduces a number ofissues.Let me suggest a couple of tests. Richard pleasechime in here ifyou see some things that would help. First is if you can do it on a bright sunny day itwould be best.Why? With that bright sunny day you have the sunny 16rule to keepyou close. If you have a big difference between themeters, on abright sunny day the most likely one to be readingproperly is theone closest to the sunny 16. Without that all youhave is twodifferent meter readings. Second compare the readings with the in external meterand thereading of the in camera with the camera pointed at agray cardwith the full frame covered by the card. If themeters readingsare close, it likely isn't the meters unless thereis a drasticdifference between what they read and the sunny 16.If you find aproblem, Id probably just take them both to the shop.At thatpoint the tech can tell you not only that they are offand by howmuch. If they can't correct the problem with anin cameraadjustment, you can compensate for the differenceyourself.I ran into this a few years ago and found another wayto foul up. Ihad been doing a lot of 35 mm with in camera metering,then movedto one that had an external meter. I stuck a filteron the lensand forgot to compensate for the filter factor. Thenit took me awhile to figure out why I had thin negatives. Veryvery unlikelyin your particular situation, but something to checkif othershappen to run into this type of thing somewhere downthe line.One other possibility is that the problem isn't inthe metering,but in the shutter. A slow shutter is more common, inthat timeand use tends to make springs less effective and junkect and allsorts of things that happen via normal use can slowthe shutterdown, particularly at slow shutter speeds. I haveheard of ashutter getting hung up at a higher speed than thedial wouldshow. It would let you move the dial to 1/125th of asecond, butthe mechanics were stuck on 1/250th. If the shutteris electronicit would be highly unlikely. I guess it might stilldrag, but theelectronics eliminate a lot of mechanical things thatcan go wrong.My old 4x5 shutter is about a stop slow at slowerspeeds. As thespeed increase the drag drops off so there reallyisn't much of aneffect the way I play with the camera. To fix itwould cost waymore than the camera is worth. I just adapt. Now if you find that all that checks out, then Id usewhat everprocessing you need to get what you are looking for ina negative.--- On Tue, 8/26/08, Richard Knoppow<dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:From: Richard Knoppow<dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120 To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Tuesday, August 26, 2008, 5:34 PM ----- Original Message ----- From: <eroustom@xxxxxxxxxxx> To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 3:14 PM Subject: [pure-silver] Metering 135 vs 120There is for me. I'm assumingit's adifference inmetering. My 35s have built in meters while I use a MinoltaIVF forthemf. The exposures seem to be very different so Ialwayshave toadd developing time for my 120 film. I shootTMax(finishingoff some old film) and TriX.That's an interesting problem. Why notchase downthemetering issue, and leave a variable out ofprocessing?Your minolta is an ambient light meter (Ithink), andyourcamera's TTL meter is an incident meter? I've noticed some situations that havegiven mereadingstwo stops off from each other when using myhandheldmeteragainst the TTL in my Canon bodies. But Iassumeit's howI'm using the meter(s), so I work to findthe samereading, or try to reason out why that'shappening.Sometimes the lens (I use a 24, a 35, a 50, or100)bringsin less or more light to the TTL meter at theback -or soit seems - or they average differently,whereas thehandheld meter has no lens in front of it. But an exposure value for Zone V, or 18% gray,for a agiven ISO should be the same from meter tometer, no?Can anyone more experienced chime in on this? EliasSome meters seem to be calibrated for 12% midgray. Ingeneral, however, a reflected light meter shouldread thesame from an evenly illuminated 18% gray card thatfillsits field of view as an incident light meter readingtheillumination. There are some variations on this,forinstance, my ancient Weston Master II does notagree witheither my Luna Pro or with a Sekonic Studio Deluxe(Norwoodpattern) meter. This is with the correctequivalent Westonspeed set. I've come to the conclusion thateitherWeston included a fudge factor in its speeds or that the calculator is set up for some other reflectance for thepointer valuethan 18%. In any case, I get the identicalreadings whenthe Weston speed is set for about half of the speedtranslatedfrom ISO speeds. I have a second Weston meter of a different type which shares this characteristic. My old GEmeteragrees with the two more modern meters. To beclear, theLuna Pro and Sekonic agree exactly for bothincident andreflected light. --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx============================================================================================================= To unsubscribe from this list, go towww.freelists.org andlogon to your account (the same e-mail address andpasswordyou set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribefrom there.===================================================================== ======================================== To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.organd logon toyour account (the same e-mail address and password youset-up whenyou subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.===================================================================== ========================================To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
====================================================================== ======================================= To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
- [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
- From: Mark Blackwell