[pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
- From: "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2008 20:31:52 -0700
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Blackwell" <mblackwell1958@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 7:48 PM
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
I use a Minolta IVF I believe and it has an adjustment
buried in the back so a tech could make the adjustments
IIRC.
Mine can be either a reflective or incident light meter,
but to be a reflective meter it requires an additional
attachment. Unless you are using the extra attachment
that makes it a spot meter, then its a incident meter and
that introduces a number of issues.
Let me suggest a couple of tests. Richard please chime in
here if you see some things that would help.
I think you pretty much have it. Of course, the sunny 16
rule is not precise because the strength of sunlight varies
with the seasons and with latitude, but in most places it
will be close.
Few modern meters use selenium cells but some do and
there are lots of old ones around. Selenium cells rarely go
completely dead but they often become non-linear. The usual
symptom is reading low for high light intensities. Since
most selenium meters have two overlapping ranges one can
test for a reading which is in the overlap area. It should
be essentially the same for both ranges. If the cell is bad
it will usually read low on the low range where the pointer
is near full scale in comparison to the same ligth read on
the high range where the meter is toward the low end of the
scale. Selenium meters do not have calibrating adjustments
and there is no way to correct the progressive error of a
bad cell other than replacing it.
The only warning I have about using gray cards is to be
careful of how its lighted. None I've seen has a truely
diffusing surface. If not illuminated carefully there can be
some specular reflection toward the meter which will make it
read high. Of course you can also use a white card and
correct the reading by a factor of five. Kodak used to
recommend this method for measuring exposure for graphic
arts work. Gray cards are often too small for some meters,
usualy one can find white surfaces with essentially no limit
as to size.
There is an ISO standard for exposure meters, actually
I think there are two, one for incident and another for
reflected light meters. These describe the calculation of
exposure from the measured light intensity to ISO film
speeds. Unfortunately ISO standards are not available
on-line and can be quite expensive to buy. I think its a bit
of a racket but so are a lot of things we put up with every
day.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
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- References:
- [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
- From: Mark Blackwell
Other related posts:
- » [pure-silver] Metering 135 vs 120
- » [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
- » [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
- » [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
- » [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
- » [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
- » [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
- » [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
- » [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
- » [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
Mine can be either a reflective or incident light meter, but to be a reflective meter it requires an additional attachment. Unless you are using the extra attachment that makes it a spot meter, then its a incident meter and that introduces a number of issues.
Let me suggest a couple of tests. Richard please chime in here if you see some things that would help.
- [pure-silver] Re: Metering 135 vs 120
- From: Mark Blackwell