[pure-silver] Re: Kodak vs Ilford

I am getting good results with the ADOX films right now, JANET your right
about the details, this emulsion is from the 50's and gives good results for
those who over expose 1 stop. I think the results would be better in D-76
straight instead of D-76 1:1. I have a roll in my GRAFLEX 4x5 roll film
back, I need to take some time on Sunday and shoot some easter pictures with
it, and develop it to see what I get.

On 3/21/08, Janet Cull <jcull@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> When you say, coarse and fine grain, do you mean grain that in the
> print will show up as much grain and/or little grain?  Grainy
> *looking* or smooth?  I don't want to assume I know what you mean,
> because I'm not always sure I do.
>
> Janet
>
>
> On Mar 20, 2008, at 9:59 PM, Richard Knoppow wrote:
>
> > At 06:26 PM 3/20/2008, you wrote:
> >> How do they do with Kodak developers?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On Mar 20, 2008, at 9:05 PM, Graham Hughes wrote:
> >>
> >>> HP5 I'm not so strong on, but generally speaking TMax films are
> >>> considered to be very "modern" with an extremely linear exposure
> >>> curve and little to no toe; Tri-X and HP5 have a pretty linear
> >>> exposure curve but with a noticeable toe and shoulder.  What this
> >>> means in terms of shooting is that Tri-X and HP5 will record shadow
> >>> detail that the TMax films won't necessarily (something you can
> >>> correct for by mild overexposure in-camera), but if you have a wide
> >>> range of brightness in your subject the older films will show much
> >>> less separation in the high tones.  This can be quite irritating
> >>> and require extensive fiddling in the darkroom to bring those
> >>> highlights back from muddiness.  You can partially compensate for
> >>> this by using the right paper--Forte's Polywarmtone was much
> >>> beloved in my darkroom for its ability to tame XP2's absurd
> >>> shoulder.
> >>>
> >>> The Delta films are usually reckoned to be intermediate between the
> >>> two; less tolerant of exposure errors than Tri-X or HP5, less
> >>> grainy than either, and more tolerant of exposure errors than the
> >>> equivalent TMax films.  I haven't found Delta 400, the one I shoot
> >>> the most, to be meaningfully grainy compared to TMax 400 or Tri-X,
> >>> and it is generally a trooper.  Delta 3200 is great when you need
> >>> it but I prefer Neopan 1600 for general high speed use; the Delta
> >>> film is grainier and has an odd exposure curve IMHO.  I have little
> >>> or no experience with Delta 100; I generally shoot FP4+ when I want
> >>> something around that speed, which is a delightful film.
> >>>
> >>> Graham
> >
> >
> >       The above is partially the problem with tabular grain films.
> > I think the main problem is that the contrast varies faster with
> > development than conventional films. That means they are less
> > tolerant of errors in time, agitation, temperature, than other
> > films. Also all T-grain films are capable of very high densities so
> > if you don't control exposure and developent carefully you can get
> > negatives which have very dense highlights and are hard to print.
> >
> >       As far as developers, Kodak and Ilford developers are pretty
> > much interchangeable.   Xtol is probably the optimum developer for
> > a great many films but some have had problems with it. For maximum
> > speed developers with Phenidone derivatives have some advantage
> > over other developers by perhaps 3/4 stop compared to D-76 which
> > remains the standard of comparison. Out of those Xtol will yield
> > finer grain then D-76 and the T-Max developers and DDX and
> > Microphen will give somewhat coarser grain.
> >        For the finest grain use either Microdol-X or Perceptol at
> > full strength. There is a speed loss of about 3/4 stop compared to
> > D-76 but even finer grain than with Xtol.
> >        As mentioned above 100T-Max has a very short toe
> > characteristic being in that way similar to the old Super-XX sheet
> > film. For a long toe film use Tri-X Pan Professional. Tri-X Pan
> > (not professional)  in 35mm and rolls has a conventional medium toe
> > curve as does the current Plus-X Pan and the Ilford conventional
> > roll films.
> >        The characteristic curve is shown in the data sheets for all
> > of these films and can be compared. For roll and 35mm film don't
> > forget Fuji Acros, an excellent ISO-100  T-grain film.
> >      Due to the nature of the ISO standard its a good idea to shoot
> > many films at about 80% of the ISO speed. This will often result in
> > better shadow detail.
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Richard Knoppow
> > Los Angeles, CA, USA
> > dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > ======================================================================
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-- 
I am a leaf on the wind! Watch how I soar.
                 -Hoban "Wash" Washburn
                        (serenity movie)
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