[pure-silver] Re: Iron Toners

  • From: "Graham Max" <gtm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2007 00:50:43 +0100

The Somerville two-stage blue toner will give more subtle tones than a
direct toner. It does not intensify the print and, depending on the degree
of bleaching, can produce split tones or replace the blacks with blue. The
formula below is from Larry Bartlett's B & W Printing Workshop.

If contamination is avoided, both solutions will keep well and can be
re-used to exhaustion.

Bath 1 ( Bleach )
Potassium ferricyanide, 10% solution        200 ml
Ammonia, 10%                                             100 ml
Water to                                                         1000 ml

Test the effect of varying degrees of bleaching. Partial bleaching will
produce a split-toned print, bleach to finality and even the darkest tones
will be replaced by shades of blue.

Wash VERY thoroughly between baths, preferably with slightly acidified
water.
It's worth testing with scraps of print and small volumes of toner to see
how long you need to wash because the slightest carry-over of bleach will
produce a blue precipitate, impossible to remove, which will ruin the print
AND the toner bath.

Bath 2 ( Toner )
Ferrous sulphate                                            20 g
Hydrochloric acid, 10%                                100 ml
Water to                                                         1000ml

I find that the process is more controllable if the toning bath is weaker
than shown in the formula, and I make it up at  half the strength shown - it
will still keep well.

The final wash should be acidified to preserve the blue tone. Conversely, to
weaken the tone, try slightly alkaline water.

Blue toning seems to emphasise any marks on the emulsion surface, so handle
the print with extreme care at all stages. The counsel of perfection is to
use over-sized paper, touch only the edges and trim the dried print back to
the required size.

Only experiment will show how individual papers will respond to toning - I
find it helps to keep all the test strips for any prints intended for toning
and use them for toner tests.

Graham Max,
Somerset, UK

.














----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric Nelson" <emanmb@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 6:29 PM
Subject: [pure-silver] Iron Toners


I need to Blue (iron) tone a print today and was
looking at my formula I've used in the past and
comparing with those I found online.
What I've used in the past is this formula:
SOLUTION A
WATER                                            206
mls
POTASSIUM FERRICYANIDE        2 gms
GLACIAL ACETIC ACID                  30 mls

SOLUTION B
WATER
         309 mls
FERRIC AMMONIUM CITRATE (GREEN)     3 gms
GLACIAL ACETIC ACID
45 mls

As I recall and from samples I have that I did a long
time ago, the borders aquire a blue cast as well.  I'm
wondering if anyone has any experience with other
formulas such as this one that might NOT tone the
borders as well.

TONER WORKING SOLUTION A
Distilled Water (120°F/48°C) 500 ml
Ferric Ammonium Citrate              8g
Potassium Ferricyanide              8g
Succinic (tartaric) acid*             37 g
Distilled Water to make         1000 ml

Eric


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