The Somerville two-stage blue toner will give more subtle tones than a direct toner. It does not intensify the print and, depending on the degree of bleaching, can produce split tones or replace the blacks with blue. The formula below is from Larry Bartlett's B & W Printing Workshop. If contamination is avoided, both solutions will keep well and can be re-used to exhaustion. Bath 1 ( Bleach ) Potassium ferricyanide, 10% solution 200 ml Ammonia, 10% 100 ml Water to 1000 ml Test the effect of varying degrees of bleaching. Partial bleaching will produce a split-toned print, bleach to finality and even the darkest tones will be replaced by shades of blue. Wash VERY thoroughly between baths, preferably with slightly acidified water. It's worth testing with scraps of print and small volumes of toner to see how long you need to wash because the slightest carry-over of bleach will produce a blue precipitate, impossible to remove, which will ruin the print AND the toner bath. Bath 2 ( Toner ) Ferrous sulphate 20 g Hydrochloric acid, 10% 100 ml Water to 1000ml I find that the process is more controllable if the toning bath is weaker than shown in the formula, and I make it up at half the strength shown - it will still keep well. The final wash should be acidified to preserve the blue tone. Conversely, to weaken the tone, try slightly alkaline water. Blue toning seems to emphasise any marks on the emulsion surface, so handle the print with extreme care at all stages. The counsel of perfection is to use over-sized paper, touch only the edges and trim the dried print back to the required size. Only experiment will show how individual papers will respond to toning - I find it helps to keep all the test strips for any prints intended for toning and use them for toner tests. Graham Max, Somerset, UK .----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric Nelson" <emanmb@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 6:29 PM Subject: [pure-silver] Iron Toners
I need to Blue (iron) tone a print today and was looking at my formula I've used in the past and comparing with those I found online. What I've used in the past is this formula: SOLUTION A WATER 206 mls POTASSIUM FERRICYANIDE 2 gms GLACIAL ACETIC ACID 30 mls SOLUTION B WATER 309 mls FERRIC AMMONIUM CITRATE (GREEN) 3 gms GLACIAL ACETIC ACID 45 mls As I recall and from samples I have that I did a long time ago, the borders aquire a blue cast as well. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with other formulas such as this one that might NOT tone the borders as well. TONER WORKING SOLUTION A Distilled Water (120°F/48°C) 500 ml Ferric Ammonium Citrate 8g Potassium Ferricyanide 8g Succinic (tartaric) acid* 37 g Distilled Water to make 1000 ml Eric __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ============================================================================================================= To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there. -- This email has been verified as Virus free Virus Protection and more available at http://www.plus.net
============================================================================================================= To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.