I don¹t disagree with your explanation, but split-grade printing does not increase local contrast beyond maximum paper contrast. Regards Ralph W. Lambrecht http://www.darkroomagic.com On 2005-09-18 17:08, "Camclicker@xxxxxxx" <Camclicker@xxxxxxx> wrote: > In a message dated 9/18/2005 10:06:13 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > peter.badcock@xxxxxxxxx writes: >> >> Hi there, >> >> I was printing up a photo tonight, from a roll of 35mm HIE and I have a dark >> windmill set against a blue sky. Because I had an R72 (89b) IR Filter on, >> the blue sky is very dark - which is quite typical of IR shots. >> >> >> >> The film has already been developed and I am now printing using Ilford MG IV >> RC pearl paper. Even if I use a grade 5 filter, I can't seen to get >> sufficient contrast between the dark sky and the windmill blades. I can >> scan the print in tomorrow if it helps woth suggestions, but without changing >> paper brands or doing (selenium) toning, is there anything else I could try >> to get an increase in local contrast to make the windmill blades stand out >> more against the sky? >> >> >> >> regards >> >> Peter > There is a whole subject of Split Grade Printing with hundreds of disciples > who will, I'm sure, give you specific directions. Simply put it is a system > where you determine your highlight exposure in terms of contrast and your > shadow exposure in terms of density. > > Your contrast exposure is found using a "0 Grade" filter by step wedge with > the Yellow filter and then the density ("Grade 5") is applied on top of the > contrast exposure with the Magenta filter. The density (Magenta) step wedge > is found on top of the decided upon Yellow exposure. > > As I said, there are many advocates of Split Grade printing, I am just one and > I'm sure there are some who will disagree with my explanation, but that's what > makes the world go around. > > Bruce > Brooklyn, NY > camclicker@xxxxxxx > www.camclicker.com >