-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- Hash: SHA1 Ray Rogers wrote: | --- On Mon, 10/19/09, Jean-David Beyer <jeandavid8@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: | | " A very few are interested in Lippmann color photography. A very few are | interested in making the little dots for half-tone photography (I have | done it with ruled glass crossline screens generously donated to me by | Max Levy & CO of Philadelphia, the very company that made screens for | F.E.Ives way back when." | | Well, I would be very interested in both, particularly the former, but | your results with the latter sounds interesting as well! As I said in the private e-mail, I never worked on non-Lippman plates. That was my great-grandfather, F.E.Ives who did that. He made plates because he preferred the ones he made to those he could buy. His were panchromatic. Also, when making half-tones, he needed lithographic plates, and there were no such things, so he figured out how to make some very high contrast ones, and devised means to intensify the ones he got to obtain even greater contrast. http://www.nndb.com/people/955/000167454/ I never investigated that. I am not a photo researcher. My grandfather, H.E.Ives did that. He published that in _The Physical Review_ in 1907. He published more in _Astrophysical Journal_ in 1908, "An Experimental Study of the Lippman Color Photograph" and briefly summarizes it in his Rumford Medal Lecture in 1951, "Adventures With Standing Waves". http://www.nndb.com/people/456/000169946/ As far as half-tone work is concerned, What I do is put a negative of what I want in my enlarger, and a sheet of Kodak Ortholith in my enlarging easel. A small distance above the Ortholith I place a glass sealed half-tone screen. I set the aperture of the enlarging lens to what I need, depending on the screen ruling, screen height, and the negative contrast, and set the exposure time to get a proper exposure. If I wish to burn the highlights, I stop the lens down and expose some more. With the lens stopped down, it will give additional exposure to the highlights, but will not expose the shadows any more. I then develop the Ortholith normally, which in this case is in Kodak's Ortholith developer. This looks good to the naked eye, but is not very good as the dots are called "soft." So I contact print that to another sheet of ortholith to get a hard-dot positive. If that is what I want, I stop there. If I want a hard-dot negative, I contact print that a second time. Whether I want a positive or a negative depends on the plates required for the press I will use. What the half-tone screen is can be described as follows: Take a piece of glass and rule parallel lines on it with a ruling engine, something like what is used to make a diffraction grating. Make the lines and spaces between them of equal width, and fill in the ruled lines with black opaque stuff and clean off the un-ruled area. Do this with another picee of glass and mount them at right angles to one another. I am pretty sure they are glued together with something like Canada Balsam. The thing is then held more firmly together with a frame of aluminum. You get a lot of little square holes. I have two of these screens (about 8" x 10") donated by Max Levy & Co of Philadelphia who made the screens for my great grandfather over a century ago. One is ruled 65 lines per inch and the other is ruled 150 lines per inch. If you put this in the optical path between the enlarger lens and the ortholith film, each hole in the screen is a pinhole, as in a pinhole camera and it makes an image of the aperture of the enlarging lens, and the intensity of the light is proportional (inversely) to the density of the corresponding part of the negative above the lens. Now since there is lith film under the screen, only the brightest part of the transmitted light will develop. In my case, the aperture diaphragm is circular, so I get round dots whose diameter is proportional to the light intensity. So if a lot of light comes through, I get a big dot, and if little light comes through, I get a little dot. You should be able to figure all this out if you think about it a while. | | "I do not know if you propose to send me personal information that you do | not want seen by the list, but if that is the case, how do you know I am | trustworthy to keep it secret? And even then, you would have to consider | sending it to me encrypted." | | Ha! I endevor to live my life in such a way that secrets are unnecessary. | Unfortunately, it never ceases to amaze me how the simplest truth can be | used so effectively as a weapon. Ever have an argument with a loved | one?!! Oh well.... | I guess not. I have had disagreements upon which we have never come to agreement once in a while, but never arguments. - -- ~ .~. Jean-David Beyer Registered Linux User 85642. ~ /V\ PGP-Key: 9A2FC99A Registered Machine 241939. ~ /( )\ Shrewsbury, New Jersey http://counter.li.org ~ ^^-^^ 06:00:01 up 18 days, 14:59, 3 users, load average: 4.73, 4.44, 4.31 -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE----- Version: GnuPG v1.4.5 (GNU/Linux) Comment: Using GnuPG with CentOS - http://enigmail.mozdev.org/ iD8DBQFK3D8TPtu2XpovyZoRAqBVAJ42/VPd5UNIdNPI/fVF7qV77qlNhQCdFeui 11fER4SUhYej8wFCMxex7Es= =sdhS -----END PGP SIGNATURE----- ============================================================================================================= To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.