[pure-silver] Re: Efke processing

No funny business at all.  Very clean negs.  Very sharp and "tactile" with 
normal contrast at asa 25 outdoors.  By tactile, I mean rocks look like rocks.  
Like you could touch the print and feel granite.  Like that. Don't take my word 
for it.  Just try it.
> 
> From: jeffrey <puresilver@xxxxxxxxx>
> Date: 2005/05/26 Thu PM 10:22:23 EDT
> To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Efke processing
> 
> Uhmmm... If this works, then everything I learned about film 
> agitation gets thrown out the window.
> 
> So you don't see mottled areas, or flattened highlights?
> 
> I suppose this works because of the extreme dilution.... the 
> developing agent(s) 'migrates' thru the solution...??....
> 
> 
> 
> >Efke 25 is really fragile when it's wet.
> >
> >BTW,  I've "discovered" a really lovely way to develop Efke 25. 
> >Just use Rodinal 1:100 with a 30 sec water rinse or so, then no 
> >agitation at all for 25 min at 68 degrees.  Try it and tell me what 
> >you think.  I can use the 25 min for all sorts of things and the 
> >Efke has this really beautiful "edginess" to it when developed this 
> >way.  No wierdness at all in several rolls and my best results with 
> >this film by far.
> >>
> >>  From: "Kevin Halcrow" <crowks@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> >>  Date: 2005/05/26 Thu PM 08:59:04 EDT
> >>  To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >>  Subject: [pure-silver] Efke processing
> >>
> >>  I processed, for the first time, a roll of Efke 25 35mm film last
> >>  weekend. Because of my unfamiliarity with this film, I ran off 15
> >>  exposures,  six blank frames, and another 15 exposures, then
> >>  processed the first set of exposures with 5min in 1+4 TMax developer
> >>  at 20C and the second set with the 2-bath compensating developer I
> >>  generally use for TMax (Barry Thornton recipe). With the first half I
> >>  also did an initial 1 min soak in water and a brief stop bath of water
> >>  between developer and fix, as recommended by the film's suppliers
> >>  (JandC Photo).
> >>  As I was about to do a "finger squeegee" with the washed first set, I
> >>  noticed light marks on an unexposed part of the film that clearly had
> >>  come from handling this part of the film. Running my fingertip
> >>  deliberately across the same area caused more damage.
> >>
> >>  The second set of exposures, processed in the 2-bath developer,
> >>  didn't have this problem and I could wipe unexposed areas without
> >>  harm. Both pieces of film seem to be well developed and I don't notice
> >>  any pronounced differences between them, apart from a slightly
> >>  greater overall density in the TMax-developed exposures. Grain
> >>  structure seems similar in both though differences may show up when
> >>  I do some printing.
> >>
> >>  The first half of the film was processed in a Nikor metal tank, the
> >>  second half in a plastic Paterson tank; I can't believe that this would
> >>  have had any effect on the processing. Could anyone suggest what
> >>  might have caused my different results with the two developers?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> 
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> >
> >Be Just And Fear Not
> >
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Be Just And Fear Not

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