[pure-silver] Re: D-Max with pyro

Gerald, Couldn't one just dilute the NaOH more and then allow for higher
volumes to be used later? I know that it will change over time if mixed into
solution, but I don't believe that it is that much. How much are you taking
about? Drops or mls at a time? 

Eric

Eric Neilsen Photography
4101 Commerce Street
Suite 9
Dallas, TX 75226
http://e.neilsen.home.att.net
http://ericneilsenphotography.com
 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:pure-silver-
> bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Koch, Gerald
> Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 8:30 AM
> To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: D-Max with pyro
> 
> Sodium hydroxide, being such a strong alkali, is rather hard to control.
> I would suggest adding small amounts of sodium metaborate (Kodalk) until
> the pH of the Flexicolor fixer is what you want.  Keep track of the
> total amount for subsequent batches.  I suggest sodium metabrate as
> Kodak suggests using it instead of borax to raise the pH of one of their
> fixers.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of john stockdale
> Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 7:49 PM
> To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: D-Max with pyro
> 
> 
> At 08:20 AM  15/12/2005, Russ Gorman wrote:
> ><snip>
> >It seems that using a water stop bath , and TF-4 fixer, to be a huge
> >part of getting consistent stain.  It is easy to make the stain
> >disappear ( either completely or unevenly) with an acid stop or with
> >traditional fixer. Weak fixer can also lead to uneven stain as well as
> >uneven clearing of silver.
> >
> >That said, to the eye the negatives tend to look a little brownish (
> >some emulsions look greenish or yellowish) and a little thinner than
> >negs developed in Rodinal or D-76 but not greatly so.  They also tend
> >to have lots of information in the shadows and highlights in spite of
> >their "thinner" appearence. The difference is not really apparent until
> 
> >they are on a light table side by side with negatives developed in
> >other chemistry.
> >
> >One of the nice things due to tanning of the emulsion in Pyro is that
> >they are dust and scratch free... Clear skies and smooth clean skin.
> 
> Consistency seems to be important, and I have found that new PMK did not
> 
> give as much stain as when somewhat older.  Now I top up my aged PMK
> with a
> little of a new batch so that I don't have any sudden changes.
> 
> I have been using a slightly alkaline fixer (Agfa FX-Universal, pH=7.5
> approx, made for C-41 primarily but quite ok for black and white).  My
> stain is consistently olive/khaki, but nowhere near as green as some
> I've
> seen on web pages.  With the demise of Agfa, and with importation to the
> 
> end of the Earth here of Formulary products impractical, I might have to
> 
> start mixing up some slightly alkaline fixer.  I bought some Kodak
> Flexicolor Fixer the other day (pH=6.1) and was disapponted that it has
> the
> characteristic "acidic" smell of ordinary acid fixers, even though it is
> 
> not as acidic as they are.  I might add something alkaline to it.  Would
> a
> tiny bit of sodium hydroxide be ok?
> 
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