[pure-silver] Re: D-Max with pyro

I think in later editions of Gordon's book of pyro, he may have changed his
process. I know back in 1999 or 2000 he discussed a change while at the
Formulary for a workshop he was teaching. Bud or Lynn may be aware of that. 

Eric Neilsen Photography
4101 Commerce Street, Suite 9
Dallas, TX 75226
214-827-8301
http://ericneilsenphotography.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:pure-silver-
> bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Koch, Gerald
> Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 1:01 PM
> To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: D-Max with pyro
> 
> >I have found that a wash
> >with Sodium Metaborate makes a big difference
> 
> Others claim that an alkaline rinse like metaborate does
> nothing more
> than increase the overall stain and contributes nothing to the
> image.
> Since this stain is not formed during image formation I would
> tend to
> agree with this comment.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Bob
> Adler
> Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 12:24 PM
> To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: D-Max with pyro
> 
> 
> Dear All,
> 
> I have just begun developing with PMK's pyro and am
> very happy with the results. I have found that a wash
> with Sodium Metaborate makes a big difference (did a
> role with and a role without). This is analogous to a
> developer post wash, I believe. Seems to really
> increase the range and gradation of the final
> negative, to my naked eye...
> 
> To change the topic slightly, I scan my negatives. If
> any of you have experience scanning stained negatives,
> the question I have is do you scan as a grayscale or
> do you scan as RGB and then convert to grayscale (I
> use the Photoshop channel mixer tool to tune the red,
> green or blue channels when I normaly convert an RGB
> file to grayscale)? Seems this discussion has stated
> that with a densiometer different readings are
> obtained from stained negatives because of different
> absorbtions of red,
> green and blue from a regularly developed negative.
> 
> So again, my question as to whether it is better to
> scan stained negatives as RGB and then convert or just
> scan as grayscale. Opinions would be greatly
> appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Bob
> 
> --- Eric Neilsen Photography
> <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> 
> > In my experience, that amount of stain will change
> > depending on wash time,
> > quality of water and several other factors. If
> > you're sure all your
> > variables are kept to a minimum the change in stain
> > should reflect that.
> >
> > I have used PMK, and Rollo, with and without using
> > the developer as a post
> > developing step; change pH.
> >
> > Eric Neilsen Photography
> > 4101 Commerce Street
> > Suite 9
> > Dallas, TX 75226
> > http://e.neilsen.home.att.net
> http://ericneilsenphotography.com
> >
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > [mailto:pure-silver-
> > > bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Jeffrey Thorns
> > > Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 4:50 PM
> > > To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > > Subject: [pure-silver] Re: D-Max with pyro
> > >
> > > >Jeffrey Thorns wrote:
> > > >
> > > >>For those of you that use a pyro developer,
> > > >>
> > > >>Is it normal for the D-Max on a pyro-developed
> > piece of film to be
> > > >>noticably less than that with 'normal' developer
> > on the same type
> > > >>of film? (I don't have a densitometer, so I
> > can't give you a
> > > >>reading, but it is very noticeable, side by
> > side.)
> > > >>
> > > >>When I look at the leader of film done in, say,
> > Diafine, then at
> > > >>the leader done in WD2D+, the density is
> > noticeably less with the
> > > >>pyro film. I've noticed that I have to print
> > pyro negs with higher
> > > >>contrast than non-pyro, but I understand that is
> > somewhat
> > > >>understandable, because pyro is a little
> > softer-acting that a
> > > >>normal developer. (?)
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > >Negatives developed in a staining Pyro developer
> > will tend to look
> > > >thinner than negatives developed in a standard
> > developer.
> > > >Densitometers don't work real well with Pyro negs
> > anyway, as the
> > > >stain is very complex.  The best way to tell if a
> > Pyro neg is
> > > >exposed/developed correctly is to make a print on
> > you standard
> > > >contrast printing paper.
> > >
> > > Do you find that the amount of stain is not
> > consistant?
> > >
> > > What I mean is, it seems that, for the same type
> > of film, some days
> > > (batches of film) the stain seems stronger than
> > other days.
> > > Sometimes, there seems to be little stain at all.
> > >
> > > It also seems to vary by film. I just did some
> > Fuji Acros last night,
> > > and I'm not sure I see any stain at all.
> > >
> > >
> >
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> 
> 
> Bob Adler
> Palo Alto, CA
> http://www.raflexions.com
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