[pure-silver] Re: Building sink again
- From: Mark Blackwell <mblackwell1958@xxxxxxxxx>
- To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2007 21:03:11 -0800 (PST)
Again a thanks to all for the ideas. The interior of my sink will will be 24
inches wide. No option there. Any more and it won't fit in the space I have.
It should be enough for my needs. 16x20 is about as big as I ever go and I am
hopeful that 4 of those trays will fit in the length of space I have. Again
that's fixed.
Though the length of the sink had me planning a long hose type of faucet to
reach its entire length, I hadn't considered adding more than one spot for
which to work. That might pay dividends and will look into how to do that if
its feasible for my space. Great idea.
In my old darkroom what I had was far from ideal in any respect. It was a sink
that was about 24 inches deep, but it was still an improvement from the bath
tubs Id used in times past so I have learned to be glad with what you have and
do the best you can with what you have to do with. My initial reaction was
to cut that by about half, but even that I might have been too much. I had
begun to lean towards 6 to 8 inches. Thanks Jim you confirmed my hunch was
about right and will likely go with 8. If its too high, I can cut it back
later but I can't add it once cut.
I hadn't thought of a backsplash, though after re working the counter tops at
the old place for the wife I should have. There may be some easy ways to deal
with that to make clean up a bit easier.
Using a roof coating for waterproofing makes sense, but its again something I
hadn't thought of. Definately an option as well as the multiple coats of expoy
paint.
One other thing I might put in is a second drain, well not really in that it
will be just into a bucket. I thought it might be a good idea to have it to
pour stuff down that you don't want to go down the drain, using a simple
stopper to keep it closed when you want the water to go down the drain. When
you want it in the bucket, just move the stopper over. Stop them both up for
it to hold water.
It will also have to be fairly quickly disconnected. IF or should I say when
the washer has to be worked on or replaced, there won't be room to get it out
without moving it out of the way. I am not looking forward to that day at all.
All good ideas. All have made me think. Though there won't be a lot of cash
involved in building this, I hope its a one time project. (unless I do one for
someone else someday) The ideas have gone a long way to see that I don't have
to rebuild it because of something I didn't think about.
Howard Efner <hfefner@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
On Feb 10, 2007, at 2:16 PM, Mark Blackwell wrote:
> Well finally construction of my darkroom sink is about to begin.
Mark, having stayed out of the first go-around on the sink, me chime
in now. My sink is about 6 inches deep - 17 ft long and about 23
inches wide. Will take 16x20 trays and some 20x24 trays depending on
make. Should have made it a hair wider.
The front board is 2x8 so the depth is about 6 inches. Works nice.
2x10 on the back to serve as a back-splash and to carry the
plumbing. Everything else framed with 2X lumber and a 3/4 inch
plywood deck inside. Sloped everything at about 1/8 inch per foot
towards the drain. For waterproofing, all the seams were caulked
with paintable flexible (butyl) caulk, given a couple of coats of
elastomeric rubber roof coating (elastoseal or kool seal) primer.
Non-woven dacron reinforcing was bedded into the corners and seams.
After the primer dried ( it still stays tacky) the finish coats of
rubber roof coating were applied. A layer of FIBERGLASS screen was
bedded into the finish layers to serve as a wear layer inside the
sink. The finish coat gave a nice white sink that was waterproof.
If is gets too grungy, simply apply another coat of the finish
coating to bring it back to new. Mine has stood up well to silver,
platinum/palladium, and carbon printing duty. The nice thing about
the water born roof coatings is that they do not have the solvent
stink of oil paint or fiberglass resin. Some mild ammonia odor as
they are applied and dry. Use a foam brush!. They are available at
most of the big box home stores or through RV supply houses.
Good luck with your project.
Howard
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