[pure-silver] Re: Building a darkroom sink

On Wed, 13 Dec 2006 21:12:12 -0600, "Mark Blackwell"
<mblackwell1958@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

>Well it looks like I am finally going to have space to build a custom 
>darkroom sink.  Will have to be built because of size and plumbing 
>considerations.
>
>My first reaction is to build it with wood, seal the cracks with silicone 
>caulk and then fiberglass over it.  Paint would then be either an epoxy or a 
>boat paint.  Part of me say I might need marine plywood, but with the 
>fiberglass and paint .  Im also going to build a top to go over the top that 
>will fit in that make the sink serve as a table should the need arise.
>
>If its practical wood would be the preferred material because I have far 
>more woodworking skills than anything else.  And yea I hate plumbing like 
>most people.
>
>Who knows this maybe the the plumbing project Ive dreamed of all my life. 
>Whats that?  Well hopefully one day before I die, I will start a plumbing 
>project, plan it out, make one trip to the hardware or plumbing store to get 
>everything I need, come home, put it all together and have everything go 
>together exactly as I planned it, with no leaks and no extra trips to the 
>store needed.  Will it happen?  I doubt it but its a nice dream.
>
>Mark 

ONE trip to the store??  I've never been able to accomplish that with ANY
project I've done.  :-)  My sink is built from 3/4" exterior plywood, glued &
screwed together.  Then, I coated it with 3 coats of West System marine epoxy,
and painted with "topside" boat paint.  The only problem I've had is the paint
staining from C-41 chemicals.  It's 3 years old, and no leaks at all.  The sink
is 8ft long, 30" wide, 8" deep at the front, and 35" high.  The back is higher
to accomodate faucets and a shelf.  

With the darkroom in the basement, I had to build it in place.  Not ideal, but
it worked.  My sink has a very slight slope toward the drain, enough to drain
it, but not so much that the leveling wedges for a Jobo won't work.  

One caveat if you use the West System epoxy - when it cures fully, "waxy" layer
on top that has to be sanded off before recoating.  I used "sanding sponges"
made for drywall & wet sanded.  It didn't take all that long to do.  I could
have put subsequent coats on without sanding if I hadn't waited overnight
between coats.  

One other thing - double the thickness of the front edge.  It's a lot more
comfortable to rest your arms on.

There's a couple pictures of mine on my web page.
http://destarr.com/darkroom-1.html

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Retired Shop Rat: 14,647 days in a GM plant.
Now I can do what I enjoy: Large Format Photography

Web Site: www.destarr.com
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