On Wed, 13 Dec 2006 21:12:12 -0600, "Mark Blackwell" <mblackwell1958@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: >Well it looks like I am finally going to have space to build a custom >darkroom sink. Will have to be built because of size and plumbing >considerations. > >My first reaction is to build it with wood, seal the cracks with silicone >caulk and then fiberglass over it. Paint would then be either an epoxy or a >boat paint. Part of me say I might need marine plywood, but with the >fiberglass and paint . Im also going to build a top to go over the top that >will fit in that make the sink serve as a table should the need arise. > >If its practical wood would be the preferred material because I have far >more woodworking skills than anything else. And yea I hate plumbing like >most people. > >Who knows this maybe the the plumbing project Ive dreamed of all my life. >Whats that? Well hopefully one day before I die, I will start a plumbing >project, plan it out, make one trip to the hardware or plumbing store to get >everything I need, come home, put it all together and have everything go >together exactly as I planned it, with no leaks and no extra trips to the >store needed. Will it happen? I doubt it but its a nice dream. > >Mark ONE trip to the store?? I've never been able to accomplish that with ANY project I've done. :-) My sink is built from 3/4" exterior plywood, glued & screwed together. Then, I coated it with 3 coats of West System marine epoxy, and painted with "topside" boat paint. The only problem I've had is the paint staining from C-41 chemicals. It's 3 years old, and no leaks at all. The sink is 8ft long, 30" wide, 8" deep at the front, and 35" high. The back is higher to accomodate faucets and a shelf. With the darkroom in the basement, I had to build it in place. Not ideal, but it worked. My sink has a very slight slope toward the drain, enough to drain it, but not so much that the leveling wedges for a Jobo won't work. One caveat if you use the West System epoxy - when it cures fully, "waxy" layer on top that has to be sanded off before recoating. I used "sanding sponges" made for drywall & wet sanded. It didn't take all that long to do. I could have put subsequent coats on without sanding if I hadn't waited overnight between coats. One other thing - double the thickness of the front edge. It's a lot more comfortable to rest your arms on. There's a couple pictures of mine on my web page. http://destarr.com/darkroom-1.html - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Retired Shop Rat: 14,647 days in a GM plant. Now I can do what I enjoy: Large Format Photography Web Site: www.destarr.com - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ============================================================================================================To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.