[pure-silver] Re: 3200 Concert Film
- From: "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 12:00:09 -0800
----- Original Message -----
From: "Justin F. Knotzke" <jknotzke@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 4:56 AM
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: 3200 Concert Film
<quote who=Jon Mided, date=[25/02/2006 6:53]/>
If you aren't experienced with shooting under these
conditions, then the likelihood is that your film is just
underexposed. Many people produce very thin negs when
they first shoot a concert, so there is no reason to
suppose that your Xtol isn't working. If the edge numbers
aren't visible, then the development is certainly the
problem, but otherwise its just your light meter being
fooled by the brighter areas on the stage.
I'll know for sure when the colour negs come back. If
they are thin, then it was a metering problem.
But when I say thin, I don't mean a little thin, I
mean thin to the point where you have to literally strain
your eyes to see any semblance of an image. If each frame
had a bright light in it, then I could see where the meter
was fooled. I metered in Matrix using an F5..
The frame numbers are visible, but barely.
J
This is pretty much the symptoms I had. My film was T-Max
100, exposed in daylight in a Nikon F with a quite accurate
built-in meter. The images were very thin and the edge
printing was very thin. My clip test proved that it was the
developer and not exposure.
I have no idea what the chemical problems is and am
skeptical of most explanations.
I mixed the developer with tap water. Chloramines are
used locally for disinfecting but they do not usually have
any effect on photo chemicals. I use the same water to mix
and dilute D-76 with no evident problems. Chloramines can be
removed by an activated charcoal filter, like a Brita
filter, but not by boiling as Chlorine can. If I was doing
color work here I would both boil and filter the water.
Xtol is probably an optimum developer for T-Max, when it
works. For pushing developers like T-Max, T-Max RS,
Microphen, and DDX are the best. These are similar in
working solution, the differences being in the necessities
of formulating the liquid concentrates. All deliver slightly
greater speed than D-76 but also slightly more grain. Xtol
seems to be able to give the same speed but with less grain.
Ryuji Suzuki has some discussion of Xtol type developers
on his web site and gives some alternative formulas which
have similar performance and appear to be more reliable.
However, you must mix them yourself.
I it extrmely unlikely that Kodak will ever fix the
problem because they no longer have an R&D department and
are no longer interested in "chemical" photography.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
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