[modeleng] Re: 'oles
- From: Doug Edwards <stueart@xxxxxxxxx>
- To: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Mon, 07 Mar 2005 07:37:18 -0800
I agree with what Jesse has said, and will add a couple more comments.
I thin the web of the
drill when drilling hard stuff. On the standard sharpening of a drill,
the center part of the drill just
rubs against the material, which promotes work hardening if care is not
taken. I also find a
heavy center punch on location tends to help. A sharp drill makes the
job go a whole
lot easier.
I no longer buy HSS endmills under 1/4". Over all in the smaller sizes,
carbide is a whole
lot cheaper for what I do, and carbide will go through the spring steel
very easily.
My personal first choice would be to punch the hole. I remember plans
for a small
hole punch in ME in the mid to late 50's. It has been on my to do list
for a number of
years.
Regards,
Doug
JESSE LIVINGSTON wrote:
>Spring steel can usually (noticed I said USUALLY) be drilled by running the
>drill very slowly, using plenty of thread cutting oil and keeping a steady
>and relentless pressure against the drill bit. If the drill ever makes a
>turn without removing metal the steel will instantly case/work harden and
>all forward progress will cease. This same system works on stainless steels
>that work harden when drilling.
>
>Unka Jesse
>
>
>
--
Doug Edwards
Stueart@xxxxxxxxx
Building a 70 ton Willamette in 1.6"
http://www.rad45.org/Supplies.htm
Building a 80 ton Climax in 1.6"
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