[modeleng] Re: clack valves

Hi,
I second Tel?s manner of making a little volcano. Sounds terrifying ? 
Wherever possible I always try to make the seat removable from the body of
the valve. usually I end up with a sort of screw in plug. Made in this way
things turn into a simple straightforward turning job. No poking into blind
holes.
This is my way. 
Turn and finish the plug complete with the screw tread and all. Save the
hole till last and drill it the pilot size for a reamer of the correct
diameter. Now set a side cutting tool so it bevels off the top face of the
plug , say 5° is ample. Take care to form the taper straight up to the hole.
Don?t leave a flat !!. Now run a hand reamer into the hole but don?t do it
right true, just clean up the entrance with the taper part. The result
should be a nice clean sharp edge.
Last operation is to lay a peace of drawing paper on the surface plate. Take
a NEW ball of the right size, place the seat on to and scribe a figure 8
with only a little pressure.
Mount the lot in the body of the valve and there you go. 
When the leaking starts after a while. Just dismantle and put in the plug in
the lathe and repeat the facing, reaming and figure 8 with a new ball and
things are back to new.
Regards
Wilfried Vermeiren
http://users.skynet.be/modelbouw.wilfried


-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: modeleng-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:modeleng-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Namens TEL
Verzonden: dinsdag 17 maart 2009 20:05
Aan: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Onderwerp: [modeleng] Re: The ban on paint stripper and clack valves

If you grind a slight angle on the D bit you use to cut the seat, so 
that it forms a little 'volcano' in the bottom of the hole, you will 
make a perfect fit every time with a bit of a whack with a ball and 
brass drift. I've made quite a lot of 'em, and pumps, and never had to 
do one twice.


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