[modeleng] Re: Photobucket
- From: "Jeff D" <jeffdayman@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 00:57:23 +0000
Hi Al and listers,
I had put in a proper email header for the email to the list, but
Photobucket deleted it somehow. Anyway I'm glad you liked the photos. Thanks
for your kind comments. The parts are for a 1.5" scale Bill Harris
steamroller I'm making.
A quick recap of the steps to get the cylinders to this point and the
reasoning:
1. started with a 2x2" continuous cast iron bar. Nice homogenous material
and inexpensive. I paid about $10 for a one foot piece of 2x2. It machines
beautifully as you can see.(I did price Stuart castings but they would have
been several hundred dollars, and I just can't afford that especially if
there's a blowhole or I screw up.)
2. I faced one side of the block and bored both cylinders at the same setup
so I know that the bores are square to the face. I marked this face next to
each bore with an extra centredrill dimple, 1 for no.1 and 2 for no.2 so I
know these are the master datum faces for future machining. The bores were
drilled 11/16, bored to .745, then reamed to .750" and a nice finish.
3. drilled and tapped 3-48 for cyl cover screws while on same DRO setup as
the boring, so the holes will be on location within a thou or so.
4. flipped the block over and faced the opposite side parallel to the first
and at the right height. Since both cyls were milled at the same setting I
know they are the same length. Also drilled and tapped this side's cyl cover
holes.
4. separated the two cyls by sawing.
5. setup and machined the port face on each cylinder, and drilled and tapped
steamchest mounting holes 3-48.
6. set up each cyl at 30 degrees with a setting gauge and milled a small
counterbore at the bore to end face junction. This gives a flat face for a
centredrill and the port drill to start on. Then it's a simple matter to
drill to the port face opening. To make sure I didn't drill too deep and cut
past the inlet port and thru to the exhausr port, I used a 'dancer'. These
can take many forms but in this case I just cut a piece of shim stock wide
enough to fit the milled port opening in the port face, and held it with a
wood clothespin. When drilling downward, when the drill broke through and
touched the shim stock the shim and clothespin started dancing around, I
knew I was deep enough. Old trick but works good.
7. set up again and drilled, tapped 1/4"-40 and counterbored 3/8" dia for
exhaust port.
8. set up again and drilled and tapped 5-40 for cylinder drain cocks. the
drain holes thru to the bore were drilled 1/16".
I purposely left the blocks a cube shape to simplify holding and setups
until all holes and working faces were machined. If I were starting with a
Stuart casting this would be a lot more difficult to set up and hold.
Next step is to machine the outer shape to the Stuart semi round shape at
one side tapering each side to the port face.
Hope this gives an idea of what I did and why.
Best regards, Jeff Dayman
>From: Allen Messer <al_messer@xxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [modeleng] Re: Photobucket - Jeff Dayman wanted you to check out
>this album
>Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 14:12:34 -0800 (PST)
>
>Jeff, Thanks for sharing the photos of building the
>traction engine's cylinders with us. Looks to me as
>if you have done an outstanding job on it!
>
>Al
>--- jeffdayman@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>
> > I created this album on Photobucket and wanted to
> > share it with you.
> > Check it out here!
> >
>http://s169.photobucket.com/albums/u214/roller-guy/roller-cyl-mach/?albumview=slideshow
> > To upload, link, publish, and share image and video
> > files, use Photobucket!
> >
> > ____________________________________________
> > Photobucket.com - http://photobucket.com
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> > the world.
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