[modeleng] Re: Needle roller bearings

 
Ron,

To be honest, I can't remember for the first loco - too long ago. For the
newer one, the bearings are not sealed and the ends of the rollers are
'open', and the oil hole goes just to end of the bearing, and the oil seeps
in from the side (end?). 

David


Ron Head wrote: Hi David I get the idea. I take it your bearings have oil
holes in the casing - did you buy them like that, or did you have to do as
Harry did, and put them in yourself? Regards Ron ----- Original Message
-----From: "David Archibald" <deeja9@xxxxxxxxxxxx>[1] To:
<modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>[2] Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 7:37 AM Subject:
[modeleng] Re: Needle roller bearings Ron, I drilled a very small hole up
thru the axle box to a larger cavity (reservoir?) about 3/16" dia and 3/16"
deep and put a plug of dense felt about 3/8" dia above that. Lubrication is
by squirting in heavy lube oil ontothe felt &cavity on top of the axle box,
and the oil just oozes very slowly down thru the felt into the fine hole
intothe bearing. It is filteredfrom dirt by the felt, and works just fine,
and any excess just formsa small meniscus where the axle comes out of the
axle box, effectively sealing that end too. A squirt or 2 of oil every
coupleof months is all thatis required. David Ron Head wrote: Hi Harry, and
David This of course begs the question- how arethey supposed to be
lubricated? - are the sealed type deemed to be sealed for life? Regards Ron
----- Original Message ----- From: "Harry Wade" <hww@xxxxxxxx>[3][1] To:
<modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>[4][2] Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 2:34 AM
Subject: [modeleng] Re: Needle roller bearings I did exactly this on my 2X
Tich. I wanted to use the hardened inner race so I reworked thejournal so as
to bring an axle stub end of decent diameter through to the wheel faces. In
order to accomodate the bearings and sleeves, yet keep thingsnear to the
original journal envelope a few compromises had to be made and a balance
struck. This wasn't as easy as it might spound. Now, hearing Baggo's very
interesting experience (and data), I'll think seriously about going IR-less
on the next job. I learned from experience that when using drawn cup needle
roller bearings (DCNRB) it's important to adhere as closely as possible to
the manufacturer's press fit recommendation. I also am a proponent of dust
seals, especially on the inboard sides, but between manufactured neoprene
seals and O-rings a decent seal is relatively easy to arrange. I also like
central oiling and an oil hole in the cup is a necessityfor this, however
dispite what the catalogues say, DCNRBs with factory oil holes are becoming
scarse to non-existant. I used one of the single most widely used sizes of
bearing from Torrington for my Tich, and OH (oil hole) type were listed
everywhere, BUT they were't actually available, anywhere, even at he Mfg.
They would gladly manufacture my OH bearings for the paltry sum of $250
each.I could have them at the regular (and very reasonable) price IF there
was a run plannned, but there was no demand, so norun was planned. So much
for the "Can-do" spirit in the USA. I ended up putting oil holes in my
shellsusing a diamond burr in a hand grinder and flushing fastidiously with
pressurized solvent afterward. So far so good. After seeing the great
difference in rolling resistance between stock with needle or roller
bearingsand those with plain bearings in operations at our club, I decided
toalways install rolling bearings of some kind on everythingpossible.
Regards, Harry -----Original Message----- From: David Archibald
<deeja9@xxxxxxxxxxxx>[5][3] I fitted them to my 5"g loco. I used plainsteel
axles and hardened sleeves, but I recessed the axles where the sleeves go so
the outside diameter of the sleeve is exactly the same as the axle. MODEL
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