[modeleng] Re: Motor requirements

Tony Wells wrote:
>Thanks Jesse, but here I was, thinking that £2 per lantern battery wasn't a 
>bad deal though. Compared to the prices of our motorcycle batteries, they 
>still might not be however .... ;-) Of course, FORD car batteries are very 
>cheap, it must be said! :-D
>
>Tony.
>
>
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Jesse Livingston" <fernj1@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 9:57 PM
>Subject: [modeleng] Re: Motor requirements
>
>
>  
>
>>Tony,
>>
>>The motor inside a cordless drill et al, is a tiny thing and not meant for
>>continuous running.  There is a double set of planetary gears in behind 
>>the
>>drill chuck to up the torque so I think you need to find a better motor.
>>Jan-Eric Nystrom has pretty good luck using the motor from a large truck
>>windshield wiper so you might want to go that way.  A motorcycle battery
>>would be the way I would go as it is rechargeable.  BTW: They must like
>>those 6 volt lantern batteries a lot over there as they cost only $2.50
>>(1.25 pounds sterling) over here in the states.
>>
>>Oh, pay no attention to those two blokes you have been getting
>>mis-information from.  At least one of them is a Ford fanatic and not to 
>>be
>>trusted under any circumstances.
>>
>>Jesse in too sunny and way too dry West Tennessee
>>
>>MODEL ENGINEERING DISCUSSION LIST.
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>>    
>>
>
>
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Hi Gents
Just read all the previuos emails re a motor for wooden engine. The 
dielemmas are the same for me. I am part way thru building an electric 
traction engine. Built the rear wheels from scratch. Don't look bad for 
a first try....circular to 1mm on diameter. Built them 320mm diameter 
cos that looked ok. Makes the whole engine about 700mm long. Managed to 
aquire a metre of 6" ali tube for the boiler tube. Am putting the motor 
in there and then driving the crank with it. SinclairC5 motor or if not 
powerful enough nick a motor off someones wheelchair. Batteries are 
going in the firebox....using rechargable drycel sealed batteries. 
Should be enough to move it for some time but putting more in the 
trailer with a lead to the engine and a cut out to both drive the motor 
and recharge batteries on board. Drive from motor to crank has to go 
thru 90 degrees so butchering two cheaphand drill for the bevel gears. 
All gears after the crang will be as per conventional traction engine 
and will be gear wheels from Myfor lathes cos cheap. Also building a 
gear cutter to cut a 7" gear whee for the final drive on the back wheel.

I am not the best machinist in the world and never measure properly. If 
it fits all well and good but if it doesn't fit either do it again or 
adapt the cock-up.


Julian in Leicester



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