[modeleng] Re: Fw: Back on Track was HSE

The bezels and glass is fitted after the rest of the cab is completely 
painted and reattached to the chasis. It must be this way, otherwise you can 
crack your glass when bolting the cab on. The stress from the flexing plates 
in often enough to crack them. Also, if the cab is not completely painted, 
corosion becomes your enemy, and cracks your glass.

Glass is the best. You will have to replace it after a few years if you use 
perspex or polycarbonate. Most glass cutting companies can cut glass 
circles. The trick to getting them to fit is to leave enough overlap on the 
galss, so that when it is 1/6" smaller in diameter than your desired size, 
it still cannot expose an edge. also you need to hand them one of the bezels 
so that they can grind it back to fit. It is pretty standard practice. Also, 
the critical part that stops your glass from cracking is the depth of the 
recess in the bezel. It needs to be a few thou' deeper than the glass 
thickness. This alows for the iregularities in the paint to hold them in 
place. The paint is relatively soft and acts as a cushion, and therefore 
won't crack it. If they are pulled up onto bare metal on both sides they 
crack (either imeadiately, or a little while later....). I have glass in 
mine (approx 4" dia) and I have seen plenty of those that have 
perspex/polycarb. The perspex/polycarb ones very quickly became scratched 
and opaque (and are replaced every couple of years to keep tham looking 
good), where as my glass ones are still perfect after 20 years.

Cheers,

Phill.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Beaman" <davebeaman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2007 5:06 AM
Subject: [modeleng] Fw: Back on Track was HSE


> Forgot to add, try and fin some second hand small camera lens filters,
> otherwise, perspex or polycarb. Be careful using the later when you come 
> to
> paint. Do not put any glue tape on plastic or it's drivatives, it goes
> opaque. I just ruined a 5" pannier windows like that, the glue in the tape
> attacks the finish.
>
> Dave
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Dave Beaman" <davebeaman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Friday, June 22, 2007 10:01 PM
> Subject: Re: [modeleng] Back on Track was HSE
>
>
>> EKP sell dome headed slotless screws.
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "Harry Wade" <hww@xxxxxxxx>
>> To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> Sent: Friday, June 22, 2007 3:06 PM
>> Subject: [modeleng] Back on Track was HSE
>>
>>
>> I have another question for those in the UK about spectacle plate 
>> windows,
>> in this case the round variety.  What were spectacle plate windows
>> typically often retained by?  Both round and flat head rivets of course
>> come quickly to mind but I have also seen models which used flat head
>> slotted screws and there was no way to know if this was typical of
>> prototypical practice or just an easy way to get the windows in and be
>> done
>> with it.  My windows will be 2-piece rims (bezels?) and I'll want the
>> glass
>> to be replaceable.  That being the case, if round or flat head rivets are
>> the norm I'll thread the rivets for nuts rather than head them over.
>>
>>
>> Regards,
>> Harry Wade
>> Nashville  Tennessee
>>
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>
>
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