The darn exposure problem of Canon ESO bodies is my bane. I hate it as it is always a crap shoot if A mode. And then if I switch to a Canon lens, I forget to reset the +/- back to neutral and I blow these shots. The only dependable exposure is to use manual mode, set the f-stop to f-2, then meter wide open. Then stop the lens down as many stops as you need for your shot, say 3 full stops, then adjust the shutter exposure to be slower by 3 stops and shoot. Totally ignore what the meter is telling you when you shoot. Slow, to use, but accurate exposures guaranteed. This last trip I have been experimenting with this system. Always shoot the Leica glass in M mode and shoot the EOS glass in A mode. That way I never set the +/- so I never forget to reset it.
But, still, it is a pain. Yet I cannot afford an alternative and since I rarely shoot action shots with my Leica glass, it is functional for me and I get pretty good shots that way. I was really hoping for a Leica solution, but reading the posts since my return, I guess I am not going to be satisfied. Seriously thinking of dumping everything except my 100 APO and going Nikon.
Aram -------------------------------------------------- From: "Douglas Sharp" <douglas.sharp@xxxxxx> Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 6:36 AM To: <leicareflex@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: [LRflex] Re: Camera Choice Advice Sought
Kevin, if you are thinking about adapters, the Canon is the best bet, I currently use the following with full infinity focus (some with AF confirmation). A Canon body offers a lot more scope for using excellent glass from a number of prominent brands Leica-R, M42 (Pentax Screw), Contax/Yashica, Tamron Adaptall, T2 and Rollei QBM. Then Canon EF to EOS with a correction lens for infinity focus, Topcon (short focusing range), M39 (great for using Leica and other rangefinder lenses for macro work). Also available are adapters for Nikon, Minolta,Pentax K, Hasselblad, Mamiya 645, Pentax 645 and probably quite a few more.Cheers Douglas Kevin Willey wrote:Doug, David and other Leica SLR affectionados, Thank you for your responses. All good advice, yet I feel like I"m looking back (SL, SL2, R6.2, R7, R9) and perhaps I should be embrace the future with a Canon, Nikon, Sony A900, et al. with a R-lens adapter. Will mull this over as I continue to read up on the literature and your expert opinions. Again, thanks for the contributions from this genuinely wonderful forum. Kevin On Jun 17, 2009, at 3:13 PM, frncscoco@xxxxxxx wrote:-----Original Message----- From: Douglas Sharp <douglas.sharp@xxxxxx> To: leicareflex@xxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Wed, Jun 17, 2009 10:36 am Subject: [LRflex] Re: Camera Choice Advice Sought If you don't want all the bells and whistles of the R4, R5 and R7,by all means look for an R6 - though you'll still need cells for the metering function, only the shutter is mechanical. The R5 has the advantage of being powered by the winder/motor batteries when it's attached, the R7 has the advantage of a separate mirror release and also has a good fill-in flash option, but it's not powered by the winder/motordrive, so when the meter batteries go dead on you, it's dead. Both are wonderfully compact, the R7 is a tiny bit higher (which means the accessory handgip is different to clear the shutter speed dial) they are quite light and very ergonomic (a Canon 20D looks enormous next to an R7) - though excellent ergonomics is a feature of all the R series cameras from the R4 on. The whole series also offers excellent handling with a motor/winder and handgrip attached if you find the need for motor drive. Unless you find one that is really in perfect working order, keep away from R3 and R3Mot Electronic cameras, repairmen also tend to shy away from them. In fact, it's probably easier to get an SL or SL2 repaired or properly serviced than any of the R-series so, if you are looking for something purely mechanical, consider an SL2 or an SL - both are very pure and simple and built like the proverbial tanks - and have the meter calibrated for silver cells when (if) you get the camera CLA-ed (use a Wein Cell if you don't). One more thing, the SL2 has a hot shoe, the SL hasn't. Getting back to motordrives - the SLMot and SL2Mot motors are very hard to come by, almost impossible to service or repair (even the best repairers run screaming from the workshop) and the battery holders tend to crack or break easily and there's no adhesive I've found that you can use to mend them - not to mention total disaster if you had some leaky cells in them (like I did). The overall weight with a motor also leaves quite a bit to be desired - 10 AA batteries are NOT light. On the second hand market, both the R6 and R6.2 tend to be overpriced. A decent R5 or R7 would probably cost between a third and a half less. A "Made in Portugal R5 is even cheaper here in Germany (Portugal = red dot on the left when seen from the front, Germany = red dot on the right), even though the cameras are otherwise identical and equally reliable. Cheers Douglas Gary Pinkerton wrote:I would personally not pay the extra premium for a R6.2, the R6 isone > half the cost !I've not had an R6.2, but have had 3 R6 bodies at one time or another> and did not find them to be any more reliable than the electronic > bodies. Yes you can shoot without batteries, but batteries are cheap > and last a long time [normally]. The best R body I've ever had was a > used R4 which was still going strong after 7 years when I traded it. I > would probably go for a R7 if you want a smaller body to accompany > your R8. Or, better still, a good used SL :)> > Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2009 23:08:06 -0700 > From: speleo_karst@xxxxxxxxx > Subject: [LRflex] Re: Camera Choice Advice Sought > To: leicareflex@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ---- > From: Kevin Willey <kevinwilley@xxxxxx> > To: leicareflex@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2009 3:15:09 AM > Subject: [LRflex] Camera Choice Advice Sought > > > Also, love the process of shooting MF with Hassi but I want atravel > camera and long zoom options and a backup body. Rather than go the > M8.2 as I originally intended and then have to invest in a M lens > line, I am considering a second R8 or R9 body. Yet the R6.2 tempts me > because of reputation, size, all mechanical so I can keep it a long > time w/o worrying about electronic parts to repair R820or R9. Do I lose > noticeable image quality with a less capable metering, programming > system in R6.2 versus R8/9? There is currently a new 6.2 on eBay for > $1,700.> > ________________________ > > As Doug mentioned, depending on your preferences, subjects and >situations, there is no reason for a manual exposure camera to produceworse images than an R8 or R9. > > The cameras of the R4-R7 series will be lighter than what you now >have (I have an R4, which has been very reliable, despite its > reputation. The only reason I might upgrade it is to get 1/2000).> The problem remains that, for a travel camera, the R lenses >themselves are bloody heavy!> So when walking/backpacking long distances, I'll usually take my M6> (the body itself isn't that light, but the lenses are, as well as > being tiny) or my Rolleiflex SLR (also has a lineup of very small, > light & good lenses).> > For 1700$ you can get lots of camera, including a basic M kit! > In any case, cameras like the R4 are so cheap now, that if an >electronic component does fail, you just get another one (horrible > consumerism, yes...)> > > > ------ > Unsubscribe or change to/from Digest Mode at: > http://www.lrflex.furnfeather.net/ > Archives are at: > http://www.freelists.org/archives/leicareflex/ ------ Unsubscribe or change to/from Digest Mode at: http://www.lrflex.furnfeather.net/ Archives are at: //www.freelists.org/archives/leicareflex/------ Unsubscribe or change to/from Digest Mode at: http://www.lrflex.furnfeather.net/ Archives are at: //www.freelists.org/archives/leicareflex/
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