Re: New Image

  • From: Mark <lurchl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: leica@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 16:18:40 -0800

Some numbers:
EOS 5D pixel count: 13.3MP
EOS 5D effective pixels: 12.7MP
EOS 5D sensor size: 35.8 x 23.9mm
EOS 5D pixel size: 8.2um (square)
EOS 5D post-processing firmware: DIGIC II

EOS 40D pixel count: 10.5MP
EOS 40D effective pixels: 10.1MP
EOS 40D sensor size: 22.2 x 14.8mm
EOS 40D pixel size: 5.7um (square)
EOS 40D post-processing firmware: DIGIC III

In formal and informal reviews, DIGIC III has shown noise at least one ISO-stop better than DIGIC II. That is, a DIGIC III camera gives you the same noise at twice ISO1 as a DIGIC II camera does at ISO1. That's a significant advantage. Some of that may be due to the 40D's improved pixel microlens design over older cameras like the 5D.

The 40D offers 14-bits for each R, G and B color channel, versus the 5D's 12 bits. That gives finer color gradation in RAW files, which give you nice adjustment options in Photoshop CS-3's 16-bit commands.

Going by area, an APS-sized chunk of the 5D's sensor gives you 38.4 % of the total. That comes out to 4.877 effective megapixels, versus 10.1effective MP using all of the 40D's APS-sized sensor.

I used the first EOS 1D several years ago. It had a 4.1MP sensor. The resolution difference between it and even a 10D's 6MP made me start using the 10D all the time instead. 4-ish MP just wasn't enough.

The difference between Minox frames and 35mm frames is pretty extreme. I don't think that's a very good comparison. And 1/2 frame 35mm cameras gave you half the frame of the same piece of film, with that film's inherent grain and resolution limitations. So that's not quite a valid comparison either when the smaller sensor has more resolution.

The biggest difference is in DIGIC III's noise reduction versus DIGIC II. It's like getting a stop of push-processing with no increase in grain.

So it comes down to horses for courses. If you shoot wildlife and compose tightly in the finder, the 40D makes sense. If you use wides a lot, crop your shots, and/or shoot in good light, the 5D makes sense.

Using an APS-sensored camera on a regular basis accustoms you to 'seeing' with one. So you can still have all the habitat around the animal to choose from. Cropping an APS-sized frame may make picture resolution suffer, if you don't have enough pixels to start with and want a 16 X 20 or larger print. An EOS 1Ds Mark III's 21.1 MP may be the best $olution.

Mark Bohrer
Wildlife Photography on the Urban Edge
www.mountain-and-desert.com


At 12:55 PM 1/14/2008, you wrote:
At 11:32 AM 1/14/2008 -0800, David Young wrote:

1) The sensor is full frame and for what I do (90% wildlife work) that is a major disadvantage. The effective boost in focal length (crop factor) saves my buying much longer lenses.


This is a false thought. It's like saying that I'll use an APS film camera over a 35mm film camera because my long lenses appear longer on the smaller film format. Or my 270mm LF lens gives me a longer look when I use my 645 or 67 roll film back on my 4x5. Going even further, why not use Minox film in a 35mm camera so that one's long lenses appear to be astronomically long and 'really' use the lens sweet spot - dead center.

Several 35mm camera makers made 1/2 frame cameras. When using the camera system's long lenses on those cameras, they got an apparent focal length boost. But not really. They were only using half of the film. You get exactly the same image when using a full frame 35mm camera PLUS more around the subject so that there was more to work from in the darkroom. The only economy was saving money on film. 72 frames rather than 36. This is not a problem with digital.

The middle of a 5D sensor is as good or better than the whole of smaller sensors.

So by using an APS sensor, you are cropping in the camera rather than cropping on your computer screen.

I personally like having more stuff around the image on film (or digifile) so that when I print or present the image, I have a lot to work with. I can either tightly crop the image (APS it) or I can place it properly in the frame and leave in meaningful ancillary stuff that makes for a great composition. It's always better to have more stuff to choose from, than less. Especially since it is of the same (or even higher) resolution.

Boiled down, your APS size sensor is simply the middle of a full frame sensor in size. Full frame sensors are far more difficult to make and thus go through a far more rigorous testing procedure. I personally believe (and have seen) that the APS section (center) of current full frame sensors is better than actual APS size sensors.

And... by packing smaller pixels into a space (roughly half the full frame space) creates pixels with less dynamic range capability and that are more noise prone. The small pixel problem. A FF 5D sensor has larger pixels than 20/30/40D cameras and therefore exhibits exemplary low light and dynamic range raw performance.

I personally don't think that you should continue to think about the sensor size in a 'bass ackward' way. And since the GG screens in Canon DSLRs are removable, you can engrave the APS size right on the screen so that you'll never know that you are shooting with a larger sensor. Then when you sit down at your computer, there's all of that cool stuff around the subject that you can introduce in order to make stunning compositions. I personally like to see some of the environment where the animal is living/feeding/whatevering...

Plus... when you use the camera in a normal mode (landscape, trips, etc.) rather than as a wildlife camera, it's performance will definitely be a cut above the smaller sensor cameras.

IMHO,

:-)

Jim

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