[ddots-l] sonar 6 and arming with input echo

Hi: When I arm a track for audio recording and turn input echo onI can hear the sound or vocal when playing or singing, as should be the case. however, when I move from that track to another track I hear no sound. Then, when coming back to that track, I have to again turn input echo on to hear sound again. Sonar has never done this before. Any suggestions? John Fioravanti ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nicole Massey" <nyyki@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> 
To: <midimag@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 10:11 AM
Subject: RE: [midi-mag] question about guitar pickups and soldering



Those little caps are called Wire Nuts, and yes, they're very useful for
connections. Not as sturdy as soldering, of course, but still quite handy,
especially when it's something you might need to remove someday, like a
light fixture or a patch job on a wire.
The crimp connectors you speak of are called solderless connectors, and they 
come in a wide variety of types. There are little tubes that you crimp on
each end to connect a wire, ring connectors designed to be held to something 
like a screw, "Spade and Receiver" connections that allow one end to slide
into another for fast disconnection or switching of connections, and a
variant on the ring connector called a U connector that is like the ring
connector but may be removed without completely removing the screw, as they slide in under the screw and have an open end. I've used these a lot in the 
past, and they're very handy for a lot of applications. I've even seen a
couple of them used inside guitars, and U and Ring connectors are very
useful when using terminal blocks. I used them extensively about ten years
ago when wiring a pedal board for a friend. He wanted to use a fifty foot
printer cable to connect "The Slab" to "The Cube." (His pedalboard and his
rack) I spent a long time soldering wires to Centronics and DB-25
connectors, routed the wires to terminal blocks, (very useful when your wire 
gauge differs) and then used a cheap continuity tester to double check the
work. (Light bulb attached to a battery with two leads connected to
alligator clips. These days I'd use a buzzer instead) The board worked
beautifully. We also used ring connectors to connect the leads to the
subsidiary portion of the slab, the section with the volume and wah pedals 
and other footswitches to control rack fx.

-----Original Message-----
From: Indigo [mailto:33indigo@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 5:38 AM
To: midimag@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [midi-mag] question about guitar pickups and soldering
I got most of my soldering experience back in the olden days when a chassis was a thick metal box and components were huge compared to today's, but you still see a few switches and controls mounted off the circuit board, not the 
usual mini-controls that have rows of tiny wire-sized terminals that fit
into holes and are soldered to silver traces on the opposite side of the
board.
Those tiny traces are too close together and difficult for me to feel, so I 
leave printed circuit board repairs to shops.
I still solder switches and larger wires in old table lamps, vintage music
gear and such.
Note here that the screw on twists that look like toothpaste tube caps work very well for A C power connections, much easier than soldered connections. There are other kinds of crimped connectors to join two wires together, with 
a special pair of pliers to crimp the connector.
You could start out with a Weller or other brand soldering gun, $15 to $25
USD, or one of the newer battery guns Phil mentioned, called cold soldering 
guns because they cool almost instantly.
There must be something around your house that could be fixed with solder,
like a wire broken off a switch.
I'd start with something like that.
Every time I think a job is so delicate and difficult that it has to require 
sight, I hear of a blind person doing it, so there might be a blind teck
somewhere soldering printed circuit boards, but not me.
I recently heard of a new conductive glue for printed circuit board repairs, 
said to be as good as solder.
By the way, if you really get into soldering, like making stained glass
windows like my sighted wife does, or sculptures from sheet copper or brass, 
remember that solder containing lead gives off dangerous fumes, so choose
lead-free solder and work in a ventilated place.
Many instrument repair jobs don't require solder these days.
I have an old trumpet that has the solder places that attached the stem pipe 
to the trumpet body broken loose, and heating up the trumpet body with a
large soldering iron or propane torch risks causing other nearby solder
joints to melt, so I'll use the epoxy glue called JB Weld, which isn't
conductive so not for electrical work, but at least as strong as solder for 
holding metal parts together.
indigo

----- Original Message -----
From: "Blake Hardin" <blakehardin5487@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <midimag@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2008 4:43 PM
Subject: Re: [midi-mag] question about guitar pickups and soldering



Thanks for all of this guys. Do any of you know about how much these
tools will run? And how would i practis doing this without messing
expensive stuff up? lol

On 9/27/08, Nicole Massey <nyyki@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

However, since the first method uses the metal of the wire or component
to
melt the solder, it has the highest possibility for making a good solder
joint. And though the "squeak test" is useful in some situations, there
are
many where you don't have the same option, like panel mounting components 


on
a PC board, so the first method is the most consistent and gets the best
results across the board. It's also considered to be the best technique
for
soldering.

-----Original Message-----
From: Indigo [mailto:33indigo@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2008 2:34 AM
To: midimag@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [midi-mag] question about guitar pickups and soldering

Whether you place the gun on the terminal and feed solder into the joint
as
it melts, or pre-coat the terminal and wire, as Phil suggests, or place a 
tiny drop of solder onto the gun tip beforehand, the definitive test of
whether you are getting enough heat into the job to fuse the wire and
terminal is that little squeaking sound as you wiggle the wire at the
very
moment when the joint is solidifying.
It takes experience, but once you learn to get just enough heat into the
joint so you can hear and feel that tiny squeaking you'll always get
perfect
joints.
Without that sound as you wiggle the wire in its terminal hole, you may
get
a cold joint that is coated outside with solder, but inside has a
microscopic gap that seperates the wire from the terminal.
In that tiny space you get imperfect conduction, and worse yet, a random
capacitence effect between the two metal surfaces that can cause no end
of
static noise problems.
the result is exactly like introducing an additional resister and
condenser
into the circuit that follows the cold joint.
Indigo

----- Original Message -----
From: "Nicole Massey" <nyyki@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <midimag@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2008 11:13 AM
Subject: RE: [midi-mag] question about guitar pickups and soldering



The second method is problematic. The goal is to have the heat from the
object being soldered melt the solder, not the iron or gun, so that you
have
a good clean solder joint. The method of using the iron or gun to melt
the
solder directly can create what is known as a "cold solder" joint, and
it
won't get proper conduction or stability.

Whenever possible, I use solderless connectors and terminal blocks for
electronics work, but of course there's not enough room for this in a
guitar
body unless it's a hollow body guitar, and working with this can be
problematic in such a tight environment

I have yet to try soldering while blind. I have a project coming up
which
will require some soldering, though, so I may get the chance soon. (I
need



a
switch box in the studio to switch between the outputs of the ADAT and
the
outputs of the Delta 44 and 4-track reel to reel) Should be a fairly
simple
job, but time consuming.

-----Original Message-----
From: Indigo [mailto:33indigo@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2008 9:37 AM
To: midimag@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [midi-mag] question about guitar pickups and soldering

I think we had a discussion on soldering a while back.
I've been doing it most of my life without sight, burning my fingers a
little occasionally, not the end of the world!
Basically, you use a soldering gun, not a soldering iron made for
plumbing
use.
You are supposed to heat the terminal, not the solder.
Use radio solder, not plumbing solder.
Insert the wire into the hole in the terminal, wrap the wire around the
terminal and loop it around the wire where it went in, so you don't need 
to
hold the wire to keep it in the terminal.
Place the tip of the soldering gun against the terminal and pull the
trigger
on the soldering gun.
Meanwhile touch the end of the solder to the terminal until you feel it
melting and shove a little of it against the terminal.
After a second remove soldering gun and solder.
At this point you can quickly grab the wire and wiggle the wire that's
connected to the terminal before it cools, and if you hear a little
squeaky
sound, there was enough heat and it's going to be a good joint.
When it cools the  wire will stop wiggling in the hole of the terminal
and
solidify into a strong connection.
If it's loose in the terminal after it cools, clean off old solder and
try
again.
Warning: Don't overheat the terminall until it begins to melt the
plastic
body of the pickup, or whatever device, and the terminal itself becomes 
loose.
That's a very undesired result.
Also, don't use so much heat that the insulation on the wire melts.

Another technique that works, despite the advice of purists who only
follow
the above method, is to have the wire in the hole of the terminal, as
above,
then hold the soldering gun pointing down and pull the trigger while
holding
the solder to the very tip of the soldering gun.
When you feel the solder melting, push a little onto the tip of the
soldering gun and immediately let go of the trigger.
You'll have a little drop of solder attached to the tip of the soldering 
gun.
You can then place the tip of the soldering gun against the terminal and 
turn on the heat, and that little drop of solder will flow nicely onto
the
terminal and wire, and you'll get a very neat joint, with no surplus
solder
on the terminal.

Lately I've been reading about new cold soldering glues that are
conductive
and said to be as good as soldering.
Ask about them at a shop like Radio Shack, Tandy, Harleys.

Hope this helps, and don't blame me for burned fingers, which aren't
terminal injuries after all.
You just won't be able to read Braille for a while. Smile.
Indigo


----- Original Message -----
From: "Blake Hardin" <blakehardin5487@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <midimag@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2008 2:49 PM
Subject: Re: [midi-mag] question about guitar pickups and soldering



hahah no i do not have any sight. Thats what im trying to get at if
there anyway for me to do so lol.

On 9/25/08, Chris Smart <chris_s@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

At 01:01 AM 9/25/2008, you wrote:

hi all, ok i have no problem soldering if thats what i have to do but


Blake, why don't you get a book on basic electronics or better yet,
a book on guitar repair? Not to mention there are tons of guides
online on topics like basic guitar wiring.

Do you have some sight? If not, how are you soldering without
burning yourself?

Chris


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