[AZ-Observing] Re: Dressing well for the COLD on the cheap

There has been a lot said here about how to stay warm, which
I believe is accurate for the most part, but a few of what I think
are critical elements have not been mentioned and should be.

As a participant on this list for 7 or 8 years, there has NEVER
been a topic about which I would dare to  label myself an expert
at, the level of Tom, Brian, or Chris (see, I don't even need to give
last names) until NOW. I do qualify ,however,in this subject . I offer
a brief resume to establish some level of credibility:

4 years of coolege in a town (Hanover, NH) where the US Army operated its 
Cold Regions Research and Experimental Laboratory (CRREL). While 
there I skied and learned and practiced winter mountaineering. There
were college credit classes offered in this area because the Army 
ROTC unit was specifically training officers for it's Mountain and Winter
Warfare Division.

I lived for an additional 4 years in a town (Crested Butte,CO) where 
temperatures at night in January routinely reached the minus 40's and 
sometimes lower. During my years there, and since, I have needed to
know how to dress warmly for skiing (still a passion) and winter climbing
(an activity now given up entirely once I moved here and regained some
sanity).

There is an occupational model from these experiences which has 
perfect application to dressing for cold weather observing which I  will
address here. Ski lift operators routinely  stand out in 0 to -10 degree
weather doing nothing more than standing in one place for 6 hours 
checking to see if people have valid passes.

I will start with some basics first. The absolute key to staying warm 
is the world's best insulator and it's very, very cheap---AIR. There
is nothing inherently warm about goose down except that it creates
a volume space with tons of air. The key to trapping lots of air is 
layering (many, many layers). You don't need expensive stuff to do this. 
Another critical rule is that nothing should fit tightly (except the first layer
against your skin). Everything else should be very loose in order to (you
guessed it) trap air. That means the top or outer layer needs to be
a full size too large for you in order to get all the other layers under
it and not have it compressed.

The first layer of some kind of polypropylene underwear (like Capilene)
as mentioned before on the list is very important to wick away any
perspiration. I buy Capilene at REI on sale--my only luxury item.
On top of that , start layering loosely in loose fitting garments. I will
give an example here which will sound crazy but I'm perfectly serious---
Capilene (close fitting) and the following (all loose fitting)--- a t-shirt,
a turtleneck, a fleece vest, a heavy sweatshirt, a fleece jacket, and on 
top (in moderately cold weather a long wind proof shell) and  in really cold 
weather a long insulated jacket with a wind proof outer layer. (Long, in 
order to cover the lower back and kidneys.) Fleece items are dirt 
cheap at Old Navy--if you're not into being a fashion icon, (fleece is
fleece) but the heavier, the better (traps more air).

On the bottom basically the same. I wear two layers of tight stuff (Capilene
and then cycling tights) followed by sweat pants or fleece pants (cheap at
REI) and wind proof shell pants. For you die-hard all-nighters, the suggestion
made for insulated ski bibs is a great one (cheap at Popular or Big Five 
Sports).

Now for the REALLY critical info---head and feet. Head is easiest--a good 
fleece or wool  ski or Navy watch style hat is best. Put it on early and keep 
it 
on. Heat is lost more readily from the head than any other part of the body.

Now for the ski lift operators critical warm feet secret. These are going to be 
hard to find in AZ but are CHEAP. I will do a net search and share the info 
later
today. The secret is ---drumroll, please--ta,dah----generic brand snowmobile 
boots. Think about it--these are used by sedentary couch potatos who like 
to SIT on high powered vehicles in sub-freezing weather going at speeds of
over 40 mph (think windchill factor). The boots are a rubber shoe topped with
a zip-up nylon top section (windproof) about 6 inches high. Their secet, 
however,
is a thick (1/2-3/4")felt boot that is worn inside. Get them big---the felt 
should not be
tight on your foot. An added benefit is that they are incredibly 
comfortable---like
slippers. Till we all get some of these (I don't own any now but wore them all 
winter
when I lived in Crested Butte), a really good thing to keep feet warm are the 
chemical
foot warmers someone already mentioned (cheap) from Popular, REI, or Big Five 
Sports.
My tip is to wear something loose fitting on your feet so that the chemical 
HAND warmer
can be put in your shoes or boots (better) becuse it is larger and puts out 
more heat.

For the hands, still layer. A thin pair of nylon, wool or high-tech fabric 
gloves covered
by ski gloves. Strangely, for observing, the smaller chemical FOOT warmers are 
probably
best in order to allow the manual dexterity necessary in handling and changing 
eyepieces. 

Well that's it. My apologies for the length of this. I'm planning to go to 
Flatiron tonight (sans
snowmobile boots). One further thought, do not let anyone talk you into buying 
some super
expensive high-tech outer layer like Gore-tex (which I do own lots of for 
skiing) for wearing
when you are observing or just standing around. It's value is in allowing 
moisture from
exercise-induced perspiration to evaporate and not get trapped in the shell 
which would
otherwise lead to chilling from the moisture. If money is no object or you are 
a hiker or 
backpacker, it's great stuff, however.

See you out in the cold.

Tony Muller 


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