[amayausers] Re: sewing on pique shirts

Roland
I always sew pique's at a material thickness of at least 7 and I use 2 layers of cut-away backing, usually 1 pc. of nylon mesh and 1 pc. of 2 ounce regular plus Always use a topping on piques. You might also pay attention to your presser foot height, that may need adjusting as you sew different weights. One way of telling if your material thickness and bobbin tension are good is to look at the backside of your embroidery. A machine tech taught me to do this and it's really been beneficial to me to watch this, especially if I'm getting lots of thread breaks.
It's been my experience that this fabric is the most difficult to work with in terms of getting a my lettering to look good. It really depends on the shirt quality. Devon and Jones and Cross Creek are a few I like to use and baby pique in any brand is also nice.
Just my 2 pennys and maybe it will be useful for you.
Wendy Solomonson
Itchin' To Stitch
Arlington, MN
(507)964-2224

----- Original Message ----- From: "Roland R. Irish III" <signman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 11:06 AM
Subject: [amayausers] Re: sewing on pique shirts


just wondering if I'm really doing something wrong, or if this is typical
with the rest of you.
Sewing out Arial font, .35 height-and a single 'line' under the lettering on
Port Authority and Gildan pique knit polos-I think about a 6 oz. weight,
nothing heavy.
With single cutaway backing, density at 4 (then tried 5) we had lots of
thread breaks.
Went to double layer of 2 oz cutaway, AND a layer of solvy, and also went in
and changed lettering from 4 to 4.5. Sewing out at density 5 and so far so
good!
Did have to tweak the needle a hair more to the angle and haven't had a
thread break on 9 shirts so far.
So is this typical for pique knits?
Roland






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