[amayausers] Re: Thread Breaks

Aaron,

Ughhh, Rest?--Well of course I do, I think. I am retired you know.....I 
think....sometimes I get confused about this.....

Rod Springer

Embroidery Cottage
Rod & Sharon Springer
Melco Amaya Tech & Trainer
Design Shop Pro+ Digitizing

Boise, ID  83713
208-938-3038


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Linen Barn" <linen@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2006 1:14 PM
Subject: [amayausers] Re: Thread Breaks


> Rod,
>
> I was wondering if you ever rest :)
>
> Aaron Sargent
> The Linen Barn
> linen@xxxxxxxxxxx
> 541-770-2957
> Medford, OR
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Rod or Sharon" <springer37@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2006 11:50 AM
> Subject: [amayausers] Re: Thread Breaks
>
>
>> To all,
>> Just as a clarification, we are talking about oiling two entirely
>> different
>> items here. Roland is referring to oiling "Needle bars" and also 
>> referring
>> to oiling the reciprocator shaft.
>>
>> Needle bar lubrication only takes a couple of drops of oil at the top pad
>> and a couple drops of oil on the bottom pad per bar. The reciprocator
>> specification is to add 25 drops of oil at the proper time and extra oil
>> as
>> needed if the machine is in constant use.
>>
>> Rod springer
>>
>> Embroidery Cottage
>> Rod & Sharon Springer
>> Melco Amaya Tech & Trainer
>> Design Shop Pro+ Digitizing
>>
>> Boise, ID  83713
>> 208-938-3038
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "Roland R. Irish III" <signman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2006 12:33 PM
>> Subject: [amayausers] Re: Thread Breaks
>>
>>
>>> When you see oil soaked 'fuzzies' on your hat brim, or falling into
>>> the sewout area in a hoop, then you know it is way past time to clean
>>> up above the needles...our problem hasn't been with excess oil as Rob
>>> gets-we were still only oiling the 'ten' drops recommended until we
>>> had a needle shaft get 'stuck' once. Service tech told us to add
>>> extra oil up in the V slot, and also go take off the magnetic cover
>>> and put 2 drops of oil on each shaft directly when it started to get
>>> noisy. Problem was caused by running the same colors all the time on
>>> the same needles-right next to each other. We had black, white, red,
>>> gold, blue as the first 5 needles and were doing a ton of fire dept
>>> or school mascots-all using the same colors. This was causing the
>>> shafts to over heat, suck up more oil, and then run out of oil long
>>> before the service timer called for more. Now with the upgrade
>>> calling for 25 drops, big difference! Also, we no longer put the most
>>> used colors next to each other-we have them separated and also move
>>> the position every time we put a new spool in. Like rotating
>>> tires...change the location of the ones that get the most use. When
>>> we do the 2 million service, we add 5-6 drops of oil in the V, then
>>> when it calls for it, the 25 drops. No more noisy shafts running!
>>> Roland
>>> On Mar 25, 2006, at 2:27 PM, Rod or Sharon wrote:
>>>
>>>> Mary,
>>>>
>>>> Sorry if it sounded like I made it sound like you had to oiled the
>>>> reciprocater directly all the time. As you wanted to know what it
>>>> was ,I
>>>> described how you could get a good look at it and see just how the
>>>> whole
>>>> system worked. Whenever I have the front covers off,  I do soak up
>>>> the pads
>>>> with oil directly during the inspection process.
>>>>
>>>> The newest spects on oiling the reciprocator is to add "25" drops
>>>> of oil in
>>>> the oiling channel when the pop-up for this procedure is required.
>>>> But once
>>>> again, if the machine is running constantly and/or the machine sits
>>>> for long
>>>> periods of time and is not used, it is only wise to add a few more
>>>> drops of
>>>> oil in the channel to keep the system wet with oil..
>>>>
>>>> At the bottom of the reciprocator shaft, there is an oil soaker pad
>>>> that
>>>> will collect any excess oil to keep it from running out the bottom and
>>>> soiling a garment. Anytime I have the covers off the front of a
>>>> machine I
>>>> always take a screwdriver and tissue paper, paper towel, etc, and
>>>> try to
>>>> soak out the oil from this pad by squeezing the paper towel against
>>>> it with
>>>> the screwdriver. If this is not done periodically and the machine
>>>> is kept
>>>> well oiled, then there is the possibility that the pad will/could
>>>> become
>>>> saturated and oil will have no where to go but down and down is
>>>> toward the
>>>> needle and what ever you are sewing on...
>>>>
>>>> Rod Springer
>>>>
>>>> Embroidery Cottage
>>>> Rod & Sharon Springer
>>>> Melco Amaya Tech & Trainer
>>>> Design Shop Pro+ Digitizing
>>>>
>>>> Boise, ID  83713
>>>> 208-938-3038
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> From: "Shuffletown Embroidery" <shuffemb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>>> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>>> Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2006 11:51 AM
>>>> Subject: [amayausers] Re: Thread Breaks
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Rod,
>>>>> I found the reference to the reciprocator lubrication in the 2 M
>>>>> maintenance. According to my manual, it is lubricated indirectly by
>>>>> putting
>>>>> 24 drops of oil in the v-channel. It sounds like you are talking
>>>>> about a
>>>>> direct lubrication of the reciprocator. Or is the indirect one all
>>>>> that is
>>>>> needed?
>>>>> Thanks for taking the time to explain this to me.
>>>>> Mary
>>>>>
>>>>> Mary Buckle
>>>>> Shuffletown Embroidery
>>>>> Charlotte, NC
>>>>> 704-398-1273
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>>> [mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Rod or Sharon
>>>>> Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 5:47 PM
>>>>> To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>>> Subject: [amayausers] Re: Thread Breaks
>>>>>
>>>>> Mary,
>>>>> Each needle bar has an attached stud that rides along the
>>>>> alignment groove
>>>>> in the black front cover plates behind the needle case. When a color
>>>>> change
>>>>> is selected by the machine, it moves the needle case to a new
>>>>> position and
>>>>> selects a new needle bar to be the "active" needle
>>>>>
>>>>> The stud on this needle bar slides into a set of jaws that is
>>>>> lined up
>>>>> with
>>>>> the groove in the plastic front covers in the center of the
>>>>> machine behind
>>>>> the needle case. These jaws are called the reciprocator. The
>>>>> reciprocator
>>>>> assembly is mounted on a hollow metal tube called the reciprocator
>>>>> shaft.
>>>>> Within the reciprocator assembly is a set of felt oil retaining
>>>>> pads and a
>>>>> small rubber boot that acts kind like an oil sump. It is critical to
>>>>> maintain proper lubrication of this system.
>>>>>
>>>>> Think about this. The needle case moves and in the process selects a
>>>>> different needle bar/needle for each color change, but each needle
>>>>> bar
>>>>> aligns up with the same and only one reciprocator jaws and shaft.
>>>>> This of
>>>>> course means that the reciprocator assembly wears 100% of the time
>>>>> the
>>>>> machine is running. Failure to maintain proper lubrication in this
>>>>> area
>>>>> leads to all sorts of problems, especially in the Z axis area with
>>>>> errors
>>>>> and timeouts, thread breaks, etc.
>>>>>
>>>>> To get a good look at the reciprocator assembly, color change to
>>>>> needle 16
>>>>> and remove the left front black plastic cover. DO NOT ALLOW THE
>>>>> NEEDLE
>>>>> CASE
>>>>> TO MOVE or COLOR CHANGE WHILE THE FRONT COVER IS OFF. The needle
>>>>> bars will
>>>>> drop out of the groove in the right cover and this is a very bad
>>>>> thing.
>>>>> Removing the front covers one at a time is a normal part of the
>>>>> internal
>>>>> lubrication and inspection process. Just be careful to not do
>>>>> anything
>>>>> that
>>>>> would start the needle case to move before the front cover is
>>>>> replaced.
>>>>>
>>>>> Rod Springer
>>>>>
>>>>> Embroidery Cottage
>>>>> Rod & Sharon Springer
>>>>> Melco Amaya Tech & Trainer
>>>>> Design Shop Pro+ Digitizing
>>>>>
>>>>> Boise, ID  83713
>>>>> 208-938-3038
>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>> From: "Shuffletown Embroidery" <shuffemb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>>>> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>>>> Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 2:45 PM
>>>>> Subject: [amayausers] Re: Thread Breaks
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> OK, What's a reciprocator? I've never seen a reference to it. Is
>>>>>> that on
>>>>>> an
>>>>>> Amaya?
>>>>>> Mary
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mary Buckle
>>>>>> Shuffletown Embroidery
>>>>>> Charlotte, NC
>>>>>> 704-398-1273
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>> From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>>>> [mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Douglas Parker
>>>>>> Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 4:19 PM
>>>>>> To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>>>> Subject: [amayausers] Re: Thread Breaks
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Hi Jeff,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Tnx for the reply. I too watch maintenance and use the timers as
>>>>>> a basic
>>>>>> guide. Daily and sometimes multiple times a day when running
>>>>>> hard, I do
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> hook lubrication. Several times a week, even before the timer comes
>>>>>> around
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> I
>>>>>> cycle to needle 16 and do the reciprocator  lubrication, and at
>>>>>> least 1
>>>>>> time
>>>>>> every two weeks I pull the needle case cover and lube the needle
>>>>>> bars
>>>>>> upper
>>>>>> and lower pads. If the machine has sat idle for several days
>>>>>> ( and in
>>>>>> slow
>>>>>> times, this can be up to a couple of weeks or even a month), I
>>>>>> run the
>>>>>> entire machine lubrication. This takes a couple of hours but I
>>>>>> find it is
>>>>>> worth it. Oil and grease are cheap as are needles. Replacing
>>>>>> major parts
>>>>>> are
>>>>>> expensive even with the maintenance agreements.
>>>>>> My machine is an older one (SN: 320821) and has all its original
>>>>>> parts
>>>>>> except for the rotary hook. It still stitches fine and runs at
>>>>>> 1200 spm
>>>>>> default speed.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Regards,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Doug Parker
>>>>>> JTB Embroidery Services, Inc.
>>>>>> Denver, CO
>>>>>> jtbembsvcinc@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On 3/23/06 14:06, "Jeff Banks" <banksje@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> HI Douglas,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>  I think you will find it is now 4,000,000 stitches. But, I have
>>>>>>> to go
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> back
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> to my last post. If 3,900,000 of those stitches were all on one
>>>>>>> or two
>>>>>>> needles, I am gong to look long and hard at those rollers and
>>>>>>> associated
>>>>>>> mechanics. It also does not state to replace them unless
>>>>>>> needed.  It is
>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>> lubrication and cleaning, and replace if needed maintenance.
>>>>>>> Again, what
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> if
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> the 4,000,000 stitches were done with metallic thread? This is
>>>>>>> going to
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> show
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> more wear and tear on the parts. What if the 4,000,000 stitches
>>>>>>> were
>>>>>>> done
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> in
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> a 100 degree heat, in a warehouse with construction next door
>>>>>>> going on?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> All
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> the rollers may be dirty, not just the ones used for those 4
>>>>>>> million
>>>>>>> stitches.  If a particular thread feed mechanics and rollers
>>>>>>> seem to be
>>>>>>> giving a problem, (thread popping out along one side for
>>>>>>> instance), then
>>>>>>> doing the maintenance and insuring it is clean and properly
>>>>>>> lubricated
>>>>>>> is
>>>>>>> the first thing to look at, even if you just did it. The point
>>>>>>> is, more
>>>>>>> or
>>>>>>> less maintenance may need to be done depending on use and
>>>>>>> environment.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>  Jeff Banks
>>>>>>>  Melco Embroidery Systems
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>>>> From: "Douglas Parker" <jtbembsvcinc@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>>>>>> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>>>>>> Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 1:44 PM
>>>>>>> Subject: [amayausers] Re: Thread Breaks
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Rod & All,
>>>>>>>> Have been following this thread on thread tracking and new roller
>>>>>>>> lubrication. I recently (December 2005) replaced my black
>>>>>>>> rollers with
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>> the
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> new yellow rollers and the knurled pinch rollers. As you
>>>>>>>> pointed out,
>>>>>>>> it
>>>>>>>> is
>>>>>>>> difficult, following the Melco approved lubrication procedures,
>>>>>>>> to get
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>> the
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> roller down in the seat without contaminating the surface with
>>>>>>>> grease.
>>>>>>>> At the same time I replaced the rollers I upgraded my software
>>>>>>>> from
>>>>>>>> 4.02.022
>>>>>>>> to 6.08.522. There is in the 6.08.522 a lubrication procedure ( I
>>>>>>>> believe
>>>>>>>> at
>>>>>>>> 2 million stitches) that requires the removal, cleaning,
>>>>>>>> lubrication
>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>> replacement of the feed rollers and pinch rollers. I have had
>>>>>>>> to do
>>>>>>>> this
>>>>>>>> at
>>>>>>>> least one time since the initial installation.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Maybe Jeff Banks can verify this as he is a MELCO guru.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Regards,
>>>>>>>> Doug Parker
>>>>>>>> JTB Embroidery Services, Inc.
>>>>>>>> Denver, Colorado
>>>>>>>> jtbembsvcinc@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On 3/23/06 08:35, "Rod or Sharon" <springer37@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Beverly,
>>>>>>>>> The new style yellow rollers are a definite improvement over
>>>>>>>>> the black
>>>>>>>>> ones
>>>>>>>>> but they are critical to a couple of important items. The
>>>>>>>>> first is
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>> proper
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> lubrication, especially the little red pinch rollers. Both the
>>>>>>>>> red
>>>>>>>>> pinch
>>>>>>>>> rollers and the yellow thread feed rollers need to be removed
>>>>>>>>> periodically
>>>>>>>>> and cleaned . It is difficult to say just how long between
>>>>>>>>> cleanings
>>>>>>>>> one
>>>>>>>>> should wait. This would depend on how much one needle is used
>>>>>>>>> over
>>>>>>>>> another
>>>>>>>>> and the wear each individual roller system would receive. Pop
>>>>>>>>> off a
>>>>>>>>> couple
>>>>>>>>> of the more used red pinch rollers, black or white thread for
>>>>>>>>> example
>>>>>>>>> or
>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>> ones that seem to be giving you the most trouble, and look
>>>>>>>>> carefully
>>>>>>>>> at
>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>> axle hub that it rotates on. If  they appear dry  and/or you
>>>>>>>>> can see a
>>>>>>>>> red
>>>>>>>>> powder looking residue on the axle hub the red pinch roller
>>>>>>>>> rotates
>>>>>>>>> on,
>>>>>>>>> it
>>>>>>>>> is imperative that they be cleaned and lubricated.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> A good pre-sign that lubrication may be the culprit, is the
>>>>>>>>> thread
>>>>>>>>> tracking
>>>>>>>>> to the left side of the roller as you indicated in your post.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> The second thing that is critical with the new rollers is that
>>>>>>>>> if any
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>> oil
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> or
>>>>>>>>> grease gets on the surface of them, the tread will track clear
>>>>>>>>> off of
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>> the
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> left side of the rollers and cause a bird-nest. They must be kept
>>>>>>>>> clean.
>>>>>>>>> To
>>>>>>>>> clean them, take them out----both the red pinch rollers and
>>>>>>>>> yellow
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>> thread
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> feed rollers........, and wash them with warm soapy water,
>>>>>>>>> re-lubricate
>>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>>> replace them being very careful not to get any lubricating
>>>>>>>>> grease back
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>> on
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> the surface of the rollers. I always wash my hands after
>>>>>>>>> applying the
>>>>>>>>> lubricating greas e with a cotton q-tip before re-attaching
>>>>>>>>> the red
>>>>>>>>> rollers
>>>>>>>>> and inserting the yellow rollers. I apply the grease to the
>>>>>>>>> axle hub
>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>> red
>>>>>>>>> roller rotates on and the hub area in the machine that the yellow
>>>>>>>>> roller
>>>>>>>>> rotates in, I do not apply any grease direcly to the rollers
>>>>>>>>> themselves
>>>>>>>>> as
>>>>>>>>> it is very difficult not to transfer grease all over the place.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Another item worthy of mention, along this same line, is how
>>>>>>>>> long has
>>>>>>>>> it
>>>>>>>>> been since the needle bar shafts were last oiled? This too can
>>>>>>>>> create
>>>>>>>>> thread
>>>>>>>>> break problems for the same reason as above. Some needles get
>>>>>>>>> used
>>>>>>>>> more
>>>>>>>>> often than others and therefore should receive more attention
>>>>>>>>> in the
>>>>>>>>> lubrication field. How fast are you running your designs?
>>>>>>>>> Remember
>>>>>>>>> additional speed equals more friction which generates heat
>>>>>>>>> which means
>>>>>>>>> lubrication is and will be a very critical element in being
>>>>>>>>> successful
>>>>>>>>> while
>>>>>>>>> using the Amaya..
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Hope this helps
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Rod Springer
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Embroidery Cottage
>>>>>>>>> Rod & Sharon Springer
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Melco Amaya Tech & Trainer
>>>>>>>>> Design Shop Pro+ Digitizing
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Boise, ID  83713
>>>>>>>>> 208-938-3038
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>>>>>> From: "Beverly Thompson" <beverlyt@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>>>>>>>>> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>>>>>>>> Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 7:32 AM
>>>>>>>>> Subject: [amayausers] Re: Thread Breaks
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Herb,
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> thanks for the advice.  I am running anvil rib tees,  using 2
>>>>>>>>>> cutaway,
>>>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>>>> mt of 4.  It seems that alot of times when it breaks there's
>>>>>>>>>> a little
>>>>>>>>>> loop
>>>>>>>>>> of thread behind the roller wheel.  also on some of the
>>>>>>>>>> rollers it
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>> looks
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> like the yellow roller is far to the right and the thread
>>>>>>>>>> barely on
>>>>>>>>>> it.
>>>>>>>>>> Could that be a problem?
>>>>>>>>>> As far as the needles,  I always check to see if the eye is
>>>>>>>>>> straight,
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>> if
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> not
>>>>>>>>>> i make an adjustment there.  thanks for the magnifer tip,  i
>>>>>>>>>> find i
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>> have
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> trouble seeing even with my glasses.  So your saying go up to
>>>>>>>>>> 6 mt
>>>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>>>> try
>>>>>>>>>> that?
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Regards,
>>>>>>>>>> Beverly Thompson
>>>>>>>>>> Perdido Beach Embroidery
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>>>>>>> From: "HK Acree" <hkacree@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>>>>>>>>> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>>>>>>>>> Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 12:16 AM
>>>>>>>>>> Subject: [amayausers] Re: Thread Breaks
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Bev,
>>>>>>>>>>> After the change in rollers the material thickness you were
>>>>>>>>>>> used to
>>>>>>>>>>> using
>>>>>>>>>>> changes. Bump it up by 2 to begin with then check your work and
>>>>>>>>>>> adjust
>>>>>>>>>>> accordingly. You should see  far less thread breaks.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> As for your needles. Rod Springer really helped  me on this
>>>>>>>>>>> one. Get
>>>>>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>>>>>> magnifier with the light in it. Cheap at Home Depot, $2.50.
>>>>>>>>>>> Look at the groove in the needle. This represents the eye.
>>>>>>>>>>> Tweak it
>>>>>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>>>>>> hair
>>>>>>>>>>> and the needles are set.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Would appreciate some feedback on this.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Herb
>>>>>>>>>>> Royal Embroidery
>>>>>>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>>>>>>>> From: "Beverly Thompson" <beverlyt@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>>>>>>>>>>> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>>>>>>>>>> Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 5:51 PM
>>>>>>>>>>> Subject: [amayausers] Thread Breaks
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Hello Everybody,
>>>>>>>>>>>> did the roller upgrade on my machines, not the software.  i am
>>>>>>>>>>>> starting
>>>>>>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>>>>>> get thread breaks again.  some needles run good others not.  I
>>>>>>>>>>>> don't
>>>>>>>>>>>> think
>>>>>>>>>>>> it was how they were put in or anything because a tech did it.
>>>>>>>>>>>> Can someone tell me again how to clean the rollers in case its
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>> grease.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Regards,
>>>>>>>>>>>> Beverly Thompson
>>>>>>>>>>>> Perdido Beach Embroidery
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>

Other related posts: