I concur with Herb, but sometimes the program scales down and it works fine! I always run off a test pattern-since most of rescaling I do is going from shirt/back designs to hat size. (now keep in mind, the rest of my notes here are for the 'newbies', not for you experienced pros, Anand, Herb, Rod, etc-you guys already have this figured out...some of us took a little longer to 'get it'....LOL) My custom logo work is the bulk of it(which usually does scale fine since I don't have tons of extra detail), but there have been many designs from the Dakota collection where I'm taking artwork and working with that. Since none of that was digitized 'for' Amaya, or with Design shop-all your fills, underlayment, etc. is separate. Design shop has the nice feature of grabbing a fill area and designating the underlayment as 'part' of that item. All your tie-in and tie-offs are separate stitches also, same with jump stitches, etc. I know-this is the 'standard' for digitizing....but I find if I just grab the 'main area fills' and delete everything else-then I can start from almost 'scratch' and add what I want for underlayment, change fills, column sizing, etc. and also get rid of all the 'excess' stitches. My average has been 15-30% fewer stitches by doing this 'cleanout' and then I have fewer problems with scaling down. Larger designs tend to have lots of 'outlines', main areas have satin stitch edges, texture and details with a logo or design will have 'walk stitches' or single line stitches in another color to emphasize detail, shading, etc. When you shrink this down-most of this has to 'go'. Design shop won't remove this. Simply put-if you have an oval 6" x 10" for a back design, a total fill may be 65,000 stitches. Shrink that oval to 3" x 5", and you may have only 'room' for 15,000 stitches. So Designshop will delete the extra stitches. Same fill pattern, but smaller area to fill. BUT, all your texture, detail lines, outlines-they don't get deleted. So you have to decide which details just won't be visible when shrunk down. Sometimes it can be hard to decide what to throw away-but remember, you cannot make the thread itself any smaller...so all those nice 'shade lines' on the mascot face look great on a 10" logo-lines may be 1/4" apart to give you shading or 3- d look. Shrink that design down, and you may STILL be trying to sew 30 lines of shading but now in 2" of space, not 10". This is where you start to learn why you should have paid attention in art class in school! My 'talent' to clean this up isn't from art classes-it is from 15 years of converting multi color images to straight vector line 'objects' for solid color vinyl cutting or screen printing before I switched to photoscreens! So I can 'see' what should be deleted. Just wish I DID have some real artwork talent to design this stuff from the beginning! So there isn't a 'magic' program to do this instantly...sometimes it works...most of the time be prepared to sewout several proofs and spend time redigitizing. And remember, every time you sew a proof, it is no different than sewing the final design-you either have to include it in the fee, or 'give your time away'. =========================================================== The AmayaUsers Mailing List Website: http://www.amayausers.com Discussion Board: http://www.amayausers.com/boards Subscribe/Unsubscribe: http://www.amayausers.com/list ===========================================================