[amayausers] Re: Hoop - Hooping Question
- From: "Edna Khalifeh" <ednakhalifeh@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2006 14:36:02 -0500
Terri, is your stabilizer completely hooped? The knit will give as needed so
the fusible mesh needs to cover the entire area that is hooped. I found that
2 layers of fusible mesh was too thick and became stiff for the polo shirts
I was embroidering. Many meshes are multi-directional which means there is
no grain or direction, so the mesh layers in opposing directions would not
make a difference. Unless the one I use is different than the one others are
using? I keep a roll of Firm Hold (iron-on similar to freezer paper but
specifically for embroidery) on hand for jobs like this. It will keep the
knit "immoveable" within the hoop; prevent it from lifting as the needle
comes out of the fabric and tears away cleanly with no residue on your
fabric. You could use one layer of the fusible mesh directly on the fabric,
then apply the Firm Hold. When you're done, tear the FH away and trim your
mesh. And make sure the presser foot doesn't touch the fabric which can
cause "drag", therefore stretching the knit. What about solvy on the top?
Just another take from a non-expert.
Edna Khalifeh
www.etchedinthread.com
This time I used 2 layers of the fusible mesh, 15 cm hoop, keyboard
lettering (Cooper, .28 height, upper & lower case letters, 4.5 density, no
underlay, 130% pull comp, no short stitches, stitch length 20 pt.; pressure
foot all the way down, auto actifeed) It sewed just fine, however, before
unhooping, checked the tautness - much too loose. The fabric is not pushing
on the stabilizer as it sews. It's both the material and stabilizer since
they are adhered to one another that is becoming flexible as it sews.
Have another question, does one always have to make the fabric and
stabilizer as thick as I just did?
Terri
Embroidery Creations
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