[amayausers] Re: A class on Sewing Caps

Ed, Just do the book in volumes.

Russell

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E. Orantes" <e3m@xxxxxxx>
To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 2:34 PM
Subject: [amayausers] Re: A class on Sewing Caps


> Russel,
> You're too kind, although the thought has crossed my mind.  I keep 
> thinking,
> "supply and demand"...
> Not to mention, there's so much about the Amaya system I have yet to 
> learn.
> You know the old saying, I learn something new every day.
> I'll talk with my publicist.
> Just kidding.
> Ed
>
> Ed & Maralien Orantes
> E.M. Broidery
> 900 Terry Parkway, Ste. 200
> New Orleans, La. 70056
> 504-EMBROID ery (504-362-7643)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Russell Silva
> Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 2:56 PM
> To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [amayausers] Re: A class on Sewing Caps
>
>
> Ed,
>
>    Maybe you should write a book for Amaya owners.
>
> Russell
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "E. Orantes" <e3m@xxxxxxx>
> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 3:08 PM
> Subject: [amayausers] Re: A class on Sewing Caps
>
>
>> You know I was thinking the same thing.  Long winded I mean.. I guess
>> taking
>> that typing class in High School has paid off?
>> Maybe I should consider sales?  I think I own a tie.
>> Ed
>>
>>
>> Ed & Maralien Orantes
>> E.M. Broidery
>> 900 Terry Parkway, Ste. 200
>> New Orleans, La. 70056
>> 504-EMBROID ery (504-362-7643)
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> [mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Linen Barn
>> Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 1:41 PM
>> To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> Subject: [amayausers] Re: A class on Sewing Caps
>>
>>
>> Thats it Ed?  Kinda short winded today aren't you :)
>>
>> P.S.  Just in case anyone takes that the wrong way I am just playing with
>> Ed.  I just wish I could put my thoughts into words on the computer as
>> well
>> as he does.
>>
>> Aaron Sargent
>> The Linen Barn
>> linen@xxxxxxxxxxx
>> Medford, Oregon
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "E. Orantes" <e3m@xxxxxxx>
>> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 11:21 AM
>> Subject: [amayausers] Re: A class on Sewing Caps
>>
>>
>>> Jimbo and all others,
>>> (Oh no, here goes Ed again..)
>>> As a tech, trainer, and an operator of the Amaya, I'll share what I know
>>> about caps...
>>> You must be good with your hands (dexterity) for hooping and have a good
>>> understanding of what the fabric is doing while the machine is 
>>> stitching.
>>> What I mean is in all dimensions, "X" left to right, "Y" forward and
>>> back,
>>> and "Z" up and down.
>>> I believe your thread breaks are being caused by flagging in the fabric.
>>> But that's just a guess.
>>>
>>>
>>> Basics on hats: (Let it be said there's no substitute for training in
>>> person.)
>>> For the front of the cap..
>>> Design must be upside down
>>> WACF- wide angle cap frame hoop chosen in software
>>> presser foot raised to it's highest setting- only to be re-adjusted 
>>> again
>>> before sewing cap
>>> Material Thickness set to 8 or 10 and don't be afraid to go higher.
>>> Bobbin detect turned off
>>> Bobbin tension a little firmer than with flats for a structured cap-
>>> buckram
>>> doesn't allow the thread to slide as easily through fabric. 
>>> Unstructured
>>> caps (like the soft "GAP Store" style) can be sewn with regular bobbin
>>> tension.
>>> All screws attaching WACF to machine should be snug
>>> Change needle plate (throat plate) to the raised needle plate- necessary
>>> when using the WACF mechanism- DEFINITELY check needle centering here as
>>> you won't be able to see what's happening when the cap is on the 
>>> machine.
>>> Depending on size of cap, design cannot be larger than approximately 
>>> 2.25
>>> inches.  A trucker cap might allow for more height but a youth cap may
>>> require you to go smaller.
>>> Machine speed not to exceed around 850.  Sure the machine can go fast 
>>> but
>>> can the fabric keep up?  Read on...
>>> Sharp needles- preferably 80/12s but 75/11s work okay too.
>>>
>>> Hooping the Cap:
>>> If you are only doing the front of the cap, focus only on the front of
>>> the
>>> cap.  If you are going to sew on the sides of the cap, only focus on the
>>> sides.  Forget about that fancy feature of sewing 270 degrees around cap
>>> with one hooping.  At least not until you know what you are doing. 
>>> For
>>> the front of the cap, don't focus on getting the sides of the cap snug
>>> around the hooping gauge (large silver hooping device that looks like a
>>> coffee can) rather, make sure that the face of the cap is parallel to 
>>> the
>>> floor, or more specifically the needle plate.  If that means that the 
>>> cap
>>> looks like it's cock-eyed in the cap frame, that's fine as long as the
>>> sewing area is held firm and flat to the needle plate.    A flat garment
>>> rides the surface of the needle plate at all points of the hoop.
>>> Sometimes
>>> improper hooping can cause the inside of the cap to touch the needle
>>> plate
>>> at the top of the cap (good) and not touch the needle plate near the 
>>> bill
>>> of
>>> the cap (not good).  Depending on the shape/cut of the bill this may be
>>> harder for some.  Some folks use their muscles to forcibly reshape the
>>> bill
>>> to what they want it to be for sewing and after they're done, simply
>>> shape
>>> the bill back to normal with their hands.  You'd be surprised how easily
>>> that cheap cardboard returns to it's original shape.
>>> You must understand that when sewing flats, the garment is held taught 
>>> on
>>> all sides by the hoop.  Not so with the WACF.  The WACF only holds the
>>> fabric, (notice I refer to the cap as fabric!!) on the upper side (or
>>> lower
>>> side depending on how you're looking at it).  Sure you use those silly
>>> binder clips on the sides but that's not enough.  They only serve the
>>> purpose of taking up slack in the sides of the cap.
>>> Hence, you must make sure that the fabric is good and tight around the
>>> cap
>>> frame because that metal band combined with the fact the cap is curved
>>> will
>>> be what keeps flagging to a minimum.  Unless you step up to backing.
>>> A structured cap will add stability to the fabric because of it's
>>> stiffness.  An unstructured cap will require some tear away backing.
>>> Here
>>> you will want to use some spray adhesive or have some underlay stitches
>>> put
>>> in the beginning of the design to         tiethefabrictothebacking.Make
>>> sure
>>> the backing is in fact part of what's hooped and that it is sandwiched
>>> between the cap's sweatband and the cap frame.  Here again, you're 
>>> trying
>>> to
>>> add stability to the fabric.
>>> Designs with fills and long columns should be digitized to run from
>>> center
>>> out.  Reason being that the fabric will move on you as it's being sewn
>>> since
>>> it's not as stable as in a flat hoop.  For example, if you aren't happy
>>> with
>>> a stitching's density and have the bright idea to sew over an area 
>>> again,
>>> be
>>> sure to do it right away because if you wait for the design to end and
>>> come
>>> back to it later, the additional stitches in the design will be certain
>>> to
>>> move the fabric in one direction or another so that the registration for
>>> the
>>> beginning of the design will           notbethesameasitwasthefirsttime.
>>> Yes,
>>> been there, done that.
>>> *Note: This is why it's important to tell your digitizer what type of
>>> fabric you're stitching on so that he or she can take the appropriate
>>> measures.
>>>
>>> Before you sew, with the cap frame and cap on the machine, be sure to
>>> adjust your presser foot height.  Some structured caps will run with the
>>> presser foot all the way up.  Other unstructured style caps will require
>>> you
>>> to lower it a bit.  But realize that with the raised needle plate, you
>>> cannot run the machine with the presser foot all the way down without
>>> making
>>> a loud hammering sound and peltering the fabric with the presser foot.
>>> The
>>> bottom of the presser foot should be a hair above the top of the fabric
>>> at
>>> all times - no matter what fabric you are sewing on or what machine you
>>> are
>>> using.
>>>
>>> When it comes to positioning the design, center the design LEFT TO RIGHT
>>> by
>>> referencing the center seem on the cap (6 panel cap) using the laser
>>> beam.
>>> However, the laser beam is focused on where the regular needle plate 
>>> hole
>>> would be and since the light comes down at an angle from the right side,
>>> the
>>> higher you come up from the focus point, the more the laser beam will
>>> appear
>>> to be to the right of where center is.  Therefore, use a pair of 
>>> tweezers
>>> (I
>>> use my fingers) to hold the fabric down to the point at which it touches
>>> the
>>> needle plate.  While holding the fabric down, move the cap accordingly
>>> using
>>> the jog buttons to center the laser beam.  If you really need to get
>>> specific, simply do a presser foot check by clicking on "bottom center"
>>> under the "Maintenance", "Head Timing" tab and this will bring the 
>>> needle
>>> down through the fabric at a point we can call "center".
>>> When centering the design FRONT TO BACK, one must pay attention to two
>>> areas: the metal band strapped just above the bill and also the very top
>>> of
>>> the cap.    You should stay about 1/2" above the metal band so that the
>>> needle clears not only the metal band on the surface but also the cap
>>> frame
>>> and it's metal teeth underneath the fabric.  Some folks choose to go
>>> higher
>>> and some play it dangerously and move closer to the bill.  This is of
>>> course
>>> depending on how you hooped your cap.  Remember that at the bill, 
>>> because
>>> of
>>> the cap frame teeth and such, the cap fabric is not low enough to touch
>>> the
>>> needle plate.  Hence the closer you get to the bill, you are now sewing
>>> on
>>> fabric that is on a sharp angle which can push the presser foot into the
>>> back of the needle causing the needle to hit the needle plate and break.
>>> You can also bend the presser foot damaging it.  Play it safe and don't
>>> try
>>> to get too close to the cap bill until you know what you are doing.
>>> As for the top of the cap, as you do a design trace, focus on how much
>>> pressure is put on the underside of the cap by the front of the needle
>>> plate.  Although the design may look like it's traces just fine, the
>>> needle
>>> plate might be getting in the way of allowing the fabric free movement
>>> during the upper portion of the design resulting in poor sew quality and
>>> messing up the rest of the design registration.  What's happening here 
>>> is
>>> the cap is trying to move WITH the pantograph but it is being hindered 
>>> by
>>> an
>>> obstruction (needle plate) and ultimately the cap is moving within the
>>> cap
>>> frame which is what you are trying to avoid by hooping the cap tight.
>>> Make sure you have installed the smaller of the two sets of cap supports
>>> (look like silver shoulder pads over the needle plate) on your cap 
>>> frames
>>> and that you aren't trying to sew too high for the style of cap you are
>>> sewing on.  A higher profile cap will allow you to sew higher than a low
>>> profile (more popular) cap.  Let's face it, some designs will have to be
>>> sized smaller depending on what style cap you are running.  Remember,
>>> "can't
>>> please all the people all the time"...
>>> If you have more than one Amaya, do not mix and match cap frame drivers
>>> between machines.  Each cap frame driver has been tailored to fit one
>>> machine at the factory.  Theoretically they should be the same but you
>>> know
>>> how that goes- nothing's perfect in this world.
>>> A few final notes:  Always order a couple extra caps per run to practice
>>> on
>>> until you get to a point at which you know what you are doing.  While
>>> she's
>>> running make sure the bill isn't rubbing against the underside of the
>>> needle
>>> case as you sew closer to the bill.  Sewing over the folded center seem
>>> will
>>> always be a problem for the Amaya as the material thickness practically
>>> doubles but only for a few stitches until it crosses over to the next
>>> panel.
>>> Here is where you should educate yourself on the feature called 
>>> "Settings
>>> by
>>> color".  Or sit by the PC as the machine sews and raise the material
>>> thickness up and down in those areas at the appropriate times.  If you 
>>> do
>>> a
>>> lot of caps, the buckram fall out in the rotary hook area can be 
>>> abrasive
>>> over time so keep this area clean and lubricate the rotary hook often.
>>> Check your bobbin between caps as the bobbin detect feature is turned
>>> off.
>>> Changing from one style or model cap to another on the cap frame may
>>> require
>>> you to make wing nut adjustments accordingly to make sure that the cap
>>> you're sewing on is snug/tight under the metal strap on the cap frame.
>>> This
>>> can be a pain as those wing nuts can sometimes require pliers.  Some
>>> folks
>>> have found success using the CCF, conventional cap frame, as opposed to
>>> the
>>> WACF, wide angle cap frame, to only do the front of caps.  It's a $250
>>> per
>>> frame option but definitely holds the fabric on all four sides since
>>> there's
>>> a rectangular window for sewing.  Might be an option if all you do is 
>>> cap
>>> fronts, but be sure to get the correct size CCF for your machine.
>>> If I can think of anything else I may have forgotten along the way, I'll
>>> add it later.
>>> Sure hope this helps some of you.  I hate giving away my secrets so keep
>>> this information to yourselves.  Okay?
>>>
>>> Ed Orantes
>>> Amaya Tech, Trainer & Owner
>>> New Orleans, La.
>>> 504-258-6260
>>> emservice@xxxxxxx
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>> [mailto:amayausers-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of
>>> ImpressingPromo@xxxxxxx
>>> Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2005 11:46 PM
>>> To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>> Subject: [amayausers] Help Sewing Caps
>>>
>>>
>>> I need some desperate advise on how to sew caps on the AMAYA.  We have
>>> had
>>> our machine for about a month and a half.  We have figured out the 
>>> sewing
>>> flats
>>> but these cap techniques are really tripping us up.  I have tried all of
>>> the
>>> steps in the manual but am still having problems.  I load a design that 
>>> I
>>> know
>>> works for hats and get about 10 stitches per thread break.  We have
>>> adjusted
>>> the presser foot, speed, MT and cleaned the bobbin case. Any advise of
>>> what
>>> I
>>> am possibly doing wrong?
>>> Thank you,
>>>
>>> Jimbo Childs
>>> Impressing Promotions, LLC
>>> 2575 Campus Drive
>>> Suite 341
>>> Klamath Falls, OR 97601
>>> (541) 891-5748  Cell
>>> (541) 273-5798  Office/Fax
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>

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